andreakane

A couple of my spokes broke on my rearwheel after some corrosive liquid dripped on it while storing it in my condo's storage space. I had laced these wheels myself when I built my Soma San Marcos back in 2012, so I didn't think it would be a big deal if I just revisit Sheldon Brown again (I am equipped with all the appropriate Park Tools, truing stand, nipple driver, etc.). Now I am trying to re-lace my 32 hole Velocity Synergy OC rear rim to a Shimano 105 hub and I am at my wit's end because I did not struggle this hard when I first built them! So I brought my original spokes to my local bike shop for them to measure them and buy a whole new set of 32 spokes at 275mm (because the rim is off center, all the spokes are the same length and do not have to accommodate the drive side). I'm trying to lace a 3 cross pattern and I am finding that my spokes are either too short to reach the nipple, or too long that they are almost screwing through the nipple. I've checked my work SO many times and have re-laced accordingly, and all the spokes align with the correct side of the rim to the flange of my hubs, they're alternating facing in and out on hub flange, etc. According to Sheldon Brown's instructions, I started two holes to the right of the valve because that is where the right side of the rim starts for me. What am I doing wrong??? I've also attached pictures to show my work (although I know it's hard to tell even with pictures), including encircling the problem areas. I swear by Sheldon Brown's wheel build instructions; I've built two wheelsets using them so I don't know why I am struggling so hard this time around. I appreciate any help with this!


Spokes are either too short to reach or too long, despite being the same length as my original spokes. What gives?

Placed on a darker background for possibly better contrast. I know it's still kinda hard to tell from the textured towel, but that's the best I can do.

dabac

Your lace as such looks fine, but you’re out of synch at the rim.
Left side spoke pattern doesn’t ”start” where it should WRT the right side spokes.
If you look at the overall pattern, you can see the spokes (from one flange) sorta form pairs that run (almost) parallel to each other from wheel to hub. One is a heads-in, the other a heads-out.
For a 3x lace there will be six holes in the hub flange between the spokes forming a parallel pair. One hole between them at the rim.
On the wheel in the pic, you have one of those parallell pairs straight up, 12 o’clock position. (Black nipples).
Now if the spokes of a parallel pair BOTH are pointing straight UP, then their HEADS should be LEVEL.
In the pic, the right side, heads-out spoke is sitting higher.
You need to relace ONE side, starting one(free) hole away from where you started last time.
Mind where the valve ends up.

(pics were fine btw)

Bill Kapaun

The opposite side spoke holes on the hub are offset as shown in the pic.
You are probably starting your 2nd set like the pic on the right when it needs to be like the pic on the left.
IF you are progressing CCW around the rim, the 2nd set is "more" CCW than the 1st.

davidad

You are out of sync on one set of spokes. You may be able to just remove the nds spokes and start over. I use the Gerd Schtraner method. file:///C:/Users/David.000/Downloads/idoc.pub_gerd-schraner-the-art-of-wheel-building.pdf