What Are The Advantages Of Tubeless and Why.??
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#28
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nothing is perfect
Now there is an after market widget to go in your tubeless tires to protect your rim from damage, when your tubeless tire goes flat...
must have been a need perceived ..
REI stocks them..
...
must have been a need perceived ..
REI stocks them..
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 01-12-19 at 08:38 PM.
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Cushcore inserts are not there to protect the rim when a tubeless tire goes flat.
You can educate yourself here:
https://www.cushcore.com/
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Non omnino gravis
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For me the advantages of going tubeless were less flats. I seem to be changing tyres/tubes less frequently. I course now that I've said that I'm probably dooming myself to a summer of flats...
A major disadvantage though seems to be price. I feel like between the cost of the tyres, the goop, the wheels, etc. that I'm paying slightly more for my setup than a regular tyre/tube setup. But maybe I'm just not aware of where to get the deals. And if that is the case, hopefully someone here will enlighten me on where to go.
A major disadvantage though seems to be price. I feel like between the cost of the tyres, the goop, the wheels, etc. that I'm paying slightly more for my setup than a regular tyre/tube setup. But maybe I'm just not aware of where to get the deals. And if that is the case, hopefully someone here will enlighten me on where to go.
#34
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When I lived in cactus country the tires were lined with Mr. Tuffy tire liners and had no issues. Tubeless with sealant is a bonus for dealing with goat heads and similar puncture producing agents, however for most situations it is not necessary.
Don't see the purpose of running 15-20 psi in a 29er tire as traction was not at all horrible at 28 psi. In fact it was quite nice. I'd rather run higher psi anyway as I like the faster roll. I charge a lot to deal with setting up tubeless and fixing them when they flat because it is a royal PIA.
Don't see the purpose of running 15-20 psi in a 29er tire as traction was not at all horrible at 28 psi. In fact it was quite nice. I'd rather run higher psi anyway as I like the faster roll. I charge a lot to deal with setting up tubeless and fixing them when they flat because it is a royal PIA.
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I run tubeless in my gravel bike because all the cool kids do it. They're cool for a reason.
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I smashed a rim and the tubeless system didn't flat.
40 mm tires at 35 PSI. Ran into a pot hole and felt the rim bottom out on the edge of the hole as I exited.
I rode another 16 miles of mixed singletrack and pavement like this. It was still 35 PSI when I got home. I could air it up and ride it right now if I wanted.
40 mm tires at 35 PSI. Ran into a pot hole and felt the rim bottom out on the edge of the hole as I exited.
I rode another 16 miles of mixed singletrack and pavement like this. It was still 35 PSI when I got home. I could air it up and ride it right now if I wanted.
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p.s. plugging a flat tubeless tire is quick and easy. Faster than putting in a tube.
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I smashed a rim and the tubeless system didn't flat.
40 mm tires at 35 PSI. Ran into a pot hole and felt the rim bottom out on the edge of the hole as I exited.
I rode another 16 miles of mixed singletrack and pavement like this. It was still 35 PSI when I got home. I could air it up and ride it right now if I wanted.
40 mm tires at 35 PSI. Ran into a pot hole and felt the rim bottom out on the edge of the hole as I exited.
I rode another 16 miles of mixed singletrack and pavement like this. It was still 35 PSI when I got home. I could air it up and ride it right now if I wanted.
You can also avoid this kind of damage by unweighting the saddle when you go into that pot hole.
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One of the advantages of a tubeless setup is that the proper pressure is lower than the same setup with a tube.
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The cushcore product you linked to illustrates a number of problems with tubeless that can be solved by adding what is essentially a solid tire inside the tubeless one.
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As far as road bike tires/rims; how do tubeless tires and current spec lightweight rims compare to an old set of Mavic GL330s (or the modern equivalent) with modern light weight competition tubulars as far as overall weight?
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I can run my tubeless MTB tires at 20 psi, 28 psi,40 psi, etc. The difference between those pressures will be the varying amount of grip and rolling resistance (including the increased deflection associated with higher pressures).
I can run my gravel tires at 35, 45, 60 psi The difference between those pressures will be the varying amount of grip and rolling resistance (including the increased deflection associated with higher pressures).
My kid runs his 26mm tubeless road tires at 95psi. The manufacturer lists the psi range at 90-115.
Re: Cushcore
Never used it and haven't ever encountered the "problems"/marketing talking points that they describe.
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If it is "false" then why did you say it? You are the one that said "the proper pressure is lower than the same setup with a tube." This article backs that up and states quite clearly that the tubeless pressure is 85% of the tubed pressure. They don't give the reason behind it but it's because the tube increases friction and holds the bead in place while only pressure holds a tubeless bead in place.
And that says what? I can run tubed tires at the same pressure for the same reasons. I choose not to because I value my wheels. I also don't find flat tires...and 20psi is definitely "flat"...all that enjoyable to ride. I most assuredly don't find the rolling resistance to decrease at 20psi over 40 psi. I don't think you can find a chart that would say that nor is riding at 20 psi done to decrease rolling resistance on mountain bikes. More grip is more rolling resistance.
Many people have. Burped tires and blipped rims are things I've seen on many tubeless rims. TimothyH's rim damage above is a very good example of a common tubeless problem...mostly caused by riding flat tires.
I can run my tubeless MTB tires at 20 psi, 28 psi,40 psi, etc. The difference between those pressures will be the varying amount of grip and rolling resistance (including the increased deflection associated with higher pressures).
I can run my gravel tires at 35, 45, 60 psi The difference between those pressures will be the varying amount of grip and rolling resistance (including the increased deflection associated with higher pressures).
I can run my gravel tires at 35, 45, 60 psi The difference between those pressures will be the varying amount of grip and rolling resistance (including the increased deflection associated with higher pressures).
Many people have. Burped tires and blipped rims are things I've seen on many tubeless rims. TimothyH's rim damage above is a very good example of a common tubeless problem...mostly caused by riding flat tires.
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I didn't say "tubeless have to be run at lower pressure due to the physics of how the tire and bead interact"
I merely noted that the proper pressure (i.e. the best pressure in terms of grip and rolling resistance) is lower for a tubeless setup. That's because you can run tubeless at lower pressures without snake biting.
It refutes your crazy claim that tubeless tires "Have to be run at lower pressures."
As does the fact that my kid's tubeless road tires don't have to be run at lower pressures.
etc. etc.
I can run tubed tires at the same pressure for the same reasons. I choose not to because I value my wheels. I also don't find flat tires...and 20psi is definitely "flat"...all that enjoyable to ride. I most assuredly don't find the rolling resistance to decrease at 20psi over 40 psi. I don't think you can find a chart that would say that nor is riding at 20 psi done to decrease rolling resistance on mountain bikes. More grip is more rolling resistance.
My tubeless 32c tires may be "flat" at 20 psi yet my 2.5 tubeless MTB tires on 35 id rims, at my weight, are far from flat. They're very enjoyable to ride with less rolling resistance (tire conforms to trail irregularities rather than deflecting). In many years of pounding through the chunk at speed I've never had a rim strike at 20 psi, or lower.
What you apparently fail to understand is that tubeless psi, like tubed psi, really depends on rim width, tire size/volume, casing type, and rider weight.
That's why the manufacturer of my 700c gravel rims recommends starting tubeless psi of between 18-67 psi. Those variations vary by weight and tire volume.
Last edited by balut bandit; 01-15-19 at 10:15 AM.
#45
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There's good information here on what a pinch flat is but what they haven't told you is that it's something that can be avoided by using the proper pressure in your tires. Sure, tubeless eliminates pinch flats but so does proper inflation. As an added bonus, you don't ruin wheels like below.
That is a ruined wheel. Good luck on getting it to seal if you have to change the tire. And therein lies the problem with running tubeless at such low pressures. Yes, you can get away with it so you can get a cushy ride but you can end up with expensive repair. I see lots of mountain bikes with severely blipped tubeless rims for exactly the same reason as yours was blipped. I seldom see other wheels...mountain or road...that are blipped because people who use tubes have to keep them inflated.
You can also avoid this kind of damage by unweighting the saddle when you go into that pot hole.
That is a ruined wheel. Good luck on getting it to seal if you have to change the tire. And therein lies the problem with running tubeless at such low pressures. Yes, you can get away with it so you can get a cushy ride but you can end up with expensive repair. I see lots of mountain bikes with severely blipped tubeless rims for exactly the same reason as yours was blipped. I seldom see other wheels...mountain or road...that are blipped because people who use tubes have to keep them inflated.
You can also avoid this kind of damage by unweighting the saddle when you go into that pot hole.
It is true that the wheel is ruined. ProWheelBuilder is lacing a new rim this afternoon.
Given the hole, no amount of unweighting would have saved this wheel. I noticed last night that the highway dept had filled the hole. I wanted to get a photo.
Mountain bikers wheels are dented because they beat the crud out of their bikes - jump off cliffs, run into rocks, etc. I ride this bike hard and am surprised the wheels have lasted as long as it has.
-Tim-
Last edited by TimothyH; 01-15-19 at 10:59 AM.
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I didn't say "tubeless have to be run at lower pressure due to the physics of how the tire and bead interact"
I merely noted that the proper pressure (i.e. the best pressure in terms of grip and rolling resistance) is lower for a tubeless setup. That's because you can run tubeless at lower pressures without snake biting.
I merely noted that the proper pressure (i.e. the best pressure in terms of grip and rolling resistance) is lower for a tubeless setup. That's because you can run tubeless at lower pressures without snake biting.
It refutes your crazy claim that tubeless tires "Have to be run at lower pressures."
This paragraph highlights your myopia when it comes to tubeless setups, and mountain biking as well.
My tubeless 32c tires may be "flat" at 20 psi yet my 2.5 tubeless MTB tires on 35 id rims, at my weight, are far from flat. They're very enjoyable to ride with less rolling resistance (tire conforms to trail irregularities rather than deflecting). In many years of pounding through the chunk at speed I've never had a rim strike at 20 psi, or lower.
What you apparently fail to understand is that tubeless psi, like tubed psi, really depends on rim width, tire size/volume, casing type, and rider weight.
That's why the manufacturer of my 700c gravel rims recommends starting tubeless psi of between 18-67 psi. Those variations vary by weight and tire volume.
My tubeless 32c tires may be "flat" at 20 psi yet my 2.5 tubeless MTB tires on 35 id rims, at my weight, are far from flat. They're very enjoyable to ride with less rolling resistance (tire conforms to trail irregularities rather than deflecting). In many years of pounding through the chunk at speed I've never had a rim strike at 20 psi, or lower.
What you apparently fail to understand is that tubeless psi, like tubed psi, really depends on rim width, tire size/volume, casing type, and rider weight.
That's why the manufacturer of my 700c gravel rims recommends starting tubeless psi of between 18-67 psi. Those variations vary by weight and tire volume.
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Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#47
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Given the hole, no amount of unweighting would have saved this wheel. I noticed last night that the highway dept had filled the hole. I wanted to get a photo.
Mountain bikers wheels are dented because they beat the crud out of their bikes - jump off cliffs, run into rocks, etc. I ride this bike hard and am surprised the wheels have lasted as long as it has.
-Tim-
Mountain bikers wheels are dented because they beat the crud out of their bikes - jump off cliffs, run into rocks, etc. I ride this bike hard and am surprised the wheels have lasted as long as it has.
-Tim-
I also see a lot of wheels...hundreds to thousands per year...at my local co-op. Few of the mountain bike rims that have been used with tubed tires have damaged rims...some but not a lot. On the other hand, most of the tubeless mountain bike rims I see are indeed “beat to crud”.
And, to be clear, I’m not a timid rider. I bomb downhills as fast as I’m able.
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Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
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Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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This thread is a wealth of misinformation about tires and wheels in general and tubeless in particular.
I would encourage the OP to speak with individuals who actually ride tubeless day in and day out.
-Tim-
I would encourage the OP to speak with individuals who actually ride tubeless day in and day out.
-Tim-