Zer0K00LRADACAL

Preface:
I picked up this beautiful steed, for just under $200 and for me, it's perfect. However, I have experienced a slight problem: Sometimes, when I'm going uphill, with a strong cadence, the gear "slips" and it completely throws me off (quite annoying to say the least).

I would like to remedy the problem, as well as, slightly modify my machine, with a mix of new components and original parts. For the original parts, I have compiled a list and will order accordingly.

For the newer components, I need some help in identifying the brand, model and compatibility. As well, any suggested upgrades, are quite welcome.

Furthermore, I plan to repaint my machine (properly, might I add). However, this would be a separate project, as current reading suggests, a demanding feat, that utilizes non-consumer tools; requiring some degree of finesse. I will also need some guidance during this time.

On to the bike...

Machine: Bridgestone
Model: Radac- RD 530 (Aluminum Hybrid Frame)
Gear: 12 speed
--------------
Current Parts/Setup:

1.Crank Set: Sakae SR crank 165 mm bicycle (2 × 6 speed). Crank length is 165 mm. Number of teeth is 52 and 42.
2.Rear & Front Hub: Sansin 5345 DK Japan
3.Front derailleur: Suntour 4050
4.Rear derailleur: Suntour accushift 4050
-Cable Attachment Bolt Size: 5mm Allen Key
-Cable Adjuster Yes
-Max Cog Size 24
-Attachment Bolt Size: 5mm Allen Key
-Shifting Systems: SunTour AccuShift Friction
NOTE-(One of the 6sp Accushift derailleurs produced by SunTour during their race
to catch up with Shimano in the indexed shifting race. Mid-to-Upper-range
derailleur in their sport/rec offerings lineup. SunTour recommended
a max cog size of 24t when using it in indexed mode, but will easily
handle up to 28t in a friction shifting setup.)
5.Front and Rear Brakes: Dia Compe
6.Skewers: Sansin
7.Spoke protector: Shimano CP-R540
8.Tires:700x28C (28-622)
9.Wheels:unknown
10.Bars: Sakae CT bars
11.Stem: Sakae Custom Stem
---------
I have attached some pictures for reference (I have many more pictures, that I want to post but I hit the attachment limit)

Regarding the last picture, labeled, "Outline reference only". What I would like to do, is upgrade my bike, with 2 of the components from this bicycle.

First, I need to know the brand and model of these parts and second, if they will be compatible with my model.

1. Crankset, name and model?
2. Saddle, name and model?

*Outline reference finished---------------

Continuing with the last component:

Wheels, I would like to use the: H Plus Son SL42 or the 666 fluid discs ...Would these fit on my bike? If not, is there any way that I can adjust them or the gear setup, to make them fit? (Keep in mind, I do not want a fixed gear setup and would prefer to keep my 12 speed if possible).

Also, I have seen the SL42's, in a friction setup here: Battaglin Road Bike - Pedal Room (I guess my question is, how can I set this up with my bike? What are the steps?)

Closing words
Any guidance is greatly appreciated and I sincerely thank you, for taking the time to read.

-ZK

RobbieTunes

I have what may be a Radac on the way, so we'll see if I have any suggestions.

plonz 

So you're a member in a vintage bike-of-the-month club or something? You pay your monthly fee and wait to see what they ship you

To OP: you'll need a better pic to ID that saddle and crankset. If I were to guess, I'd say the crank is FSA. With the right bottom bracket, a modern crankset like FSA should work with your Radac. You may run into a problem using the more narrow-space chainrings of a modern crankset with the 6 speed setup it sounds like you intend to keep. The chainrings will require a more narrow chain and not sure if that will play nice with your 6 speed cog set.

The h plus son rims you want to use should work fine. Rims do not generally discriminate; that's the job of the hub. You just need to make sure the spoke holes of the rim match the hub.

BTW, the Battaglin you linked to is gorgeous.

gugie 

[QUOTE=Zer0K00LRADACAL;17954879]Preface:
I picked up this beautiful steed, for just under $200 and for me, it's perfect. However, I have experienced a slight problem: Sometimes, when I'm going uphill, with a strong cadence, the gear "slips" and it completely throws me off (quite annoying to say the least).

I would like to remedy the problem, as well as, slightly modify my machine, with a mix of new components and original parts. For the original parts, I have compiled a list and will order accordingly.

For the newer components, I need some help in identifying the brand, model and compatibility. As well, any suggested upgrades, are quite welcome.

Furthermore, I plan to repaint my machine (properly, might I add). However, this would be a separate project, as current reading suggests, a demanding feat, that utilizes non-consumer tools; requiring some degree of finesse. I will also need some guidance during this time.

On to the bike...

Machine: Bridgestone
Model: Radac- RD 530 (Aluminum Hybrid Frame)
Gear: 12 speed
--------------
Current Parts/Setup:

1.Crank Set: Sakae SR crank 165 mm bicycle (2 × 6 speed). Crank length is 165 mm. Number of teeth is 52 and 42.
2.Rear & Front Hub: Sansin 5345 DK Japan
3.Front derailleur: Suntour 4050
4.Rear derailleur: Suntour accushift 4050
-Cable Attachment Bolt Size: 5mm Allen Key
-Cable Adjuster Yes
-Max Cog Size 24
-Attachment Bolt Size: 5mm Allen Key
-Shifting Systems: SunTour AccuShift Friction
NOTE-(One of the 6sp Accushift derailleurs produced by SunTour during their race
to catch up with Shimano in the indexed shifting race. Mid-to-Upper-range
derailleur in their sport/rec offerings lineup. SunTour recommended
a max cog size of 24t when using it in indexed mode, but will easily
handle up to 28t in a friction shifting setup.)
5.Front and Rear Brakes: Dia Compe
6.Skewers: Sansin
7.Spoke protector: Shimano CP-R540
8.Tires:700x28C (28-622)
9.Wheels:unknown
10.Bars: Sakae CT bars
11.Stem: Sakae Custom Stem
---------
I have attached some pictures for reference (I have many more pictures, that I want to post but I hit the attachment limit)

Regarding the last picture, labeled, "Outline reference only". What I would like to do, is upgrade my bike, with 2 of the components from this bicycle.

First, I need to know the brand and model of these parts and second, if they will be compatible with my model.

1. Crankset, name and model?
2. Saddle, name and model?

*Outline reference finished---------------

Continuing with the last component:

Wheels, I would like to use the: H Plus Son SL42 or the 666 fluid discs ...Would these fit on my bike? If not, is there any way that I can adjust them or the gear setup, to make them fit? (Keep in mind, I do not want a fixed gear setup and would prefer to keep my 12 speed if possible).

Also, I have seen the SL42's, in a friction setup here: Battaglin Road Bike - Pedal Room (I guess my question is, how can I set this up with my bike? What are the steps?)

Closing words
Any guidance is greatly appreciated and I sincerely thank you, for taking the time to read.

-ZK

UOTE]



バイクフォーラムへようこそ！
Your frame is aluminum, but not a "hybrid" frame as we think of in America. I would not paint it, the aluminum will not rust!
As far as shifting goes, I owned a RADAC frame in the 1980's, and did not have this problem. Sometimes a very flexible frame can "autoshift" when pushing very hard. My best guess is that your shift levers are too loose, and need to be tightened.
For wheels, any 700c wheel will work fine. The distance between the rear dropouts is 126mm. Any 700c wheels with a 126mm width hub will work.

kunsunoke 

I have a RADAC myself. They have surprisingly good rides for aluminum bikes.

My recommendations:

1) The problem in low gear has to do with the cogs on the freewheel. Time to replace it, the chain and probably the chainrings, but definitely the chain and freewheel.
2) Putting a new "fat" crankset on that bike is inappropriate. Keep the ones you have, but swap out the bottom bracket for a cartridge type - or just swap out the spindle for a bolted model.
3) Deep-V type modern wheels aren't great for this bike. New wheels will require at least 130mm drop-out spacing. I'd stick with what you have.
4) Your best seat choice for that bike will be Selle San Marco Rolls or Avocet Racing 1. The Rolls is the best choice, particularly if you can get one with titanium rails.

RobbieTunes

Now there's an idea with merit, and a whole slew of explanations/rationalizations already built in.



Hmm.

If you two don't mind, I'll consult you for advice? The frame set in question has not arrived, but it's going to be a blank canvas.
I don't want to hijack this thread, but I think any advice given may well dovetail with Zer0KOOLRADACAL's requests.

If not, tell me, and I'll consult in PM's.

At present, I have a limited parts bin:
3x8 Campy Avanti Ergos
8-sp Miche/Rigida wheelset-silver
8-sp Campy Avanti FD (triple), RD (long cage) and calipers, all polished.
Triple Ofmega Vantage crankset (52/42/30) that I'd prefer not to use.

or

10-sp only Fulcrum 7's and no other matching components

or

6/7-sp Maillard/Matrix Titan (nearly black-anodized traditional eyeletted) wheels an a 7-sp 105 RD.

Colors are wide open, as it's a definite repaint. I have seen the pics of the frames in custom paint, no paint at all, and OEM. OEM is out, not paying for that kind of situation. Haven't seen the decals anywhere, and don't feel like designing them if I could. I've considered a two-color scheme, tubing vs. lugs and crown and dropouts, etc.

Seatpost is going to be odd if it doesn't come with one, like 25.0?

I am not averse to modern stuff at all. From what I understand, it's a pretty light frame, and a C&V lightweight to go with my Carbon-R would not be a bad idea. I've not had an aluminum bike of that age in a long time. I have considered a modern compact crankset with that long cage Campy rear and a wide-range 8-sp Shimano cassette + Wheelf Mfg 8-sp Campy spacers. It could be a 50/34, 12-30 climber, on modern wheels, using the Campy Ergos, FD, RD.

What sayeth youse?

gugie 

Seatpost is 25.8. I didn't remember, but St. Sheldon sez it is, so whos' to argue.

I'm pretty sure you're stuck with 7 speed because of the spacing. Aluminum doesn't like to be cold set. I had a Shimano 600 group on it, 28 spoked wheels, and elephant IUD handlebars as my tri-bike.

Paint it watever you want, as long as you don't powder coat it. I'm not sure how the aluminum and/or lugs would take the temperature.

Salamandrine 

I remember putting a couple RADACs together back when they were new. I kinda see it as a vintage weight weenie bike, basically Japan's answer to Alan and Vitus. I'd go for light Japanese components, and a basic Godzilla sci fi look, maybe multi colored anodized parts. Dia compe still makes a bunch for them. That was the hip thing in 1989 or so.

For paint, how about just polish it up and clear coat it?

kunsunoke 

It's a Japanese bike. I'd save the I-tey parts for another build, personally. Grant had them spec'd in with 105 one year, as I recall.

The Matrix rims will do in a pinch, but you will eventually want to swap out the Maillard hubs for 105 cartridge types, which will be stronger.

I have Dura-Ace cassette hubs on Campagnolo tubular rims - which improves the ride further. The crankset is Sugino XD - not period correct, but it does permit use of 110bcd rings.

25.8 is the correct seatpost size.

Zer0K00LRADACAL

Thanks for everyone who took their time to reply, I truly appreciate it. I still have the Radac but now, I also have a vintage 1987 Kestrel 4000 ^ _ ^ (which by the way, I am now listing)

Kozeemoto

For future reference: The RD530 (and 570?) were not imported in the US, at least the catalogs that Sheldon has published didn't include them. The marking as aluminum hybrid should be interpreted as aluminum main triangle steel rear and steel fork. So the comment about spreading the rear drops out doesn't apply to this. This was like a steel ultralight, behaving like a steel bike with less weight.
The 2000/3000 models were all aluminum. I think the bottom bracket lug may have been steel, as also the steerer tube on aluminum forks.
There was also a rare carbon hybrid variation with 3 carbon tubes.

I wish RadacAL had published the progress of his rebuild, if he is still visiting the forum.

RobbieTunes

Don't know about RadacAL, but I finished mine, a RADAC 3000.

I polished it down to the tubes, then polished the joints as well. Due to a problem, I did paint the the HT and the BB shell black, where it tended to disappear, anyway.

Built it up, spare parts. Sharp eyes will note the "Box of Crap" frame label.

Then, transportation snapped the RD hangar. I filed and sanded the remaining nub to look like a Cannondale rear nub, bought a two-sided Cannodale RD hanger, drilled the holes and mounted it. Worked just fine, the nub convinced it was carbon....

Met a lady in REI who knew @Otto Rax. Her name was Rachel, and she remembered him fondly, as did I. She needed a road bike. I gave her the RADAC. No guarantee it would last 5 minutes or 5 years, but she rode away on it, laughing. Made my day, and Bryan's, too, when I told him.

Kozeemoto

I don't know Otto or Rachel or Bryan, does it matter?

Nice work you did pushing the Radac to the next century. One question, do you remember having a problem finding a seat tube to match? I hear they were all 25.8 which is an odd size. Since your had some print on it I can't imagine you sanded one down to the right size.

Just on the top and its lugs Radacs seem to have 4 variations, yours classic top, and 3 internal variations (or is it more). There is one where cable enters from the right exits on the right and meets reverse (to usual) caliber with cable connecting on the right. There is the left left variation, more common with other bikes like Vitus, and then there is the entry right exit left variation.

Other variations are on rear drops, slots or vertical.
There is the RD5** variation of radacs with steel rear triangle and steel 60s looking fork.
The one with the steel seat stays they were mounted by the seat post bolt. So tension on the bolt ultimately had some effect on the stiffness of the rear.
Then there was a 3000/3100 Radac with 3 carbon tubes bonded on the aluminum lugs.
It seems to have first appeared in 1986 and in the US it vanished from the Bridgestone catalog after 1991, in other sources it is called that lasted till 1992 and in Japan there are some owners saying they had 1993 and 1994 models. The US only got the complete aluminum Radacs, the hybrids seem to have stayed in Japan and UK mostly.

Very confusing and undocumented model.

RobbieTunes

I'm pretty sure I had to buy that UNO 25.8 seat post from eFray.

Kozeemoto

Seat tubes were 25.8

The RD530/RD570 models were hybrids, meaning the central triangle and top lugs were aluminum like all other Radacs, the rear stays, dropouts, bb lug, and fork were steel. So you can spread the rear just like any other steel bike. The rear stays attached to the seat lug through a seat bolt that went through the three pieces.

The 2000/3000... models were all aluminum, slightly lighter and slightly harsher.

BentongR

Do you happen to have information on Radac RD-570A. I couldn't find anything exactly the same in the internet, not even in sheldon's colection of catalogue. This one seem to really have flat bar instead of drop bar. It also doesn't have downtube shifter.