gomango

Pure genius.

That baby would be tough.

neo_pop_71

Yep! That sounds like a fine marriage of components!

Anyone have anything similar built up that can weight in on the performance?

thirdgenbird

My dad had a similar setup on his tandem for a while. The only difference was he used a Hugi hub with an 8spd campy cassette. The campy 8 with a 7spd WF is well proven though. Both have the exact same 5mm c-c cog spacing. Just set the upper limit screw and you will never know there is an extra click.

Aemmer

Are you sure it is 120? My 83 Stumpy was 130? Possibly someone re spaced it? Pretty sure Mike Synard copied the specs from the early Ritchey frames to the tee. Posted the question to Charlie Kelly once asking if my 81 Ritchey was originally 126 or it's current 130 and he let me know that even the very early Ritcheys were 130.

81 Ritchey 130:



83 130:

Chrome Molly

I've also found that you can pretty reliably also swap in a 7 speed freewheel with new campy 10 speed controls shimergoed. .21mm per cog over 3 cogs doesn't really impact the shifting performance (two thirds of a mm is within the realm of play that 7/8 speed chains are OK with).

Aemmer

WTB shift pods. They have been out of production since I think the early 90's.

WTB dirt drop bars.
WTB LD stem.
WTB shift pods.
WTB cable hanger.
Campy headset.
Campy brakes.
XT thumbies.

All wrapped up in a (dirty) cloth wrap.

Not sure what I was thinking when I went with white hoods, wrap, saddle and housing. Some day I will replace it with a cleaner black.

striknein

I can confirm that my 1983 Stumpy Sport XT is also spaced 130mm.

frantik

DO WANT! the kelly take offs are cool but those look even better, plus then u dont end up having to track down downtube shifters and end up with left over thumbies

Aemmer

Absolutely like the WTB setup.
Some day I would like to try the Kelly takeoffs on a different project.

frantik

Yes I've been considering trying the take offs for a while but I need to track down a source for the appropriate shimano adapter. I wish I could find those WTB pods though

inkandsilver

Wow, these photos are making me jealous. From this distance, at least, it looks like you have a pretty nice life!

cooperryder

I have a question I could use some help on regarding my freshly repainted Specialized Hardrock Comp.

The steering on this bike is off in some way.
All my other bikes are very stable and it's pretty simple to ride them 'no hands'.
They feel very stable.

This one is twitchy & it seems to overreact to steering input.

I have readjusted the Hatta headset 4 or 5 times now without improvement.

I have decided to just swap out to a decent used Tange Falcon headset & see if that makes a difference.

I keep wondering about what is throwing things off.
Bad bearings? Adjustment of headset? Bad front tire? Wheel issues?

I successfully used this same tire and wheel on another MTB I had.

The wheel spins pretty darn true and I cleaned & greased the wheel bearings about 4 months or so back.

I figured what better place to get some good input and ideas to check out
than from the folks on this thread.

Thanks.

mainstreetexile 

I'm thinking about upgrading the wheelset on my Cimarron (6-speed, 130mm deerhead/xt hub) to a newer wheelset (8-speed, 135mm).

Anybody know if I'll run into issues using an 11t small cog on a 11-32 rear cassette with a Deerhead/XT rear derailleur and 28/38/48 rings?

I don't imagine I'll have any issues putting the 135mm wheel in the 130mm dropouts, but if anybody knows of issues with that, I'd be interested in hearing about them too.

striknein

Just like long pull brakes offer more modulation than short pull, a longer stem will allow you to make much finer steering adjustment than a shorter stem. Another thing to consider is that your bike was probably setup with a much wider set of handlebars, which worked with the original stem to make the steering deliberate and predictable.

With such a short, tall stem, your steering will feel a lot more wobbly at low speed, though it should settle down as you pick up speed. This feeling can be amplified with such a large amount of trail, such that you typically find on vintage mountain bikes. You're probably just discovering the bike's unique personality.

Bikedued

I am about to do a drop bar conversion on a brand new bike I am about to order. It comes with eight speed, but I am going with 9 speed with 3x9 Tiagra STI's, with a 46cm FSA(probably) drop bar. cross levers will be mounted close to the corners, to be able to actually use the uprights while riding. Base bike is going to be a 2013 Hard Rock Sport disc 29. Yeah, it comes with hyrdraulic, but I am thinking of a set of BB7 Road calipers, so I can keep the cable operating Tiagra levers. It should be a FUN ride.,,,,BD

frantik

I can't say anything about your bike but my 1989 diamondback apex is similar.. very difficult to ride with no hands.. though the headset is a bit worn out and is indexing a bit which is one thing i've blamed it on

SeanBonham

My 83 stumpy was spaced at 126. I cold set it to 132ish.

anixi

Interesting...I would've set it to 135mm for modern 26" or hybrid 700c.

frantik

132 can be stretched to fit 135 or 130 and it's not as much cold setting

anixi

Not so fast, there, Frantik! My Fuji Sundance rear triangle is so stinking stiff that I couldn't safely "stretch" the 126mm to 130mm. It just was so much harder to spread by hand than any road bike I've ever had.
Ironically, it was super easy to cold set! Weird thing. The stays are super beefy, but, when I put the 2X4 to it, cold setting went way too far too easily. I went through a bunch of frustrating iterations before I got that sucker not only even, but to 130mm. Now it shouldn't move for the rest of its rough life...

frantik

well some bikes may be harder to spread than others i suppose.. 132.5 to 130 or 135 is 2.5mm vs 4mm for 126 to 130.. not a big difference but could be enough to make it tough...?

andyfloyd

Right on thanks for that. Looks like finding those WTB parts will be quite the challenge. Not cheap I assume?

frantik

^ if you can find vintage WTB they usually don't go for cheap, just cause they are rare and hard to find..

SeanBonham

Exactly. I am using 135 wheels.

Aemmer

The old WTB stuff has gotten to be a challenge to find. Took me about two years of ebay searches to find that LD. Got the shift pods from a fellow collector along with the hangar from a different friend. The bars come up on the bay often enough. Certainly have more in that cockpit than the rest of the bike combined. Worth it though. Pretty gratifying when it all came together, and I dig the way it rides. Someday I would like to find an old fillet brazed Potts to shift it over to.