russian fighter

I just bought a new Marin Muirwoods. I've added handlebar extensions. Most people who've posted have mentioned they've upgraded their "hybrid" bikes after purchase. I'm mostly doing a short commute and general city riding--nothing off road. I'd like to do some longer rides eventually, but nothing too crazy. Any common suggestions you could share?
Wheels seem to be the big one: what's the difference b/w 26" and 700C? And why aren't both measured w/the same metric? Thanks in advance...

joejack951

I wouldn't worry about upgrading wheels unless yours can't handle the abuse you are subjecting them too or you've got money to burn and want to unload some. To make my MTB commuter worthy, I added slicks, bar ends, a rack, and replaced my suspension fork with a rigid one from Surly. I have a 10W front headlight and two rear LED lights. If your tires are pretty smooth, I'd just use them until they wear out then replace with some slicker if you aren't going offroad at all. I couldn't imagine not having a rack any more so I'd highly suggest one although others will disagree. Lights for me are a necessity because I sometimes don't come straight home from work and/or ride in the rain. In the winter, it'll be dark before I even leave work too.

26" is a standard MTB size wheel and 700C is a standard road bike wheel. 700C wheels are a little taller than 26" MTB wheels.

CBBaron

What he said. The "upgrades" I might consider is fenders, rack, lights, better tires, and a saddle. Adding fenders, a rack and lights is usually a very good idea for a regular commuter. Most stock tires are either too knobby and/or not very durable. I perfer upgrading to a smoother tire with good puncture protection. As for a saddle, saddles are very personal but most hybrid bikes seem to come with very cheap seats that are not very comfortable for longer rides. If you are uncomfortable consider trying different saddles until you find what works best (Brooks saddles seem to have a very strong following).
The rest of the parts just ride until they begin to fail, then replace.
Craig

russian fighter

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm going to do the fenders and the lights. I'll just ride out my tires. I assume the 700c offer a different feel?

As for the rack--why do you prefer it to a backpack? Is it just a comfort thing, or are there relevant differences in the ride quality of backpack v. rack?

Marylandnewbie

I would agree that a rack and fenders are the best upgrades to a commuter hybrid. I have used a backpack on occasion and find that when lightly loaded the only drawback to the backpack is a sweaty back. Under heavy loads the backpack begins to hurt your back, more so the longer the distance. I am a fairly large guy so even loaded I don't find a backpack affects my balance significantly. That might not be true for a lighter rider with a heavy backpack. The rack also gives you wider options for carrying odd stuff home.

Lighting is important if you ride once it gets dark. You can go homebuilt of buy off the shelf -- you'll need to think about whether your lights will be there so you can be seen or if you're going to need light to see the road. If you need lights to see, the price of off the shelf goes way up. When buying lights also consider how much time you'll spend on the round trip so that you can get a light setup with enough battery life.

After that upgrades are less urgent and less universal. Some people riding on MUPs might find a bell useful. Water bottles are nice if your ride is reasonably long and you ride through the heat of summer.

Wheels4

i added a water bottle/cage, aero bars and bar ends on my hybrid. if you're commute is a short one... you might skip the aero bars. it's really comfortable now with the aeros though. would like to add panniers/rack and maybe fenders... really not too sure about the fenders.

i'd like to get some tires smaller than 700 x 35 but i'm waiting until i actually wear these out... then i'll go to 28 or smaller.

Rich

unkchunk

Also consider getting a bell. One that is small and simple so it won't catch on anyting and pull off. Most rides I'll encounter at least one person who is wandering into my path. Also sometimes pedestrians walking straight along the road will get startled and jump in my path from a reflex action. Bikes can be quiet and sneak up on people. It's not like honking a horn saying "get out of my way", it's more of a gentle adivsory that a bike is in the area.

IMO, A bell would be the first thing to get. Followed by lights and blinkies (especially this time of year), then fenders and if you're using a back pack then you don't need a rack.

slagjumper

I use the Planet bike Hardcore fenders, I dont have a front shock on the commuter. Make sure that you get the right size for your tires.



Bell or air zound or both


I can get by with an axiom trunk, its sides fold out to make panniers. But I can't fit an 11 shoe in the things. I leave most things I need at work.


You'll need a lock, and front and rear lights too.


I use something like this:

and

MichaelW

A rear luggage rack (with pannier bags) turns your bike into a real workhorse capable of hauling groceries etc with ease. It adds little weight and also provides a useful point for resting the bbike aginst hard objects. I carry my U lock on top of the rack secured with a bungie chord.
If your pedals can take toe clips, these will make your ride a lot more efficieent for very little cost. Use them lose for safety.

russian fighter

Thanks everybody. I appreciate the suggestions. Sounds like you can spend quite a bit on gear after the bike purchase. The aero handlebar extensions seem to be the most urgent need for me---I took the bike for a 50mile ride yesterday and by mile 25 my hands were uncomfortable. A new saddle also seems in order.

mooklekloon

I have similar suggestions.

Rack/pannier(s) are by far the best thing I've bought. I'm one of those people that used to commute with a backpack, but will never go "back" after trying panniers.

I picked up a Selle Italia Prolink saddle used (but in amazing condition) for $20CAD. Also an amazing purchase.

I can't survive without my bar-ends. I got some nice dimondback stubby ones and use them for at least a few miles everyday. I really like the short ones because I can rest on the ends, and they look kick-a**.

You might also want to get some reflective strips, red for the back, white/silver for the front.

Other than that, what everyone else said is pretty standard. Bells, lights, fenders, lock, water bottle/cage, etc. With lights you have to decide what your goal is: to see or be seen. There is a big difference. I rarely commute where the road isnt well lit so I just have a lot of blinkys. If you need to see on dark roads, you might want a high power headlamp.

Ummm... seat bag is also good. These are the basics, as you commute you will find out what you need.

dynaryder

Nothing wrong with 26" wheels. They're generally a little tougher than 700's,the wider tires soak up bumps better,and they give you a tighter turning radius. Also,since your bike was designed for 26's,700's might have clearance issues due to the larger diameter.

grolby

When it comes to wheels, 26" are fine. If you want to be faster, you can always get skinnier tires, but you won't notice much difference with 700C wheels. As for the different measuring systems, they are a result of the evolution of different standards in different parts of world. 26" (ISO 559mm) wheels were popular on American balloon-tire bikes like Schwinns for many years. I can't tell you how these wheels were measured, but those balloon-tire bicycles were the first bikes to be used for mountain bike-style off-road riding in the US. When the first purpose-built MTBs were built in the late '70s and early '80s, they stuck with the 26" wheels and wide tires - the latter for obvious reasons, the former probably because there was a large selection of big tires available to use with them (really wide 27" or 700C tires were extremely rare back then, and they still don't go as wide).

700C tires (ISO 622mm) are only one size out of many in a French wheel and tire-sizing system (less well-known sizes include 650B, or 650A, etc). The first number refers to the nominal outside diameter of the wheel with the tire mounted, the second letter refers to the width. I think that A was wide, B was medium and C narrow, but I'm not 100% certain. Anyway, 700C wheels were pretty rare in the US for a long time, being found mostly on French bicycles (maybe Italian bikes too?). Since the late 80s or early 90s, however, 700C wheels have pretty much superceded the American 27" size and become the de facto road wheel standard. "700C" as a designation now doesn't actually make much sense, since they're available in a wide range of widths, which also changes the outside diameter of the tire (fatter tires have a greater diameter). For this reason, I prefer the ISO system of tire sizing, which sizes wheels by the bead set diameter of the rim in millimeters. The width is also given in millimeters. A 26 X 1.25" tire under the ISO system is 32 X 559mm.

As for the different wheel sizes themselves, there is nothing inherently superior about either size. Bigger wheels can roll over obstacles with less of a jolt to the rider, but the size difference between 26" and 700C wheels is small enough that tire width is a much bigger factor. Bigger wheels also mean a higher gear for a given chainring/rear cog combination, but this is only a real concern for a powerful racer trying to get the absolute most possible speed out of his 53/11. For the rest of us, gearing can be adjusted to compensate. Finally, if you ask me, the greatest benefit of different wheel sizes lies in the area of proportional sizing of bicycle frames. If you have a tall person and a short person riding the same bicycle, the tall person might be best served by a frame designed for 700C wheels, while the short person might be better served by one designed for 26" wheels, as this makes it easier to preserve the same geometry and handling characteristics in the smaller frame. With the same wheel size, the builder may be forced to make compromises to frame geometry in order to make it small enough for the rider.

Anyway, sorry, that's kind of a long post, but you did ask!

wheezl

I am upgrading a Muirwoods that I bought in March. The 2005 came with some seriously wimpy spokes which between NYC potholes and my lardass (185lbs) broke at a fantastic clip. Other than that what everyone else is saying is true. Lights, and fenders are first. Racks if you don't like to carry stuff on your back. I found the stock kevlar tires to be acceptable if not awesome.

Personally I am tearing mine down, putting 700c (622)wheels with some Conti Gatorskins or Bontrager Hardcase tires. Caliper brakes, a new stem, Bullhorn Handlebars with TT bar end brake levers, blah, blah, blah.

I just stopped riding it after I got my roadie and it was sitting in the corner. So to keep the roadbike nice I am fixing up the muirwoods and putting the roadie on a trainer when the winter comes.

I hope to fit some Nokian 700x35 Hakkapeliitta W106 studded tires when the icy stuff starts.

Dchiefransom

I like the curved bar ends. They give two more hand positions instead of one.

russian fighter

Thanks! I do appreciate the insight. I've learned a lot.

russian fighter

How about a picture of your upgraded bike? I'd like to see how it looks.

wheezl

Whose?

russian fighter

Yours, Wheezl, por favor.

wheezl

Ahh! still waiting for the parts, which are supposed to show up friday. If I am not too busy this weekend I'll put it all together and take a picture or two.