drjay9051

Having some fit issues with my new bike. I get numbness in the median nerve distribution of both hands (first 3 fingers). I am using goodpadded gloves. I am sure it is an issue with stem height (angle). My LBS has tried adjusting bars and we switched from a 100mm to a 80mm stem. Seat position (height as well as fore/aft is good). Rather than continually switching out stems with different degrees of rise and length I am considering getting an adjustable stem. They are available from Ritchie, Dimension and a few other companies.

I can dial in a fit quicker and than purchase a fixed stem of that type. I see Ritchie does not have markings as opposed to Dimension which shows degrees of adjustment. Easier to swith to fixed stem with known degrees.

Yes the adjustable is heavier but I need to lose a lot more than 100 grams off my body so i'm not concerned about stem weight.

Lastly, I see reference to "stack height" on the stems. Is this important?

My bike is a Scott CR 1 Pro. Specs as follows:

https://www.scott-sports.com/us/en/pr.../#.UVmDxDfpct8

No mention of stack height , just stem diameter , 31.8 mm.

Any help is appreciated.

DR J

Ferrous Bueller

Stack height' refers to the height of the stem where it clamps to the steerer tube of the fork. Most stems are 40mm. You can measure yours with a ruler. The new stem need not be the exact height of the old, but if it's shorter, you'll want extra spacer(s). If it's taller, you will need to remove spacers if they are there. The stem should not be much more than more than 2 or 3 mm (1/8") above the height of the steerer.

Be forewarned: Adjustable stems are not just heavier than conventional ones. They're flexier, potentially noisier, and some are prone to loosening. I'd recommend blue LocTite on the threads of all stem fixing/adjusting bolts.

EDIT: Just noticed you have a carbon steerer on that Scott. Any replacement stem should be rated as suitable for such use. The stem could potentially clamp the steerer in a way that crushes it. You could void any warranty, and (much worse) potentially break the top of the steerer.

drjay9051

No what?

Don't use. You don't like. They don't work or you don't know ********************???

Ferrous Bueller

^It's likely he's opposed for aesthetic reasons.

FrenchFit 

They're dorky, but they work fine. Once your fit is dialed in I suspect you'll opt for a traditional stem. Keep in mind, they change the rise angle but the length is the length, unless you cheat it by dropping the height. Where they really excel is a bike that has to accommodate different riders, especially if you are using it on one of those quill/stem combos.

datlas 

Here is my advice....

Go ahead and get a used adjustable stem from Ebay or CL to experiment with fit.

Once you have figured out your "ideal" stem length and angle, pitch the adjustable stem for a good one that duplicates your ideal fit position.

Keep the adjustable stem if you think you may need it in the future, or flip it, so to speak.

If you are going to be switching out stems periodically you may want to invest in a torque wrench so you don't ruin your steerer tube.

Nbob

Have you ruled out the possibility of bar width or hood angle problems? If your wrists curl in or flex out too much ( bar width) or bend up/ down too much ( hood angle) your grip will be affected. Maybe not so much that your wrists hurt but enough to increase the pressure points on your palms.

abstractform20

a lot of padding does not = comfort.

put on your gloves. you have two "pads" on your hand: one running down from the pinky, and one running down from the thumb. the area between these pads runs down to middle of your wrist, and forms a crease when you grip/hold something...like when riding on the hoods. make sure that your gloves do not have padding pushing into this crease (the crease is an ulnar region with a bunch of nerves).

additionally, make sure you are not riding with the "crease" in a manner that causes it to support your weight/balance.

also, how do you grip the hoods when riding? if you grip the brake lever/brifter with multiple fingers, it can change the wrist angle, and end up putting pressure on the "crease"; this compression leads to hand comfort issues. try riding with just the index finger wrapped around/lightly gripping the brake lever, and placing the other fingers behind it (resting near the front of your handlebar drops).

make sure that your saddle is level (most should be), and set up for your center of gravity. too far forward, or too much downward (forward) tilt will cause hand discomfort.

make sure that the transition from the top of the handlebars to the brake hoods is smooth. any dips or bumps (watch out for bad cable routing) can cause hand discomfort.

finally, as previously mentioned, make sure that the top of the handlebars and hoods are horizontal/parallel to the ground (as a starting point. some are more comfortable with slight angle adjustments).

ps- any prior injuries or medical conditions?

pic of you on bike?

abstractform20

OP, also make sure your upper body and hands are relaxed. no death grip.

rpenmanparker 

OP, the adjustable stem is a very useful technique for dialing in your stem/bar fit. Just keep a few things in mind:

Although angle may be marked on the stem, it isn't necessarily important, because MOST LIKELY on a road bike you will replace the adjustable stem with a fixed one that only has +/- 6 or 7 degrees depending upon the maker. So angle is just a way to adjust length and height. You are not likely going to buy a fixed stem with the same angle as the adjustable stem (dorky). When you have the adjustable stem where you want it, you have to take measurements of the bar height and reach that the stem is giving you and you like. Combining those with the angle if you can read it, then you have to convert those dimensions into a spacer stack, stem length, and stem flip position (and angle, yes, but probably chosen from the limited road offerings) that replicate the adjustable stem position. Might involve some trigonometry (ouch!), and it sounds harder than it is. Some of us here can help you with that if needed.

99Klein 

I did the adjustable stem to get the best fit. I don't mind the looks but weight and sturdiness are not good. You'll be happy to order a new stem when your done :-)

Side note, I have the same problem as you and am betting its not a stem issue. Firmer, thinner padding helps me more than thicker softer padded gloves. I even experience it on my hybrid with nice grips. Keep you hand positions varied and rest one hand at a time occasionally.

gc3

carpediemracing 

I raced with a Ritchey adjustable stem for about half a season, continuing its use in the offseason until I got a frame that allowed me to replicate the bar position. I don't have the pictures readily available but basically I measured the location of the center of the bars (i.e. where the stem clamps it), Sharpied the primary points of a different frame size (where top tube ends, where head tube ends, etc), and figured out that I could use a flat/-17 12 cm stem on a size smaller frame.

That's a long way of saying that a Ritchey stem is totally usable in every day riding. Yes, it's a bit heavier, yes the weight is in an extremely noticeable area (the bike responds slower when making slow speed moves). I'd say the stem was as stiff or stiffer than the regular Ritchey stems I used - due to the massive angle adjustment bolt and the material for the angle adjustment area the stem is rock solid in that area. It's like the S&S frame coupling - they actually increase the stiffness of a lot of frames because they effectively shorten tube lengths. Same with the Ritchey adjustable stem.

For secureness it has a locking tooth type angle adjusting thing so it limits the fine tuning but it also makes it possible to securely lock the stem in whatever angle you want to check.

Keep in mind that a Ritchey stem adjusts a portion of the length. I used a 12 cm stem but only about 8 cm actually angles (I didn't measure, I'm guessing).

I've used a Look Ergo stem as well and that was more like what I expected - flexible, heavy, not very secure (it'd move on you in violent efforts). The Look is much more adjustable and I would use it for radical TT fits and such. On one rider's TT fit I ended up placing the bar in such a way that it was almost directly over the brake - the Look stem followed the head tube straight down. He ended up winning the top Masters stage race, helped along with winning the TT in that stage race.

Speaking of fit almost anyone can get numb fingers. It's normal to see guys at the end of a crit shaking out their hands because in dicey situations you want to be in the drops and many riders don't train in the drops. They're not used to the position, don't adjust their grip properly, and therefore get numb hands. This happens to me if I'm so focused on race events/tactics that I forget about things like moving my hands around (which is second nature to me now). Before you go too crazy with fit solutions for your numb hands:
1. Do you move your hands around, like every few minutes? Hoods, tops, drops?
2. Do you shift your hand within a given position every minute or two? So if you're in the drops do you adjust your grip slightly so the weight is elsewhere?
3. As asked before do you "grip" your bars or just gently grasp them?

If I rode improperly I can get my hands numb in a few minutes. Riding properly I can go 6-8 hours without any problems. In very intense races on extremely rough roads and with the threat of crashes all over the place (Harlem Crit) depending on my fitness I've done 10-15 minutes without any hand numbness to the whole race without numbness.

What's interesting is that I used the Ritchey adjustable stem when I was coming down from a peak weight of 215+ lbs @5'7" (late 2003). I bought a size M Giant because the smaller frames I had were too short up front - my gut prevented me from leaning over like normal, i.e. like the prior 19 seasons I raced. I went to a size S Giant when I was down to a svelte 190 lbs (heh). I used the adjustable stem to verify that I could get the bars properly positioned.

Then in 2009-2010 I finally ordered a custom frame. I'd never ridden a properly fit bike before and I was a bit nervous ordering a frame that would increase my reach (think of increasing stem length) by 5-6 cm. It'd be like going from a 12 cm stem to a 17 or 18 cm stem. The bars also came down a touch, maybe 1 cm. I used the same parts as my prior bike so the bars, saddle, post, wheels, even tires were the same.

My primary worry was that my hands would go numb quicker due to the extensive increase in reach. I built up my bike while out in SoCal at my then-annual training camp. After a shakedown ride I started cranking out 3-6 hour rides like I normally do out there (at home I rarely ride more than an hour or two at a time). I was pleasantly surprised to find that I had no problems with numb hands etc. I had to get used to the extra reach but otherwise the bike worked so well I ordered a second frame (and they are my primary and backup bikes now).

So why didn't increasing my reach by 5-6 cm and dropping the bars by 1 cm give me numb hands? Because I practiced "good hand position management". Although I spend most of my time training on the drops, especially on longer rides (due to a bad back it's more comfortable to be in the drops or sitting totally upright i.e. no hands), I adjust the pressure points minutely all the time. When doing longer climbs (the whole length of Palomar Mountain takes me 2 hours, give or take) I climb on the hoods or the tops, again minutely or coarsely adjusting grip regularly.

Core work helps too but honestly I haven't do much core work in the last couple years and my hands are no different. I've thrown out my back twice recently but my hands are fine

AdelaaR

I've had very bad experience with adjustable stems.
They seemed okay at first, but started creaking and slightly moving after a while, which couldn't be helped by tightening.
It probably depends on individual riding style.
More relaxed riders with high handlebars may not have this problem, but for more aggressive riding, with more force on the handlebar, I wouldn't recommend them.

I like free

I'm with others betting it's not a stem issue. Poor fit has usually showed up for me in sore shoulders, back, and neck. But my take on finger numbness is this:
1. It was worse when I started riding. I think mainly because I was doing my best to just hang on and I gripped the living H**L out of my bars. I think I was making up for weak legs by straining my upper body.

2. Lose the jewelry if you wear any. Had to quit wearing my wedding ring for some time because my fingers would swell and it would get worse.

3. Look at hood angle. Make sure your hands aren't cocked back.

Even after all that if you work in a profession that is prone to carpal tunnel you may want to look at excercises and stretches.

rpenmanparker 

As I always say (must be 10 or 12 times a day), "Better a pedant than a fool like you."

Yukking it up, aren't you? Give it a rest dude. Someone asks for help. Help is sincerely offered. If you don't agree with the facts, say so. But showing your dislike for useful experience, knowledge and learning hardly does you credit. Judging from the quality and style of your drawing I would say you spend too much time in restroom stalls. Can't get much riding done in there. Or can you?

oespinoza83

I rode with a co-worker who had an adjustable stem. I could only stand riding with him for about 10 minutes and then dropped him. The effin noise that thing made was horrid. He soon bought a regular stem.

gc3

Superbest Pedant

#t=4

rpenmanparker 

My hero!

99Klein 

Wow, you people must have seen some REALLY cheap adjustable stems or they were not properly greased (you have to grease the splines as they don't last long dry and may make noise) or something. I ride hard and am 240+ pounds. I bought mine to dial in the exact fit I need and will replace it. The ONLY issue I have is a tiny bit of play up and down if you jerk on the bars.

Would I want to ride with one the rest of my life? No. Do I find it annoying in any way? No. It's a tool!!!

drjay9051

Thanks for all the help. Long story short: borrowed an adjustable to get "dialed in". Than purchased a 3T 17 degree. Works like a charm.

Again: appreciate all the help.