bikeman68

Vintage bike guy
Back when I rode freewheels with axle extensions for the 7 speeds , with 126mm rear spacing there were occasional bent or broken axle a few times. So your 8 speed freewheel needs even more axle spacing that allows more stress at that extension point at the bearing cone edge, so this is not a hot setup. If you want to keep your old 80s bikes running with 126mm spacing and retro freewheels, Id just re adjust the spacers on that axle for 7 speed, and trim the axle OLD back to 126mm so you wont bend axle easily OR commit to a later 90s era Campy Cassette hub to run in that steel frame. Maybe even have a good mechanic or frame builder re space your rear triangle if you want to stick with 8 speed? The 8 speed FReewheel of early 90s was a bad idea for most riders, way too weak an axle setup

bikeman68

I had this nice hub, stronger axle for freewheel and should hold out fine for most riders , maybe strong enough for a 180 lb rider? I was careful to back off on the left side cone with wheel clamped in frame so that it ran with minimal bearing drag, but with no play, to help extend bearing life. Dont ride that hub with the left cone snugged up all the way. wears cartridges out too fast. I could also pull off seals with hub intact to re grease after so many miles

Miele Man

Resurrected nearly 2 years old thread. I think the OP figured it out by now.

I remember back in the day that bent or broken axles on 7 speed freewheel wheels was a fairly common thing. that's why cassette hubs were developed and became so common. I have an 8-speed Sachs corncob freewheel that I wouldn't use on a n great distance rides.

Cheers

Bill in VA

Back when I road a freewheel I found I would bend 6 speed axles even with unloading the wheel. I asked the LBS what to do and he said to replace the axles in my Japanese hub with an old campy axle, cones, and locknut. He said pay and cry, but only once. He was right, no bends. I used the same tactic on my Peugeot UO-8 with a 5 speed axle. That had the benefit of no more French thread worry.

mrrabbit 

DOH...missed that it was a resurrected thread.

=8-(

Don't recommended doing it BUT if you must:

https://www.mrrabbit.net/docs/freewhe...OLD_sizing.pdf

See row for 8 speed.

If you do go this route, make certain to have the rear dropouts checked...especially if you've never done it before. You need to make certain that any compression load on the axle is 100% linear to the axle...not off.

=8-|

desconhecido 

As noted, the spacing on an 8 speed freewheel is probably Shimano spacing and not Campagnolo. But, spacing on. I think, all 7 speed freewheels is the same as 8 speed Campagnolo spacing. So, with a 7 speed freewheel and 8 speed Campagnolo brifters, you should be good to go -- lock out the eight choice with your derailleur limits. I've run this very setup with success.

As for the 8 speed freewheels as opposed to 7 speed. Best I can tell, the difference is on the small sprocket end. 8 speed freewheels have 11 or 12 tooth sprockets while the seven speed freewheels that I have are 13-28 or 13-30. I don't need and really can't use an 11 or 12 tooth small sprocket so the 8 speed adds nothing for me. Unless I go to a 48t big ring or something. But, even with a 48t big ring, I can't spin anything smaller than 13t on the rear.

SJX426 

Yup, I did. I used the DA hub with the DA block and Wheel Smith spacers to get the 8V to work with the Ergos.
P1010339, on Flickr

Miele Man

Neat. Well done.

Cheers