If you have the option would you go 1/8 or 3/32?
05-01-20, 08:54 AM
#1
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If you have the option would you go 1/8 or 3/32?
Received a White Industries 17t ENO freewheel that is 'designed for 3/32' but works with 1/8 chain. I don't have the chainring or chain yet. If you guys had the option to go with 3/32 or 1/8 drive train components which would you go and why?
05-01-20, 09:49 AM
#2
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1/8". I have both on two different trikes, single speed and multi speed. The 1/8" lasts twice as long before stretching requiring replacement. 3/8" is thinner for engaging gears on a cassette and/or chain ring. The thinner = faster wear.
05-01-20, 09:51 AM
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Id go 1/8 chain. Then you can get 1/8 chainring or a skinny one.
05-01-20, 12:03 PM
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One reason not to go with 1/8" chain is if your chain line isn't dialed in pretty close. 3/32" chain has more lateral flex and is more forgiving. I'm not suggesting you not try to get a proper chain line, but if you've done the best you know how and it is still off, then a little forgiveness is good.
05-02-20, 11:16 AM
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If I had 3/32 I would match up to that. Now if there were particular drivetrain bits and bobs I wanted that only came in 1/8 then I guess that would be the jam. However I can find some decent quality 3/32 stuff so why not. I like really quiet set ups for single speed or fixed gear (though I like a freewheel with loads of engagement like my WI trials version)
05-02-20, 02:06 PM
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If I already had the 3/32 WI freewheel, then 3/32. Quieter and lighter. If I was starting from scratch with nothing, 3/32.
I question the claim that 3/32 stretches faster, and especially that "1/8 lasts twice as long." Not in my experience they don't.
I question the claim that 3/32 stretches faster, and especially that "1/8 lasts twice as long." Not in my experience they don't.
05-02-20, 05:18 PM
#7
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Chain width has nothing to do with its strength or wear rate or how much noise it makes. You can buy single speed-specific chains in both widths. I would choose the chainring first, then use whatever chain is necessary to match it.
If perfect chain tension and smoothness is important to you, there are a few brands of very high quality track chainrings that come in the traditional 1/8” width. They are expensive. Otherwise 3/32 chainrings are more commonly available with many more BCD and tooth-count options.
If perfect chain tension and smoothness is important to you, there are a few brands of very high quality track chainrings that come in the traditional 1/8” width. They are expensive. Otherwise 3/32 chainrings are more commonly available with many more BCD and tooth-count options.
05-02-20, 05:58 PM
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I ride only fix gear, never single speed. I rode on the road and in hills. I only use 1/8". I started on 3/32" and rode 2 decades on it but I will never go back. Reason? It is harder tho throw an 1/8" chain off an 1/6" cog, especially a cog that has been cut to very square teeth. (Eur-Asian cogs are my 1st choice.) I also run chains designed to be sturdy and not throw off. (Izumi. Not quiet or especially smooth but they stay on.)
The 1/8" drivetrains are more forgiving of too much slack, especially on poor roads and/or high RPMs. I really do not like throwing chains, especially at speed. I have been known to descend in gears like 42-17 at speeds approaching 50 (I've gained a little sanity and lost a lot of spin so I do not, cannot any more. But crashing hurts far more now so I want that same conservative drive train.
Chain slack is often a juggling act if the crankset is not of track quality. I refuse to ride with a chain that goes tight, but on many road cranksets, that means the slackest portion of the chain cycle may be looser than is comfortable for piece of mind, There I really like having that heavy, solid, stiff track quality 1/8" chain running on square cut quality cogs. (The black Izumis cost $20 and go a long ways, I call that a deal. I willingly pay twice that for the Eur-Asian cogs. Funny - I believe made in USA despite the name.)
For a single speed, this matters far less. But the OP might want to consider 1/8" to have the more rugged system should he ever decide to dabble in fix gear.
Ben
The 1/8" drivetrains are more forgiving of too much slack, especially on poor roads and/or high RPMs. I really do not like throwing chains, especially at speed. I have been known to descend in gears like 42-17 at speeds approaching 50 (I've gained a little sanity and lost a lot of spin so I do not, cannot any more. But crashing hurts far more now so I want that same conservative drive train.
Chain slack is often a juggling act if the crankset is not of track quality. I refuse to ride with a chain that goes tight, but on many road cranksets, that means the slackest portion of the chain cycle may be looser than is comfortable for piece of mind, There I really like having that heavy, solid, stiff track quality 1/8" chain running on square cut quality cogs. (The black Izumis cost $20 and go a long ways, I call that a deal. I willingly pay twice that for the Eur-Asian cogs. Funny - I believe made in USA despite the name.)
For a single speed, this matters far less. But the OP might want to consider 1/8" to have the more rugged system should he ever decide to dabble in fix gear.
Ben
05-03-20, 12:26 PM
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If you use 1/8" chain, you can mix and match 1/8" and 3/32" chainrings and sprockets. If you use 3/32" chain, you can only use 3/32" chainrings and sprockets.
