Sweet spot gravel tire width?
#26
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I was running 42s on smooth hard gravel on a current generation high-end gravel/endurance bike. Was like riding a farm tractor. I swapped the tires out for slick 32s pumped up harder, and noticed a definite improvement in speed and cornering.
Final test was going back to my old steel road bike with 23's pumped up hard, and was impressed on how much faster this setup was. Overall bike weights and fit was about the same, although the wheels and tires on the vintage road setup were much much lighter and more responsive. Obviously not for loose conditions. If you go fast enough, the narrow tires just plane over the little stuff.
If I was riding real gravel, then I'd save myself a whole bunch of fuss and money and pull out my 1991 Rocky Mountain with 26" wheels and 2" tires.
Final test was going back to my old steel road bike with 23's pumped up hard, and was impressed on how much faster this setup was. Overall bike weights and fit was about the same, although the wheels and tires on the vintage road setup were much much lighter and more responsive. Obviously not for loose conditions. If you go fast enough, the narrow tires just plane over the little stuff.
If I was riding real gravel, then I'd save myself a whole bunch of fuss and money and pull out my 1991 Rocky Mountain with 26" wheels and 2" tires.
As for "harder is faster", this isn't supported by science. Harder is faster up to a point, but there is a break point where increased pressure becomes slower at a much quicker rate. You're actually better off running a little under optimum pressure than you are being over optimum pressure. The rougher the surface, the lower the optimum pressure.
https://silca.cc/blogs/silca/part-4b...-and-impedance
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#27
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When doing Ravel and Gravel I am most comfortable between 38mm to 34mm. If I need anything more then its time to go to a Mountain Bike. I have never ridden a True modern day specific Gravel Bike. Just my old beaters. The new Gravel bikes certainly do look real nice.
And for the new Mountain Bikes I have one word, "Complex".
And for the new Mountain Bikes I have one word, "Complex".
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My gravel bike is currently running 42mm S-works Pathfinder Pros. I was aiming for a fast rolling set up with these and it does that well...these are a really great set up for light gravel or a gravel/road mix. In the future, I might set up another wheel set with 2.0" XC MTB tires...more specifically, the Continental Race Kings(if they'll actually fit.) Not to get too nerdy but, these tires test faster than most gravel tires on the rolling resistance website...I run the 2.2" version on my XC bike and can confirm that they are fast, but with better traction.
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#30
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Wide tires aren't just for mountain bikes. All the newest iterations of gravel bikes (and a lot of cross bikes) have quite generous clearances. Throw some meaty rubber on there and go have fun people!
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I run 700x38c Specialized Tracers and they feel perfect for road riding to single track.
#32
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When doing Ravel and Gravel I am most comfortable between 38mm to 34mm. If I need anything more then its time to go to a Mountain Bike. I have never ridden a True modern day specific Gravel Bike. Just my old beaters. The new Gravel bikes certainly do look real nice.
And for the new Mountain Bikes I have one word, "Complex".
And for the new Mountain Bikes I have one word, "Complex".
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#33
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I was running 42s on smooth hard gravel on a current generation high-end gravel/endurance bike. Was like riding a farm tractor. I swapped the tires out for slick 32s pumped up harder, and noticed a definite improvement in speed and cornering.
Final test was going back to my old steel road bike with 23's pumped up hard, and was impressed on how much faster this setup was. Overall bike weights and fit was about the same, although the wheels and tires on the vintage road setup were much much lighter and more responsive. Obviously not for loose conditions. If you go fast enough, the narrow tires just plane over the little stuff.
If I was riding real gravel, then I'd save myself a whole bunch of fuss and money and pull out my 1991 Rocky Mountain with 26" wheels and 2" tires.
Final test was going back to my old steel road bike with 23's pumped up hard, and was impressed on how much faster this setup was. Overall bike weights and fit was about the same, although the wheels and tires on the vintage road setup were much much lighter and more responsive. Obviously not for loose conditions. If you go fast enough, the narrow tires just plane over the little stuff.
If I was riding real gravel, then I'd save myself a whole bunch of fuss and money and pull out my 1991 Rocky Mountain with 26" wheels and 2" tires.
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#34
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I prefer to refer to a road and light gravel ride as a "groad" ride. I normally hate when different words are combined to make a new word, but "groad" sounds dirty to me for some reason, and I like that about it.
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My short Torn Up Asphalt rides can be tough no matter what bike I am ridding. And honestly I am just happy to still be riding...
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#36
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I really do get your concern. You are right. But what people called Gravel Bikes years ago seem to no longer qualify. Same thing going with Mountain Bikes and those rare Steel Road Bikes. I think its what roads ya ride and not necessarily what bike you are riding on it. I dont ride Gravel Roads but I do ride Ravel Roads. In many areas Ravel roads abound. Maybe I should just call my bikes Torn Up Asphalt Bikes.
My short Torn Up Asphalt rides can be tough no matter what bike I am ridding. And honestly I am just happy to still be riding...
My short Torn Up Asphalt rides can be tough no matter what bike I am ridding. And honestly I am just happy to still be riding...
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#37
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There's an argument going on in long distance about what to call the surface on an unpaved trail. Now we're arguing about what to call gravel bikes?
Is nothing sacred?
Is nothing sacred?
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