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Old 03-11-20, 08:40 AM
  #26  
Drew Eckhardt 
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Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
Park Tool's IB-3 multi tool includes those on the tire lever/ chain breaker handle. They suck for anything other than sn emergency though.
I bring a 17g black Park SW-0 spoke wrench and 77g CT-5 chain tool. They don't suck, although other riders with Japanese nipples are out of luck.

For a 75 kg rider + bike combination that costs you 4.5 seconds per hour in the mountains which doesn't matter when you're not racing in which case neutral support would make it redundant.
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Old 03-11-20, 08:44 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by rumrunn6
seems to be my specialty. always the rear. & the wheel always go far enough out of true, that I can't ride it home. hoping the last tech, that did the replacement & truing, reviewed all the spokes
As above, bring a spoke wrench or multi-tool with a spoke wrench, and see if you can make it ridable. What have you got to lose?
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Old 03-11-20, 09:12 AM
  #28  
Unca_Sam
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Originally Posted by Drew Eckhardt
I bring a 17g black Park SW-0 spoke wrench and 77g CT-5 chain tool. They don't suck, although other riders with Japanese nipples are out of luck.

For a 75 kg rider + bike combination that costs you 4.5 seconds per hour in the mountains which doesn't matter when you're not racing in which case neutral support would make it redundant.
Oh, I meant the spoke wrenches suck, not the chain tool. It's a handy little thing to have, and I'm generally not counting grams. I happily use the chain tool to size chains in the workshop, but the spoke wrenches are too cumbersome and prone to rounding nipples to replace a dedicated spoke wrench in the workshop.
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Old 03-11-20, 01:02 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
...the spoke wrenches are too cumbersome and prone to rounding nipples to replace a dedicated spoke wrench in the workshop.
This is common to multi-tools IME. I have bought and lost a couple Park spoke wrenches over the years, and learnt my lesson to not rely on the multi-tool ones. The cheap ring-shaped multi-size spoke wrench, though, seems to work fine.
https://www.amazon.ca/Holoras-Bicycl...40302876&psc=1
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Old 03-11-20, 01:36 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
If the difference is between getting home and not getting home, crank away on the nearest opposing nipples to pull in the slack! Higher spoke counts help too. I can imagine that a 24 or 28 spoke rear wheel would take more adjustment than the 32 and 36 spoke wheels I ride on. The other tip is to open the brake's QR, but that doesn't help if the wheel is rubbing the frame!
Originally Posted by rumrunn6
thank you. I've tweaked my kids bikes' wheels, a little, when they weren't perfect. so I've done it, at home, a little, but the cpl times I've "felt" stranded I had bail out options ..
Even better -- you can loosen up the two neighboring spokes a little, and tighten the two outside of those a bit, to spread out the imbalance. That's why it's good practice to build wheels at less than the rim's maximum tension, so you have room to maneuver if need be.
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