prendrefeu

Psimet2001 

Psimet2001 

Tip 4: In light of the fact that many of you are riding in events today I will give an event based tip. Crumple your number before pinning it on. It keeps it from flapping in the wind.

Still unclear about whether you are allowed to use this technique during races anymore, but you still can during charity events for sure. That way you don't have to be that guy flying the paper flag for 100 miles.

Psimet2001 

#5 - If you're in a race and someone there will be taking pictures of you, make sure you are completely alone when they do. That way no one looking will be able to tell if you are off the front or off the back.


....unless you're a big guy like me then there is now question.

flaco

A lot of people who crumple their numbers seem to have trouble pinning it on correctly anyway. So they have what looks like a used kleenex flapping around on the back of the jersey. Just pin it on flat. Take a stitch with the pin rather than using the corner holes.

Psimet2001 

Does anyone know of a spray on or tape on fabric glue or tape that would hold the number on in wind, sweat, etc. but is easily removable and doesn't stain the jersey?

Psimet2001 

#6 - When pumping up a flat with a frame or portable pump be sure to wrap one hand around the pump head and rim together. This will stabilize the pump head and prevent you from bending/tearing off the valve stem - making you start over.

I've seen newer riders do this (bend-rip off the stem) more than once.

EDIT:Echo, echo, echo, echo......

ericcox

Aren't you supposed to be the one with the tips?

Psimet2001 

Looking for help .

Guess I'll have to stop by a fabric store sometime this week.

The pros use something, but I think their numbers come with it already applied. They just peel and stick.

AEO

https://www.agreatnotion.com/catalogue/index1.html
I found something called "Spray Fabric Adhesive" non-acidic and washes out in the washing machine. 505 looks like the best choice.

ColorChange

I have pressure sensitive adhesive that I laminate onto my number and then stick it to my jersey. Works great, no pins, no wrinkles, no flutters!, never comes off till you pull on it.

[edit] This hasn't been rain tested but I use an acrylic PSA so it shouldn't be a problem. [/edit]

recursive

This is frowned upon, as the number becomes more difficult to read in the playback. Just pin your number on properly and it will be legible, won't flap, and won't peel off.

Psimet2001 

Actually I heard an official yell at a guy next to me for crumpling his this last weekend. Official re-iterated that you are not allowed to fold, crumple or otherwise "deface" your number.

I hate pinning when it isn't crumpled so I will resort to the adhesive idea.

chipcom 

mmm paste...apply the number to the jersey, then have the leftovers for a snack, just like in kindergarten!

flaco

There was a discussion in the racing forum of a spray adhesive called Super 77. Never tried it personally, but they say if you do it right it is non-staining.

Psimet2001 

Super 77 seems pretty permanent - although it does say it's pretty low soak. + side is that it seems readily available at just about any office store and hardware store.

nick burns

Another technique is to brace the section of the wheel where the valve stem is against the inside of the thigh. Provides for a very stable three points of contact with the pump.

Psimet2001 

#7 - When installing a new chain don't feel the need to remove the lubricant that the factory applies to the chain. It is sticky and will attract a lot of dirt as you ride. One way to limit this is to wipe away excess lubricant from the outside of the chain (where it isn't doing any good anyway).

Then as you use it apply some Prolink Gold to the chain - one drop per link - and use the runoff to wipe down the chain. The Prolink will act as a solvent and help remove some of the stubborn lube from the outside. It will also gradually replace the factory lube with itself - a great lubricant in it's own right.

Dumpsterlife

Nice, I will be installing my new chain in about 10 minutes. Thanks.

rollin

It's all about the nom nom with you isn't it big man!

chipcom 

nom nom nom

fprintf

Careful with Super 77. It has a solvent in it that is known to eat plastics. I know of the foam model planes I used to build you had to be careful to apply it lightly and let it gas off first before sticking the pieces together... otherwise you'd end up with a huge pile of melted goo. I think lycra is probably OK but just be careful!

lenexatokcmo

I remember reading advice (either Sheldon or Zinn) suggesting that you should hang on to that factory chain lube as long as possible - something about it being superior to anything consumers can buy off the shelf.

Psimet2001 

#8 - I will start with some cassette tips/information/advice seeing as how people have been starting a lot fo threads about them lately. I will try to split it into multiple tips.

Shimano makes a freehub with a Shimano specific spline design. Many other manufacturers make freehub bodies that utilize the Shimano spline design. SRAM cassettes use the Shimano spline standard as well.

8-9-(10) freehub bodies are compatible with Shimano "style" (meaning Shimano, SRAM or others who claim Shimano compatible) 8 and 9 spd cassettes. I put the (10) in () because these freehub bodies are also compatible with 10 speed cassettes - but require the use of a thin spacer placed on the cassette before the cogs.

If you don't use the spacer then your cassette will still be loose once the lockring is tightened. These hubs are never referred to as 8-9-10. They are always referred to as 8-9spd.

I will continue on with more tomorrow.

Thirstyman

Psimet please explain the "nom nom nom" thing. I really have no idea what you could be getting at.