jesseh627

I'd really appreciate hearing from you all on your choice between Tubeless and Clincher. I was speaking with a veteran rider at my LBS about different tires/tubes, and he encouraged me to look at Tubeless. He loves the ride and hasn't had a flat in two years. This guy rides 8-10k miles per year. I ride for fun, do a benefit ride per month. If I'm lucky I get in 75-100 miles per week. Thoughts?

BikeWNC

I like the idea of tubeless tire for road. I use tubeless on my mtb without problems. My issue with them though is the lack of options for road tires. There just aren't many tubeless tires out there. I know several guys that had used them but went back to a tubed system because they either couldn't find tires locally or didn't like the ones that are out there. Otherwise, tubeless makes sense to me.

bikepro

Tubeless wheels are clinchers. The only difference is the tubeless has, as the name implies, no inner tube -- much like a tubeless tire on a car. Road tubeless has been around since around 2006 but has been slow to gain acceptance. This has been due in part to the limited number of tubeless tires and wheels available. Today there are several tubeless tire choices, but still small compared to normal clinchers.

Weight wise, a tubeless tire weighs about the same as a standard clincher and tube. Tubeless tires have a heaver bead to lock the tire on the rim. You can use tubeless specific rims, and there are kits from people like Stan's No Tubes to convert a standard rim to tubeless. In either case, a tubeless tire is required. The tubeless rim is probably better since they are built specifically to lock the tire into place.

Tubeless tires are tricky to inflate -- numerous videos on the web demonstrate how to do this. Part of the "flat resistance" depends on adding a sealer in the tire when it is mounted. If a puncture occurs, the sealer plugs the hole. Of course there are limits to the size cut the sealer will seal.

Since there is no tube, tubeless can be run at lower tire pressure. Also, if a flat does occur, the tire deflates slowly and the tire normally stays on the rim -- like a tubular. If you have a flat on the road, you can put a normal inner tube in the tire until you can repair the tire. There are tubeless repair kits for that purpose.

Probably the best site of tubeless information is "Stan's No Tubes".

Rick@OCRR

Thanks for the excellent and very complete post bikepro! Like BikeWNC, I've been thinking about going to tubeless road for awhile now, but the sealer issue (and mess involved therein) has kept me away more than limited rim and tire choices. My understanding is that the sealant, in addition to the initial filling, should be replaced every couple of years. Not that most tires last that long on my bikes . . .

And really, how much of a mess is it compared to when I used to run tubulars and deal with Tubasti and Clement (smells like fish!) glue. So I don't know, I'm still on the fence with the road tubeless option. Someday, maybe . . .

Rick / OCRR

BikeWNC

Rick, the Stans sealant doesn't make a mess. I let the bike shop install it in my mtb tires and replace it as needed. I think in a mtb tire it should be replaced every 6 months or so, not sure about road applications. My LBS just told me that Specialized has a new road tubeless tire. So options are improving. My mtb rides well tubeless, lower pressure, nice supple ride. I expect that to translate to the road too. If I can find a deal on some Shimano DA 24TL wheels I might give it a try.

bikepro

I had a set of tubeless Shimano wheels in 2006 when they first came out. I had problems getting them to inflate, even with a compressor. I finally gave up and started using tubes with them. I sold them about a year ago. I've considered trying them again, but the tire choices are still limited. If Continental made a tubeless version of the GP 4000S I might. In reality, road tubeless has limped along for around seven years and has never really took off. I attribute it to them not been used by professionals. Why should they? If they need something better than a clincher, they go direct to tubular. I think the same is true of non-professional racers -- when a clincher won't due, a tubular is the normally the answer.

Rick@OCRR

That would be a good alternative for me bikepro, i.e. buy a good set of used tubeless wheels (from someone who, like you, has become disenchanted with them) and give it a try for considerably less than buying the tubeless wheels new. Will have a look around with that in mind!

Rick / OCRR

volosong

I have three wheelsets that are tubeless capable, two Ultegra and one Dura-Ace. I run tubes in all of them. Main reason is that I don't want that goop inside my wheels. Tubes are cheap enough. Used to get a lot of flats last year, before I discovered that I was using racing tires. Since I switched to Bontrager Hard-Case tires on two bikes and Continental Gatorskin tires on the other, haven't flatted at all. Not the lightest tires, but plenty strong to deal with road debris and the occasional pothole I couldn't avoid.

Bikey Mikey

Exact reasons I use Gators. I'd rather ride than become expert at changing flats in under 2 minutes. I may be loosing 2~4% in speed with the tires, but I'm riding, not stopped and changing tubes.

cafzali

In my experience, while a lot of serious riders have gone tubeless and say they offer a better ride, most people opt to stay with clinchers and go with the specific tires that best fit how they ride. Racers, for example, might favor Michelin Pro 4s or something similar, whereas more recreational riders will often opt for Continental GP4000s, Gatorskins or some other tire that offers some level of puncture resistance. Personally, I don't think it has as much to do with how many miles you ride as much as how you ride.

bikepro

Just checked eBay -- several used tubeless wheel sets to choose from.

Mobile 155

I have tried them and most of the comments are right on. Yes they do ride smoother. Yes they get less flats. They are the most goathead resistant tire I have ever had. And I was told that you could still use a tube if you did get a flat. The Stans does seem to protect you much like tire sealant does on a car tire. Now the caveat. If you do get a flat and try to put a tube in then first you have to peal off all of the rubber gunk left by the Stans. It sticks like bubble gun to the inside of the rim. As said there are fewer tires to choose from and non of them ever seem to go on sale. They must work better on MTBs because so many are using them but on road bikes they are of limited use I believe. And like someone said you need a sudden burst of high pressure air to seat them if you do have to fix a flat without a tube. However there is a sew up look alike tire that fits on the rims. But it runs about 100 bucks a pop so bringing an extra one with you can be expensive.

mkane77g

Have been running tubeless for 5 years thereabouts. No flats yet. Using Hutchinson tires. They are a pain to get seated. I use simple green and it seems to work well as a lube and speeds thing along. Nice ride at 95psi.

jppe

I too have debated and researched going tubeless. There is a newer Hutchinson tire out that is a little cheaper and more durable as I understand it. However from what I've read and heard from my buddies tubeless tires can be a pill to get on a rim. One of them even had to get some plastic covered tire tools just to get the leverage he needed. They are probably better once you get them on the rim and they stretch some but they sound like they could be more difficult to deal with IF you're out on the road and have a flat.

Anyway what I've gone to are 23 mm wide rims with a normal clincher/tube setup. That provides you with a slightly wider rim where you can run a lower tire pressure to a more narrow, regular sized rim. I've reduced the overall tire pressure and can really notice the ride difference---and have not seen any increase in pinch flats. The wider rims are terrific on descents as well. Some of my buddies are even running 25 mm tires in the wider rims and they come away with big smiles on the overall ride feel.

jesseh627

I appreciate all the replies. I'm still leaning to staying with clincher rims and the 23mm wide rims may be my next purchase!

bikepro

Take a look at the Zipp 101's. Not cheap but an excellent alloy rim with many aero features of their more expensive carbon rims.

Standard clinchers are so easy to work with and nearly bullet-proof. If you want added flat protection, you can put sealer in a tube as long as it has a removable valve core.

LucF

I've been using tubeless Bontrager R3's on Velocity rims at 90 psi for 4 months now, riding 500-800 km a week on paved but pretty rough and dirty roads. I also have maybe 300 km on fine to coarse gravel. Very soft ride -- except on gravel . No flats yet. Love 'em. I'm on my 3rd set of tires. I found I get better adherence and comfort with the R3's (120 tpi) than with Hutchison's Intensive (67 tpi). My LBS uses sealant when installing them. Never had a problem. I keep a bottle of sealant and a spare tube in my toolkit, but I think I'm going to dish the sealant soon. I'll never go back to plain clinchers.

jesseh627

I really appreciate the input. Time on Tubeless will be the only answer.

rdtompki

I just started riding a new set of wheels mounting Hutchinson Secteur 28mm tubeless. I'm 200 lbs and would normally run 100/105 front/rear with tubed 28mm tires; I'm running 90/95 psi for the time being with the tubeless. I really like the ride; in addition to improved ride over straight line bumps, the bike actually seems to track better cornering over rough roads. Of course when you've just shelled out $'s for wheels and tires there is a bit of placebo going on as it were. Plus, I do have new wheels!

The wheels are not tubeless specific, but the combination of two layers or so of special rim tape and sealant leaves me with no more than a 5 psi pressure drop overnight. I expect this to slowly decrease, but not really an issue since I pump up my tires before every ride.

jppe

I think the ride feel and is more than placebo. I've noticed the same thing with the 23 mm wide wheels with tubes due to a little lower air pressure and wider footprint.

jesseh627

I keep vacillating, but I think I've decided to get the wheels listed below and stick with clinchers.

https://store.rolwheels.com/2013-vola...cher-p148.aspx