Tube Width Question
#1
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Tube Width Question
My tire size is 26" x 2.0". Any suggestions on tube width range?
Here are my options:
A) 1.75" – 2.125", 35mm
B) 1.75" – 2.25", 35mm
C) 2.0" – 2.4", 48mm
Here are my options:
A) 1.75" – 2.125", 35mm
B) 1.75" – 2.25", 35mm
C) 2.0" – 2.4", 48mm
#2
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I believe any of those will fit. If I had to choose between smaller or larger than optimal, I always pick smaller.
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All three will fit your wheel and tire. It is easier to install a smaller tubes than one that exactly matches the width of the tire and also the next size up. Less chance for kinks and folds. Those are much more of a problem when installing a tube in a narrow tire like a 700C X 18 or 700C X 23. I have the latter and always choose tubes that say "fits 700C X 18-23" if they are available.
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Also, don't ignore valve stem length. 35mm might be too short for many rims. Best to measure what you have now. A little longer won't hurt anything.
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I've never understood why tubes are sold in different widths. I get that extreme ends of the spectrum might be an issue and different diameters make sense, but in the example given by the OP the narrowest tube will easily stretch out to fill a tire twice that size. They should just sell tubes in S, M, L.
This is especially noticeable in road sizes. Does anyone really believe that stretching an 18-23c tube out to 25-28mm (or even 32mm) is going to harm it in any way or make it more prone to flatting? If no, then why do manufacturers sell 700c tubes in so many different widths?
This is especially noticeable in road sizes. Does anyone really believe that stretching an 18-23c tube out to 25-28mm (or even 32mm) is going to harm it in any way or make it more prone to flatting? If no, then why do manufacturers sell 700c tubes in so many different widths?
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I have a theory that a thicker tube loses air more slowly, and one that is stretched thinner loses air more quickly. A larger tube in a smaller tire would end up thicker than a smaller tube in a larger tire. So far I have just one single example: a bike where I switched from 35mm tires to 30mm with the same tubes and air leakage virtually ceased, entirely. I guess we should count the tire as a variable here, but so far this is all I have.
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Make sure you read the specs for length. I've made the mistake once & have some that are just a little bit too short for most of my wheels.
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Don't over think it, but in general, the more your tube has to stretch to fill the tire, the more it will act like a balloon when punctured. A tube any bigger than the inside of the tire will be wrinkled and a wrinkle will be wear on the tube every revolution of the tire. A big wrinkle might even be felt as a bump and hinted at visually by uneven inflation of the tire.
If you get the wrong tube and it blows out quick, just think of that as an opportunity to try something else and gain more experience changing/patching the tube and tires.
If you get the wrong tube and it blows out quick, just think of that as an opportunity to try something else and gain more experience changing/patching the tube and tires.
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I've never understood why tubes are sold in different widths. I get that extreme ends of the spectrum might be an issue and different diameters make sense, but in the example given by the OP the narrowest tube will easily stretch out to fill a tire twice that size. They should just sell tubes in S, M, L.
This is especially noticeable in road sizes. Does anyone really believe that stretching an 18-23c tube out to 25-28mm (or even 32mm) is going to harm it in any way or make it more prone to flatting? If no, then why do manufacturers sell 700c tubes in so many different widths?
This is especially noticeable in road sizes. Does anyone really believe that stretching an 18-23c tube out to 25-28mm (or even 32mm) is going to harm it in any way or make it more prone to flatting? If no, then why do manufacturers sell 700c tubes in so many different widths?