Waxing chain vs oiling - not looking back
#76
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Yup, that's why I having yet committed to using the powdered PTFE I bought a few months ago in the crock pot with wax.
Rock 'n' Roll Absolute Dry and Gold use PTFE and it settles rapidly and needs to be shaken up vigorously during use to keep it mixed in suspension. After using those lubes for a few months I'm not sure how PTFE could be reliably mixed in wax., unless I figure out how to shake a hot crock pot without scalding everything. I considered a small mixer (I think you've mentioned that before), but it seems like a waste of money for something that probably won't work well enough to get the PTFE into the chain bearing surfaces.
I may just save the PTFE powder to mix up my own homebrewed "dry" lube with naphtha.
Rock 'n' Roll Absolute Dry and Gold use PTFE and it settles rapidly and needs to be shaken up vigorously during use to keep it mixed in suspension. After using those lubes for a few months I'm not sure how PTFE could be reliably mixed in wax., unless I figure out how to shake a hot crock pot without scalding everything. I considered a small mixer (I think you've mentioned that before), but it seems like a waste of money for something that probably won't work well enough to get the PTFE into the chain bearing surfaces.
I may just save the PTFE powder to mix up my own homebrewed "dry" lube with naphtha.
#77
Jedi Master
Two dollar battery powered milk frother to mix the Teflon and moly into the wax
#78
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Wend Blue rub on wax. tad out of focus.
I'm giving Wend rub on wax a try. It comes in a stick that you rub on to the top and bottom, then work into the rollers. I wear a rubber glove when I do that. Bonus is that it comes in colors. I chose blue because it matches the accents on my bike.
I'm toying with the idea of getting it to flow just a little bit with a heat shrink gun as I don't know that just rubbing into the rollers is getting as good as penetration as I'd like.
(Yes Absolute Black Oval chain rings)
Last edited by SCTinkering; 07-24-20 at 06:34 PM. Reason: uploaded photo
#81
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That was an old post. I don't do that any more. I ride a lot of gravel and mud, and the chain gets all grindy. These days I use White Lightning Clean ride. I usually squirt some on before I put the bike in the car to drive to the trail head. Takes 30 seconds. I never have to clean the chain. I squirt some on before every ride. Easy peasy.
In my experience, the WL Epic ride version was only marginally better. Silicone and wax based just do not last for me when water is around. My lubes of choice have petroleum in them and last for hours in the rain and water and take about 1 minute to apply and wipe off.
Last edited by u235; 07-24-20 at 07:27 PM.
#82
Senior Member
I quit waxing after 3 years.
I used MSW exclusively on my former road and MTB bikes. I got 10,000 miles out of the original road cassette with 8 chains, which is pretty awesome, and even then, I only replaced the cassette because I wore out the 2 chains I was currently running, and the cassette was old AF, not because it was having any issues. I just didn't trust it enough to dedicate two new chains to it (you have to have multiple chains in rotation when waxing so that you can do quick chain swaps when the time arises).
There are pros and cons to waxing. The initial setup is a complete *****, but the ongoing maintenance after that is pretty nice.
So I've given up wax with the new bikes, and I'm back to using Rock N Roll Gold. Preparing new chains is the main reason, it's just too much work, and I don't have time to dick around with it in the garage all day.
BTW, the chains don't stay pristine like many think, at least that wasn't my experience. I had wax buildup between links that made them look dirty, and I had to scrape my mech cage and cassette with a wire brush and pick every now and then.
A closeup of my former MTB waxed chain, that's wax on the inner plates and chainring teeth, not dirt:
new set of chains for the road bike
mineral spirits and denatured alcohol baths
ready for wax
I used MSW exclusively on my former road and MTB bikes. I got 10,000 miles out of the original road cassette with 8 chains, which is pretty awesome, and even then, I only replaced the cassette because I wore out the 2 chains I was currently running, and the cassette was old AF, not because it was having any issues. I just didn't trust it enough to dedicate two new chains to it (you have to have multiple chains in rotation when waxing so that you can do quick chain swaps when the time arises).
There are pros and cons to waxing. The initial setup is a complete *****, but the ongoing maintenance after that is pretty nice.
So I've given up wax with the new bikes, and I'm back to using Rock N Roll Gold. Preparing new chains is the main reason, it's just too much work, and I don't have time to dick around with it in the garage all day.
BTW, the chains don't stay pristine like many think, at least that wasn't my experience. I had wax buildup between links that made them look dirty, and I had to scrape my mech cage and cassette with a wire brush and pick every now and then.
A closeup of my former MTB waxed chain, that's wax on the inner plates and chainring teeth, not dirt:
new set of chains for the road bike
mineral spirits and denatured alcohol baths
ready for wax
#83
Senior Member
I like wax-based lubes. Liquid lubes just get filthy. Finish Line Dry Teflon in a drip bottle has been my go-to for years.
Pros:
- very clean running, it's a Teflon-based wax in suspension and acts like a wax on your chain. Your cassette stays spotless with this stuff.
- easy to apply, evaporates quickly, doesn't make a mess
- cheap, readily available
- one of the best rated lubes in most friction testing
- silences the drivetrain very well
- works great in dusty gravel conditions because nothing really sticks to it
- cleaning the chain is very easy with spray degreaser. Side note: the WD-40 Bike degreaser spray is a very good product.
Cons:
- doesn't last as long as some
- worthless if you ride in rain
- it's for chains only, doesn't really work on derailleur pivots etc
- it's very light and not very protective, it's not ideal for muddy rides on mountain bikes
Squirt is great stuff too but it's a bit pricey (not that $3 extra really matters) and I don't find it works better than Finish Line.
Pros:
- very clean running, it's a Teflon-based wax in suspension and acts like a wax on your chain. Your cassette stays spotless with this stuff.
- easy to apply, evaporates quickly, doesn't make a mess
- cheap, readily available
- one of the best rated lubes in most friction testing
- silences the drivetrain very well
- works great in dusty gravel conditions because nothing really sticks to it
- cleaning the chain is very easy with spray degreaser. Side note: the WD-40 Bike degreaser spray is a very good product.
Cons:
- doesn't last as long as some
- worthless if you ride in rain
- it's for chains only, doesn't really work on derailleur pivots etc
- it's very light and not very protective, it's not ideal for muddy rides on mountain bikes
Squirt is great stuff too but it's a bit pricey (not that $3 extra really matters) and I don't find it works better than Finish Line.
Last edited by Hiro11; 07-25-20 at 08:40 PM.