cycledogg

I would like to second this suggestion. I have a set of SSC from 2004 and they still run smooth as the day I bought them. I use plain mineral oil purchased from the pharmacy at my local drug store. It is ubber cheap and works as described. Since there are only 2 pawls in the hub, they need to move as free as possiable and other oils as said may not let them do so. Use your own judgment for any other lube.

bobn

What is it in Mavic, Pedro's and Phil's that sets them apart?
Do they have their own refineries so their oils will be extra special? They don't make the oil, where do they get it from?
I think, just my opinion, that all this B S about oils is just that. BS.
3 in 1 is recommended for sewing machines fishing reels bicycles and other delicate machinery.
Automotive oils in the right viscosity don't gunk up your engine, why would they gunk up your bike?
Ask the old timers what they lubed their bikes with 40-50-60 years ago before all this speciality BS started.
If it makes you feel good to spend $$ on a couple of ounces of oil go ahead.
My opinion after 60 years BS BS BS

FBinNY 

Oil is oil, just like beer is beer, and tomato sauce is tomato sauce.

The oil itself comes in a variety of a viscosities and film strengths, but the biggest differences are the additives. These include, a variety of detergents, tacking agents, anti-oxidents, acid neutralizers, and others to increase film strength, manage viscosity at high or low temps, and lastly, especially with many of the chain lubes sold for bike chains solvents to clean the chain and/or as vehicles to wick the lube in faster.

Of concern for Mavic, is that the oil is thin enough not to make the spring action of the pawls sluggish, but possibly of greater concern is that various additives might react with or damage O-rings and seals.

So yes, there's great latitude about what oil you can use, but there's great limitations also. Since nobody can list all the products you cannot use, they play it safe and list a few that you can.

It's ironic that people used to complain that there isn't enough documentation or warnings about potential problems, then when a manufacturer does the right thing and lists recommendations, people say "WTF, they're just trying to sell us their overpriced stuff, use anything you want"

phillman5

Good suggestions here, I am going try a can of sewing machine oil, it says "A high grade, light machine oil made of vacuum distilled mineral oils. Guaranteed free from vegetable oils. . . . It will not gum or clog . . ."

I watched a few youtube videos, they seemed to recommend Shimano hydrolic brake mineral oil. One guy said that a Mavic rep recommended it too him. Only bike shop open now (8 pm) is REI, they didn't have that, the bike mechanic said he wouldn't recommend that and I should bring my wheel down for him to examine. Why? Its doing exactly what those videos stated and I need to lubercate the free hub! I enjoy doing my own work, and often do a more caring job than some pipple faced 20 year old. Sometimes I screw it up, that's learning, but I have most of the tools. With all the videos out now for DIYs, its kind of a no brainer to DIY unless you don't have the time.

As far as FBinNY says, "beer is beer", I totally disagree. There are many types of beer: Stout, Ale, IPA, Pilsner, etc.

And I can't believe people chewing out someone for adding to a thread that as gone doormat. I had some one give me a hard time on a SpeedPlay pedal maintenance thread that had gone doormat. At least we searched first before just starting a new thread. I think replying to old threads is much better than starting a new thread!

FBinNY 

I doubt you'd disagree if you read or quoted the entire post. It was a response to someone who didn't see any difference, (see post above mine) and here's what followed:

The oil itself comes in a variety of a viscosities and film strengths, but the biggest differences are the additives. These include, a variety of detergents, tacking agents, anti-oxidents, acid neutralizers, and others to increase film strength, manage viscosity at high or low temps, and lastly, especially with many of the chain lubes sold for bike chains solvents to clean the chain and/or as vehicles to wick the lube in faster.

I used the beer and tomato sauce analogy in an ironic way, expecting that folks who have any knowledge of either know that the opposite is true. I'm not saying that it's all the same, but instead using the analogy to show that though things can be very similar, they can be very different at the same time. As I've said countless times here "the devil is in the details"

phillman5

Yes I have to agree, I just didn't put it all to together after reading the second part, and the person you quoted, that the one sentence was being sarcastic.

My apologies.

FBinNY 

Apology not accepted, because none was due.

gsa103

Bicycle oils are manufactured by the same people who make automotive fluids. Many people report that Shimano mineral oil is very close to Pentosin power steering fluid, of course, that stuff isn't cheap either.

The reality is that bike fluids probably have a slightly different mix of additives, but it will be small variations from a more common automotive R&D base. 99% of the time it won't matter, except in extreme conditions.

MePoocho

Any drug store carries Mineral Oil and it is cheap. I always keep some on hand for cutting blocks in the kitchen and many other uses not to mention a teaspoon keeps 'things moving' in a body...... heh, heh.

phillman5

Well so far so good using the sewing machine oil I mentioned. But the main reason for this post is my though amazement at the small pawls that are near the center of the wheel, and they drive the wheel which has a vast mechanical advantage over the pawl. The teeth in the freehub that the pawls catch are but a mm or so high. I've ridden up 30% grades, only a short length, in a 34/27, I am about 210 (95 kg). The stress on these pawls and teeth must be tremendous.

I'd also like to tell anyone planning to attemp this lubercation my pawls pretty much stuck in thier location and the pawls have a pin to hold the tiny springs with a sort of T shaped end that keeps the springs from flying off. On reassembling you need to make sure the other end of the spring gets into the hole to hold them.

Kimmo 

There's your problem. Mavic hubs are rubbish.

Wanderer

When it comes to oil, Francis knows of what he speaks....... MHO

phillman5

From my limited experience I would have to agree. My Campy 11 speed hub is way older and I have not had to touch it, one year on this Mavic hub and its screaming bloody murder.

Who is Francis? I don't see him in the thread. Am I missing a joke?

Kind of misplaced in this thread.

Wanderer

FBinNY

caloso

Philman knows not Marx nor Murray.

AlanKHG

So how's Chain-L for this job? Seems pretty similar in concept to Phil's tenacious.

(Also, I have 6 bikes and am still on the same bottle after the better part of a decade.)