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Ironman Information Thread

Old 12-13-19, 08:59 PM
  #476  
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Originally Posted by TXsailor View Post
I need one for the bike I am working on for my Daughter. Do you have a p/n or a source for one that works?
Hi TXS,
I don't have a part number..the one that I used did not have the key and I believe it was a MICHE brand?
Sorry, Ben
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Old 01-16-20, 08:21 PM
  #477  
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Awesome thread guys! Im gathering some great info about my recently acquired Carbon R. A buddy found it complete, less wheelset) a few months ago dumped outside his office. He knows I love a good project, so he tossed it my way. Its in great shape, and today I picked up a wheelset for it. Plan is to throw a chain and pedals on it tomorrow and gift it a test ride before tearing it all down for cleaning, re-clearing the Carbon, and polishing the aluminum before building it back up. Ill get some pics up once I hit 10 posts, lol.
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Old 01-16-20, 08:30 PM
  #478  
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Looking at my posts from four months ago... *sigh*

I'm not sure how you guys were so patient.
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Old 01-16-20, 09:53 PM
  #479  
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Originally Posted by TriBiker19 View Post
Looking at my posts from four months ago... *sigh*

I'm not sure how you guys were so patient.
That's why this is such a good forum.

And there are no zombie threads in C&V. Only classic and vintage threads dusted off for an overdue ride around the block.
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Old 01-16-20, 10:31 PM
  #480  
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^^^^^ +1; if the bike is older than the thread, you're fine.
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Old 02-18-20, 09:08 AM
  #481  
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Quick question here about geometry.

I've perused the thread a bit but there's a lot to go through, so can anyone confirm or correct this summary about seat tube angles?

1986-1988 74.5 STA
1989 73 STA

STA is a big factor in whether a bike will fit me or not.

Thanks!
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Old 02-19-20, 08:59 AM
  #482  
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post
I'm sure the numbers are out there, but whether the entire lineup conforms to some static numbers, I simply don't know.
They all ride the same to me from '86 on: like an Italian for 1/5 the price.
Thanks Robbie!

The only IMs that really tickle my fancy are the 87 and 88 Masters and Experts, especially the "Miami Vice" magenta, marine green & white, and the purple fade on the 88s.

Good to know that they should all pretty much be the same geo-wise.
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Old 02-21-20, 10:32 AM
  #483  
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1987 Miami Vice


New saddle and leather bar wrap.
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Old 02-21-20, 11:29 AM
  #484  
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post
Imagine if we could get a ton of them together. What a colorful lot that would be.
Yeah, so would the bikes......
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Old 02-21-20, 01:04 PM
  #485  
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Thanks!
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Old 02-25-20, 02:18 AM
  #486  
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post
Looks great. I like the wrap, but it also comes in that same yellow. Takes some searching.
Probably belongs more in the other Ironman thread, as this is mainly for data on the bike, to help those who want it/need it.
That other Ironman thread is like a greatest hit album.
a

Has anyone came up with a color code for the MV colors? I will need to do some touch up on mine & my sister in law's bikes and sure would like to paint a bottle cage the magenta color to go with the yellow on on the bike.
I'm also trying to figure out what I am going to do with the letters on the 105 crank set. Its worn partly off. I could polish it and do away with the letters or maybe reproduce the mat finish and somehow re stencil the letters back on.
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Old 02-25-20, 05:52 AM
  #487  
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Originally Posted by TXsailor View Post
a

Has anyone came up with a color code for the MV colors? I will need to do some touch up on mine & my sister in law's bikes and sure would like to paint a bottle cage the magenta color to go with the yellow on on the bike.
I'm also trying to figure out what I am going to do with the letters on the 105 crank set. Its worn partly off. I could polish it and do away with the letters or maybe reproduce the mat finish and somehow re stencil the letters back on.
The million dollar question. The catalog states it to be magenta, but that's like saying Blue.
I actually found what I thought was a perfect match to it however once I applied it it came out a lighter pinkish. It was close enough for government work though so I left it. I still have the bottle maybe a touch of blue would help it. Most importantly it's nail polish and is ok for frame touch up but probably not suitable for complete cage coverage.
As for the crankset (BTW I had the same problem) I've seen where forum members have use computer generated clear stickers that passed.
It should be stated my touch up techniques are not on the level of RT, Docs, or JD's. But more like jetboys.😁
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Old 02-25-20, 09:47 AM
  #488  
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Originally Posted by TXsailor View Post
a

Has anyone came up with a color code for the MV colors? I will need to do some touch up on mine & my sister in law's bikes and sure would like to paint a bottle cage the magenta color to go with the yellow on on the bike.
I'm also trying to figure out what I am going to do with the letters on the 105 crank set. Its worn partly off. I could polish it and do away with the letters or maybe reproduce the mat finish and somehow re stencil the letters back on.
'70 Dodge Panther Pink (code M3) has to be pretty close to the magenta.
Edit: Looks like it was called Moulin Rouge by Plymouth.
It was once available in Testors (model car) spray cans (part no. 28124) or Testors touch up bottles (part no. 2757).
This site also shows some possible sources for similar colors.
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Old 02-25-20, 01:18 PM
  #489  
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Originally Posted by Hudson308 View Post
'70 Dodge Panther Pink (code M3) has to be pretty close to the magenta.
Edit: Looks like it was called Moulin Rouge by Plymouth.
It was once available in Testors (model car) spray cans (part no. 28124) or Testors touch up bottles (part no. 2757).
This site also shows some possible sources for similar colors.
Perfect timing my wife is going to Hobby Lobby this afternoon for one of her projects. We live 50 miles from the nearest store of that kind so we have to have a reason to go.
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Old 03-25-20, 03:51 PM
  #490  
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89 Ironman Expert pedals

Everything I've read states this model comes with Sampson pedals but mine and several others I've seen photos of
have Shimano 600 pedals.The rest of my bike is completely stock so I'm wondering if you think these pedals were added
after the fact or did Centurion use some left over pedals?
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Old 03-25-20, 05:06 PM
  #491  
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Originally Posted by robertj298 View Post
Everything I've read states this model comes with Sampson pedals but mine and several others I've seen photos of
have Shimano 600 pedals.The rest of my bike is completely stock so I'm wondering if you think these pedals were added
after the fact or did Centurion use some left over pedals?
Can you post a pic please?
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Old 03-25-20, 05:49 PM
  #492  
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Originally Posted by texaspandj View Post
Can you post a pic please?

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Old 03-25-20, 05:58 PM
  #493  
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Those pedals were Never issued on the '89 Expert.
Can you post a pic of your Ironman bike please?
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Old 03-25-20, 06:01 PM
  #494  
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Originally Posted by texaspandj View Post
Those pedals were Never issued on the '89 Expert.
Can you post a pic of your Ironman bike please?
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Old 03-27-20, 09:46 AM
  #495  
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Originally Posted by texaspandj View Post
Those pedals were Never issued on the '89 Expert.
Can you post a pic of your Ironman bike please?
So you don't think they could have used leftover pedals from the 1988 Master Ironman which used these pedals?
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Old 05-11-20, 03:24 PM
  #496  
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Originally Posted by aprieto28 View Post
New saddle and leather bar wrap.
Looks great. What is the crankset?
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Old 05-25-20, 07:18 AM
  #497  
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172.5 cranks

I recently saved the scan sheet to my computer for my nearly stock 85 IM that I bought a few years ago. Specs say 170/175 cranks. Mine say 6207 in 172.5 with the Centurion measured frame size of 58cm. I need to go through bearings before I ride it much, but it has been on the back burner as I have been rehabbing a sport tourer and a tourer.

Interesting about the frame size too. Researching and measuring puts that 58 more into the actual 56cm ctc that is best for me. I need to retire to have more project time.
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Old 06-06-20, 08:13 AM
  #498  
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I posted this also in Ironman paint jobs thread; if that's a no-no I'm sorry and I'll drop one.


Sizing question help on the Ironman cousin: 1992 Diamond Back Master TG

I've found one I can actually afford but seller's measurements are confusing me as to the frame size. I haven't been able to find the exact geometry on these through research, although most reference 88-89 Lemans as possible matches (the "Centurion Lemans" was still sold in Australia in 90-92 and from interwebs pics seems to be tig-welded without lugs so that's a kind of confirmation of sorts).

What 'size' do you think this thing is with the following numbers?

Center to top of tube: 61cm
Center to center: 59 cm
Center to top of post/scallop: 63 cm

I think this has oversize tubing which may be throwing off my comparison to Ironman / Lemans frames. I currently have a very beat 58cm '86 Elite RS which I just barely fit on as I work on flexibility and stretching out (and I would sell on to keep the DB as it's in better running shape and I don't have time/work space right now for a project). Is this going to be about the same or a whole size bigger?

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Old 06-06-20, 09:46 PM
  #499  
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Originally Posted by KiwiMtnClmbr View Post
I posted this also in Ironman paint jobs thread; if that's a no-no I'm sorry and I'll drop one.


Sizing question help on the Ironman cousin: 1992 Diamond Back Master TG

I've found one I can actually afford but seller's measurements are confusing me as to the frame size. I haven't been able to find the exact geometry on these through research, although most reference 88-89 Lemans as possible matches (the "Centurion Lemans" was still sold in Australia in 90-92 and from interwebs pics seems to be tig-welded without lugs so that's a kind of confirmation of sorts).

What 'size' do you think this thing is with the following numbers?

Center to top of tube: 61cm
Center to center: 59 cm
Center to top of post/scallop: 63 cm

I think this has oversize tubing which may be throwing off my comparison to Ironman / Lemans frames. I currently have a very beat 58cm '86 Elite RS which I just barely fit on as I work on flexibility and stretching out (and I would sell on to keep the DB as it's in better running shape and I don't have time/work space right now for a project). Is this going to be about the same or a whole size bigger?

On a diamond frame with horizontal top tube the easiest way to guesstimate frame size is the headtube space between top tube and downtube. That frame looks like it's for someone around 6'2"-6'4" with proportionately long legs.

That stem is really long too, even for a time trial/tri-bike. Even if I could get comfortable on the aero bars the bike is too tall to be aerodynamic. And downtube shifters are tricky with aero bars. You'd need to get out of the aero bars for every shift, interrupting the flow. Some folks might try shifting with one hand while still in the aero bar position, but the balance will be so twitchy it's extremely risky. That's why most TT/tri-bikes later hand shifters on the ends of the aero bars, and now most are electronic pushbuttons.

It's not clear from your description of your existing 58cm bike whether it's too large, too small, or you just need to work on overall conditioning to get comfortable with a road bike. I know it took me almost three years to get comfortable on a road bike again, but I was coming from a long layoff accompanied by serious injuries from a car wreck (broken back and neck). For while only an upright comfort hybrid was tolerable.

If your 58cm bike is a little too large, this Diamondback Master TG is way too big. I'm 5'11" with 33" inseam and have bikes ranging from 56-58cm. To make the 58cm bike comfortable (it's an old school rigid mountain bike) I switched from flat to albatross swept bars to shorten the reach.

My drop bar road bike are around 56-57cm and comfortable -- assuming I do my part with physical therapy and strengthening a few times a week, and stretches every day. But even then I put a shorter stem on one and a compact drop bar on the other.
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Old 06-07-20, 06:47 AM
  #500  
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Originally Posted by canklecat View Post
On a diamond frame with horizontal top tube the easiest way to guesstimate frame size is the headtube space between top tube and downtube. That frame looks like it's for someone around 6'2"-6'4" with proportionately long legs.

That stem is really long too, even for a time trial/tri-bike. Even if I could get comfortable on the aero bars the bike is too tall to be aerodynamic. And downtube shifters are tricky with aero bars. You'd need to get out of the aero bars for every shift, interrupting the flow. Some folks might try shifting with one hand while still in the aero bar position, but the balance will be so twitchy it's extremely risky. That's why most TT/tri-bikes later hand shifters on the ends of the aero bars, and now most are electronic pushbuttons.

It's not clear from your description of your existing 58cm bike whether it's too large, too small, or you just need to work on overall conditioning to get comfortable with a road bike. I know it took me almost three years to get comfortable on a road bike again, but I was coming from a long layoff accompanied by serious injuries from a car wreck (broken back and neck). For while only an upright comfort hybrid was tolerable.

If your 58cm bike is a little too large, this Diamondback Master TG is way too big. I'm 5'11" with 33" inseam and have bikes ranging from 56-58cm. To make the 58cm bike comfortable (it's an old school rigid mountain bike) I switched from flat to albatross swept bars to shorten the reach.

My drop bar road bike are around 56-57cm and comfortable -- assuming I do my part with physical therapy and strengthening a few times a week, and stretches every day. But even then I put a shorter stem on one and a compact drop bar on the other.
Thanks for weighing in! I'm in a similar condition, with some computer slump from 4 years of my first desk job ever and a bad back injury just before it. The 58cm Ironman frame is the right top tube length for my physiology (I've had both a Retul and an independent fitting) but it's a stretch right now since I've been otherwise occupied / lazy for the past 6 months.

I could manage a taller standover if it meant a good bike that fit well but I agree that the DB is setup poorly which is what was really contributing to my brain's difficulty in estimating size. That combined with the camera angle even made pic measuring come out all wrong. The seller hasn't ridden it much at all because it's too big for him as well, even though I tried to suggest that the stem and seat should be lowered.

I guess this is another pass. It's on CL in SE Pennsylvania if it will fit anyone else.
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