vane171

I got me a 'new' (secondhand) bike that I plan to transport by air come this spring and that involves detaching the handlebars from the bike. By modern, I mean that I am only familiar with the classic stem setup where the fork bearing adjustment is completely independent of the mounting of the bars. You can remove complete stem with the bars for shipping and the fork stays 'tuned up' in the bearings.

I looked up the modern bike setup and it seems my understanding how one prepares the bike for shipping was probably faulty. Somehow I came to believe that people undo the two screws holding the stem on the fork column. I even asked the guy I bought the bike from if he knows how to go about it since I thought he might know and who better to ask than somebody who handled this modern technology for ten years... and he said you just undo the top center pre-load bolt in the cup and those two screws securing the stem to the fork's neck... it was only in passing we talked about this. Anyway, now that I looked up those various guides that show how the headset is assembled, it appears to me that that's not a way of doing it since that would mean the fork would drop out from the bike's head tube unless I secured it with some quick tie or something. It seems silly to go about it like that.

Isn't the proper way to get the bike ready for the shipping crate to undo those two screws that hold the handlebar's round tube? As in this picture.



Also, as I was investigating that stem attachment system, I found that most bikes have those spacer rings that look fairly solid vs the thin CF sleeve (or tube) on my bike. It looks like only 1/16th of an inch thick and that strikes me as a bit flimsy to hold the fork bearing under proper tension. But obviously, it must be OK since it works (the main load is held by the bottom bearing race, the top only maintains some light tension in the bearings).

Also, the fork while being CF, the neck of it looks to be aluminum tube. Does that mean, if I release the stem from the fork tube, I don't need to be as careful when it comes to screw tightening torque? Do some forks actually have CF tube neck?
I attach a photo of my stem setup.


BTW I already bought new screws to replace those rusted. However the rust only looks so bad because of the close up, normally you don't notice it too much. I could only get those screws with black tapered heads in titanium, not steel which I wouldn't mind (as I asked about on another thread here on BF a while back).

Andrew R Stewart 

Yes, the usual first try to remove bars for packing is by removing them from the stem, modern stems generally have a two bolt face plate so this is easy to do. However if the stem is really tall or the box is small then the stem could angle up too far to allow the box to be closed well. So sometimes removing the stem from the steerer is the better way to pack the bike. Of course when removing the stem the headset will need readjusting on reinstalling. A good tip is to place a strip of masking tape along side the stem/bars clamp and mark where the stem/faceplate gap is to be able to set the bars at the same angle the first time

Steerer spacers (also called stem spacers) are under compression and don't need to be very strong, just not get crushed by the headset preload amount. Pretty much every commercially available spacer that I have come across meets this standard. Home made ones maybe not...

Carbon steerers don't like to be compressed too much by the stem/steerer clamp. This along with the small diameter (read as fine threads) bolts is why there's torque specs and the suggested use of a torque wrench. AL steerers (and steel too) are far more crush resistant as well as won't have splintering top ends from heavy handed cutting methods. Another tip is to lightly lube the steerer surface where the spacers go to reduce the corrosion as water/sweat can get trapped between the spacer and steerer and become galvanically fused together.

As to the unasked question about boxing and shipping do your homework well. Some carriers won't honor damage claims if the item was only single boxed. Also airlines are famous for their ways to encourage some other method of transporting the bike other then as a added baggage item. Andy

vane171

Thank you for the exhaustive answer. The bike size is M, TT style frame to boot, so the stem is not too high and should fit the shipping box. I already started exercising upper body for flexibility and trimming some fat to get ready for this low cockpit.

Good tip about the grease, I already smear it lightly on my old bike in places where the sweat started corrosion. Also the reminder regarding the shipping, you seem to suggest that airline can refuse to take the box as second paid luggage? I will look into FEDEX shipping since I can ship to my brother address in Europe. That would be more convenient not having to travel with it.

I plan to use custom packing of my own. I bought 'duffel bag' that is sold for shipping bikes in soft bag and plan to insert into it two light insulating boards held apart by spacers. The frame should fit in between those boards. Once I start assembling the packing, I plan to post a pics of it here. I don't want to invest into one of those hard shell shipping boxes or rent one because this will be just one way shipping.

indyfabz

As for packing, you could pay a shop to do it. I find the expense worth it.

As for flying, will you be flying domestically in the US? If so, expect to pay something for the service. More is the total linear dimensions are over a certain figure. I’d buy FedEx shipping from BikeFlights.com rather that from FedEx directly if you want to save money.

vane171

It is oversea flight Canada to Europe. Normally one is allowed only one free luggage 23 Kg (plus onboard one, I think 5 or 12Kg?), for a second one I once paid $100 at the airport counter but that was several years ago. Last year, I was told it will be $200, that $100 it would be only if I paid it in advance online. And at the time, I bought ticket less than a week before departure and missed a day or two to book the luggage and then the online booking was closed. It might be useful for others here to know about these things to avoid such charges. Also, all of that is pre Covid info, who knows how things are now.
I'll look into the bikeflights, thanks for heads up.

topflightpro

Take the stem off at the steertube. This will be much easier to deal with in the long run. If you put the top cap back on, the fork won't fall out completely - it may fall some. Also, it can sometimes be easier to remove the fork for shipping. You can put all the headset parts in the proper order on the fork and install the top cap to keep them from falling off. (The Airport Ninja - one of the more popular travel cases - requires removing the fork.) As mentioned, you don't need a lot of force on the top cap to set the headset bearings. If you tighten things too much, the fork won't turn freely.

As for actually packing the bike, go to your local hardware store and buy pipe insulation. Cut pieces to fit each tube. You may need two different widths of insulation - one for downtube, toptube and steertube and one for chainstays and seatstays. Bubblewrap also is your friend.

indyfabz

Sorry. I meant ShipBikes.com. (Bikeflights switched to UPS a few years ago and service declined.) But it will likely not be cheaper than flying with it internationally.

vane171

I am not flying anytime soon, I think April or maybe May. It will depend how the situation with Covid at the destination end will develop.

topflightpro You have fitting forum nick, looks like you got some experience with packing the bike too. I have nice padding for the frame tubing, a while ago my employer here was installing new kitchen and it shipped with nice 'u' channel snap-on foam protection for the kitchen panel edges (blue in the picture) which I saved and now it comes handy. It is not foam like that pipe insulation but something even better, I will combine those channels with that pipe insulation you suggest since the frame is TT style, only the chain stays have something like round shape, everything else is aero flat shapes. I will use some distancing blocks between fork ends and use QR to secure their spacing.

Since I replaced BB after buying the bike and so have figured how that is mounted, also I didn't tighten everything quite fully as it should be, it will be easy to take pedal levers completely off and that way reduce the profile height of the bike for shipping, won't have to worry about the sharp teeth of the chain ring sticking out at the bottom near the package edge. Will take RD off its hanger and maybe just slam down the seat, if the seat tube will go fully inside the frame that is. Since it is one time shipping, I can afford to take it apart more than if you went to EU on a bike vacation.

From the foam sheets I will cut two 51"x32" pieces to go on the sides inside the bag and these two 'walls' will be held apart by spacers, details of which I might post tomorrow. The only thing I haven't quite figured out is how to keep the frame fixed in place in the middle of the package, so no part of it comes near the bag edge. I plan to use more of those spacers that will hold the two wall sides apart, to fix the frame triangle fixed that way inside...
I also have 2" thick sheets of that material and might use that to make bottom, top & sides strips from that. BTW the single 1" 4'x8' sheet cost ~$20 CAD, the 2" probably $30 if I recall it right. All in all I might spend some $100 on the shipping materials. I have other use for those 2" sheets or for leftovers of them, the foam is very light and quite robust.

Also at the destination I will find some use for the foam boards, even the bag will find some use in due time for something, even if only just storing some large picture in attic or something. The regular shipping hard shells are bulky, you can't fold them, un-necessarily too heavy duty to use for secondary storage and bother to re-sell. BTW I usually spend some 2/3s of the year in EU, so rental container would come too expensive, that's only for those who return in several weeks. Doubt there is rental box you can drop off at the destination, sort of like those U-Haul house moving rental trucks that you don't need to drive back.

The bag will give it professional look and it is some standard maximum size to take on airplanes I suppose, at least its sold for air shipping.

topflightpro

To keep the frame in place, try cutting some slits in one - or both - foam boards and run a strap through and tie the frame to one of the foam boards. You only need to do it at a couple of places - BB, rear drop out, ST/TT junction and headtube should suffice.

That foam on the top and bottom of the aero shaped tubes also should be good.

That bag looks fine, assuming you are providing your own padding. I've also used foam floor pads for bikes. Like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piec...set-94635.html. You can probably find these at most hardware stores.

Last thing to remember, if you are flying, there is a good chance someone is going to inspect your bike after you hand it off to the airline. There is a chance things will be moved around. If you can strap things together or make it very easy to pack/repack, that can help.

klasse

I have a bike box with a built in fork mount, so the bike stays in one place. Not the cheapest solution, of course, but solid. As to your question about how/what to disassemble, my experience with threadless is ---> remove the top cap, remove the stem (with the handlebar still attached to the stem), you likely have to loosen a brake cable. just wrap the stem/bar package in bubble wrap and let it sit next to the frame. For a threaded fork: just remove the stem/bar combo, same as above.

You can learn how to install a threadless top cap and stem with some YT videos and practice. Just pack some grease and a few tools in your bike box and you're good to go!

Doug64

This is how I prep our touring bike for shipping. They have a lot of air miles. The bike will fit in most bike boxes, free at most bike shops. Remove the front wheel, and it will slide right in the box. Depending where you are traveling from, some airports have boxes big enough to roll the bike into after removing the pedals and turning/removing the bars. Also ask your shop for some of the packing material they take of bikes shipped from the manufacturer: fork dropout spacer, wheel hub protectors, rear derailleur guard, etc. They usually will give them to you at no cost.



I installed a "locking headset spacer" on all our touring bikes. This saves time and headaches if you ship your bike often.
https://problemsolversbike.com/products/headset/locking_spacer_-_6788



If you are flying with your bike, go easy with the tape on the top of the box. The TSA folks will open the box for inspection. They will do a good job of taping after they are done.

Cougrrcj

This is how I packed a 25" (63cm) touring frame to travel 2500mi plus...









I would have removed the fork if I had the correct spanner...


.

vane171

That is a good idea, one I didn't think of. I thought to cut some length of heavy plastic tubing and use my QRs to secure the dropouts. Alternatively, I saw on Amazon cheap spindles with adjusting nuts and QR levers. I may still buy those since I could use them later to build a bike servicing bench (take wheels off and secure the bike in the QRs that are attached to the bench).



Seeing that cardboard shipping box in post above reminds me looking around for it last fall but none was available anywhere. One company I've seen in reviews seems to have stopped making them, but I will also ask about that in LBSs, if they have boxes from bikes shipped to them. But I think my bag scheme should do. I still have some two or more months to finish the job. Over time, I saved some nice pieces of packing material from shipping boxes when something was ordered online, not it will come handy.

As to opening at the airport for inspection, the advantage of the bag is it has zippers that allow easy peek inside. The bag doesn't have any padding, just strong heavy duty nylon bag. I have similar floor pads, like these except colored and for use in bathrooms (I think). Those are rather heavy I think.

I took pics of the spacers that would hold the two side walls apart. The tubing is hard plastic used for under floor water heating. At the ~8" or so length, they are quite rigid. The drywall picture screws fit nicely into the ends of that piping and the black distancing tubes are to prevent the foam board from being crushed but probably are not necessary since the foam is quite resilient and the blue washers are plenty big to distribute the screw pressure. BTW those are used to hold that knobby plastic sheet used for waterproofing foundation walls. I have many left over from some work done years ago.




Those spacers are very strong and light weight. In this last picture, I only slotted it from a side one on one of the panels. I plan to use 10 or 12 of these on the perimeter and several in the box middle, to go through the frame triangle and that way hold it suspended in the middle of the box, height and side wise. They will also keep the box firm in the middle section of it to prevent being crushed. On sides of the bike frame I will put some softer foam boards to keep it away from the box panel walls.

topflightpro

That's the way to pack it! By zip tying everything together, you assure that things don't move around or get messed up if TSA inspects it. You just have to make sure to pack enough zip ties to repack on the way home and something to open the ties - nail clippers work great for that.