Miyata 914 I'm not sure what to do with it.
06-16-20, 12:14 PM
#76
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Yes, that end of the stem is the quill, and it should be 22.2mm. Try to clean out the steerer with a rag, and maybe some fine steel wool and a bit of oil. Also, yes, don’t force it, and don’t forget a thin layer of grease on the new quill to avoid any corrosion.
These parts all have tight tolerances and need a little patience.
These parts all have tight tolerances and need a little patience.
06-16-20, 12:16 PM
#77
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Thanks all. I will try that. What bothers me is that the old stem fits so easily while the new one will only insert an inch or two. I even removed the long bolt and the jam to see if it will go.
06-16-20, 12:27 PM
#78
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I would think the last resort is not to whack it in, but to take some fine sandpaper to the quill to remove a little material. This is often done with modern 22.2 stems to fit them into 22.0 vintage French steerers. Wrap the quill with paper and rotate the stem so you get even abrasion around the diameter of the quill. Again, there may be something else to try, and someone else will chime in before resorting to sanding.
06-16-20, 12:32 PM
#79
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Thanks I just measured them both using the strip of paper with a line method and they do appear to be the same size. Strange. I'll try cleaning out the steerer first.
06-16-20, 12:42 PM
#80
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Thanks all. After some cleanup all is good. What really threw me off was how easily the old one inserted compared to the new one. New one is actually a much better fit.
06-16-20, 12:45 PM
#81
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I read in another forum that you may want to insert the stem without the wedge to see if there is a difference. It could be that the wedge is working itself into an "installed" position on the way down.
EDIT: Great, glad it worked!
EDIT: Great, glad it worked!
07-08-20, 03:10 PM
#82
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I installed the Nitto Technomic 90mm stem and Noodle 44cm bars. Bike is definitely more comfortable and fun to ride. Maybe I need to tilt the bars down a bit so they are more level? Thanks to everyone for the suggestions.
Last edited by Rdytoroll; 07-08-20 at 03:17 PM.
07-08-20, 05:27 PM
#83
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From the looks of things, I would want to slide the levers upward along the bars until the tips of the lever was even with the lower "edge" of the bars.
Then I would try moving the saddle forward 1cm and upward a bit, followed by leveling the bars.
If you can get the lower half of the body to rotate forward about the crank center, then one can reach lower in front without having to bend any further at the waist!
I often notice that riders move a too-low saddle rearward in order not to feel the back edge of the saddle, but going forward and up works better for most.
Some riders initially will want to be able to keep toes on the ground while sitting on the saddle while stopped. That's fine for a cruiser but not for a road bike imo.
Then I would try moving the saddle forward 1cm and upward a bit, followed by leveling the bars.
If you can get the lower half of the body to rotate forward about the crank center, then one can reach lower in front without having to bend any further at the waist!
I often notice that riders move a too-low saddle rearward in order not to feel the back edge of the saddle, but going forward and up works better for most.
Some riders initially will want to be able to keep toes on the ground while sitting on the saddle while stopped. That's fine for a cruiser but not for a road bike imo.
07-08-20, 05:38 PM
#84
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Thread Starter
From the looks of things, I would want to slide the levers upward along the bars until the tips of the lever was even with the lower "edge" of the bars.
Then I would try moving the saddle forward 1cm and upward a bit, followed by leveling the bars.
If you can get the lower half of the body to rotate forward about the crank center, then one can reach lower in front without having to bend any further at the waist!
I often notice that riders move a too-low saddle rearward in order not to feel the back edge of the saddle, but going forward and up works better for most.
Some riders initially will want to be able to keep toes on the ground while sitting on the saddle while stopped. That's fine for a cruiser but not for a road bike imo.
Then I would try moving the saddle forward 1cm and upward a bit, followed by leveling the bars.
If you can get the lower half of the body to rotate forward about the crank center, then one can reach lower in front without having to bend any further at the waist!
I often notice that riders move a too-low saddle rearward in order not to feel the back edge of the saddle, but going forward and up works better for most.
Some riders initially will want to be able to keep toes on the ground while sitting on the saddle while stopped. That's fine for a cruiser but not for a road bike imo.
07-08-20, 09:19 PM
#85
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I was also about to mention that feeling like you are constantly sliding forwards can be solved by adjusting the seat tilt and where it is clamped on the rails. Getting it right takes a bit of playing around but once you feel like you're not holding yourself from falling forward it's worth it.
07-08-20, 09:50 PM
#86
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07-09-20, 10:14 AM
#87
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But everyone rides differently since we are all build differently. Hope the changes allow you to enjoy the bike moving forward!
08-07-20, 05:32 PM
#88
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Made some adjustments and feel that the bike is now much more comfortable and fun to ride. Thank you all for the excellent suggestions. Still have some work to do on the bike but fit seems much better.
Last edited by Rdytoroll; 08-07-20 at 05:39 PM.
08-07-20, 10:41 PM
#89
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Looks like you're finally putting in the miles. Yours is more the "century" or "Rivendell" style setup that many here seem to prefer. Gotta be comfortable and the heads-up position is safer amidst traffic.
