Wabi Classic Build
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 109
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Wabi Classic Build
I'm creating this thread mainly to consolidate the questions i'll have during my first build. But to keep it interesting i'll try to upload a lot of photos.
I went with the Wabi for several reasons. The first is that I personally jived with the Wabi philosophy. The second is that the frame was a good price for some decent metal. lastly the geometry is described as being a little more relaxed than a typical track bike, which is what I was looking for. For parts, I wanted to go all Nitto and Sugino, but I couldn't afford it. Basically I tried to get the best quality parts I could afford, with aesthetics taking lower priority than function.
Here it is so far: Wabi Classic, SRAM Omnium & GXP bb, Nitto RB-019 bars
Now, on to my first (newest) question. I just installed the SRAM Omnium, and I was a little surprised at how poorly it seemed to spin. I uploaded a video, and wanted your opinions on if this is what to expect from a newly installed crank/bb.
I went with the Wabi for several reasons. The first is that I personally jived with the Wabi philosophy. The second is that the frame was a good price for some decent metal. lastly the geometry is described as being a little more relaxed than a typical track bike, which is what I was looking for. For parts, I wanted to go all Nitto and Sugino, but I couldn't afford it. Basically I tried to get the best quality parts I could afford, with aesthetics taking lower priority than function.
Here it is so far: Wabi Classic, SRAM Omnium & GXP bb, Nitto RB-019 bars
Now, on to my first (newest) question. I just installed the SRAM Omnium, and I was a little surprised at how poorly it seemed to spin. I uploaded a video, and wanted your opinions on if this is what to expect from a newly installed crank/bb.
Last edited by DScience; 08-29-14 at 08:31 AM.
#2
Veteran Racer
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Posts: 11,758
Bikes: 32 frames + 80 wheels
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1331 Post(s)
Liked 764 Times
in
431 Posts
i don't see anything unusual in your crank spin test. There is probably some drag in the bearing seals, which you will not even notice when riding the bike. I'm not familiar with the GXP BB, so I don't know if it's possible to get the bearings too tight.
#3
Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: PDX
Posts: 45
Bikes: Surly Cross-check
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
That's a gorgeous frame. Looking forward to seeing the finished bike!
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 462
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I second that. Such a nice frame and great color. I'm looking to buy the same soon
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 109
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
#6
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
I am unfamiliar with that particular style crank/BB and their instalation. That said, it looks like something is really wrong there. It looks like it makes only ~8 revolutions and comes to a stiff abrupt stop. I've never had a square taper crank on a cartridge decelerate so rapidy. They usually spin and spin and take forever to come to a very "floaty" stop.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 109
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Small update:
Over the past two years of riding a fixed/single speed i've been using Nitto rb-002 bullhorn handlebars, with in-line brake levers on the top. The was not ideal because every time I needed to stop I would have to switch my hands to the top bar. Thus for a while now i've wanted reverse bar-end brake levers, so I ended up getting the Cane Creek 200TT's; anyone have experience with these?
Over the past two years of riding a fixed/single speed i've been using Nitto rb-002 bullhorn handlebars, with in-line brake levers on the top. The was not ideal because every time I needed to stop I would have to switch my hands to the top bar. Thus for a while now i've wanted reverse bar-end brake levers, so I ended up getting the Cane Creek 200TT's; anyone have experience with these?
#8
Senior Member
Small update:
Over the past two years of riding a fixed/single speed i've been using Nitto rb-002 bullhorn handlebars, with in-line brake levers on the top. The was not ideal because every time I needed to stop I would have to switch my hands to the top bar. Thus for a while now i've wanted reverse bar-end brake levers, so I ended up getting the Cane Creek 200TT's; anyone have experience with these?
Over the past two years of riding a fixed/single speed i've been using Nitto rb-002 bullhorn handlebars, with in-line brake levers on the top. The was not ideal because every time I needed to stop I would have to switch my hands to the top bar. Thus for a while now i've wanted reverse bar-end brake levers, so I ended up getting the Cane Creek 200TT's; anyone have experience with these?
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gnv, FL
Posts: 1,890
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I am unfamiliar with that particular style crank/BB and their instalation. That said, it looks like something is really wrong there. It looks like it makes only ~8 revolutions and comes to a stiff abrupt stop. I've never had a square taper crank on a cartridge decelerate so rapidy. They usually spin and spin and take forever to come to a very "floaty" stop.
GXP bottom brackets have no reliable, simple adjustability on the bearing preload, which honestly kinda sucks. If the BB is a bit loose upon initial installation and torquing to ~40nm you can apply additional torque to a max value of 48-54nm to eliminate play by removing crankset, regreasing spindle, and tightening again. It's a lame design. Assuming you match BB shell width, BB, and crankset compatibility then you should be fine.
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 109
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
GXP bottom brackets have no reliable, simple adjustability on the bearing preload, which honestly kinda sucks. If the BB is a bit loose upon initial installation and torquing to ~40nm you can apply additional torque to a max value of 48-54nm to eliminate play by removing crankset, regreasing spindle, and tightening again. It's a lame design. Assuming you match BB shell width, BB, and crankset compatibility then you should be fine.
Slight of using a torque wrench, is there any other way to ensure the BB is installed correctly? It's definitely an english bb, and the crank comes with the GXP, so hopefully it's fine.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gnv, FL
Posts: 1,890
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I don't have a torque wrench, and installed the BB with a park bbt-9. Initially I thought I may have tightened the external bearings too tight, so I took the crank off and reinstalled everything. I can't say exactly how much force I used to tighten it, but it seems ok. There is no play in the crank arms.
Slight of using a torque wrench, is there any other way to ensure the BB is installed correctly? It's definitely an english bb, and the crank comes with the GXP, so hopefully it's fine.
Slight of using a torque wrench, is there any other way to ensure the BB is installed correctly? It's definitely an english bb, and the crank comes with the GXP, so hopefully it's fine.
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 109
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Well, you should consider checking the torque on the bolt. If you have the bolt tightened appropriately and the bearings feel noticeably compressed then you would be wise to check your BB shell width and make sure it isn't more than 68mm, in which case you would have to face the BB down to the correct width.
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 109
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Update:
Yesterday I assembled the bike, and the hardest thing was putting the tires on. OMG. Anyway, everything seems to be good and i'll take some detailed picks when it's done, but for now the only concern I have is the noise the chain is making via the cog. It's a KMC K710SL chain, white industries hub and cog. I checked the chainline with the omnium crank and both are at 42mm. Is this sound normal for a brand new drivetrain?
Yesterday I assembled the bike, and the hardest thing was putting the tires on. OMG. Anyway, everything seems to be good and i'll take some detailed picks when it's done, but for now the only concern I have is the noise the chain is making via the cog. It's a KMC K710SL chain, white industries hub and cog. I checked the chainline with the omnium crank and both are at 42mm. Is this sound normal for a brand new drivetrain?
Last edited by DScience; 08-29-14 at 08:32 AM.
#16
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
At the risk of causing alarm, again, , that sounds nasty to me. New chain and perfect chain line, so my guess is something is amiss in the hub.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,435
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,471 Times
in
2,079 Posts
I need another bike like I need the proverbial hole in a head. Still this is a really pretty bike.
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 109
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I dunno.
Last edited by DScience; 08-24-14 at 01:38 PM.
#19
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
I thought it indeed sounded nasty. However I just got back from my LBS and the guy didn't think there was anything wrong with the hub, and thought it wasn't anything abnormal; just chain noise. Also, it is not noticeable when riding and oat high speeds seems silent.
I dunno.
I dunno.
#21
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
IMO the guy at the shop is wrong. That noise is not normal. It should be silent. To me though, it doesn't sound like a chain issue. It has a rattlly quality. It is weird too that it is silent when you ride it. Odd for sure.
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 109
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
When I watch the video I posted it does sound like a rattle of some sort. But in person, it sounds more like a chain/cog noise. The 18t white industries 1/8 cog is HUGE and with the big chain I think that's what's causing it.
Last edited by DScience; 08-24-14 at 03:09 PM.
#23
Senior Member
do you get any noise when spinning the wheel while holding it by the axel? or is this only a noise when on the bike and chain setup.
#24
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
White industries track hubs are relatively simple, that being an instruction manual to disassemble them. If there was a problem with the hub, are there any other signs or ways to diagnose it?
When I watch the video I posted it does sound like a rattle of some sort. But in person, it sounds more like a chain/cog noise. The 18t white industries 1/8 cog is HUGE and with the big chain I think that's what's causing it.
When I watch the video I posted it does sound like a rattle of some sort. But in person, it sounds more like a chain/cog noise. The 18t white industries 1/8 cog is HUGE and with the big chain I think that's what's causing it.
Thinking out loud here...... Is your chain line 42mms because all the component literature says you will achieve that? Or did you actually measure it? I have had some components NOT produce what they advertised.