simpleton.

The Serial number is 19T62 there is no tet or tt on the bb shell.. So I'm not sure who built the frame.
I was under the impression that The Montare was tig welded.. But I'm just getting into this vintage thing... I think I'm going to have a problem

simpleton.

WOW! thanks guys! It definitely needs some work though.. The hubs need to be over hauled, all of the cables and housing need to be replaced and the paint is in pretty rough shape. I'm thinking about swapping the bars out for a bullmoose. I cant wait to take this thing on some trails

neo_pop_71

I know the '85 Excalibur was definitely tig welded but I thought that year's Montare was fillet brazed. I certainly could be wrong but doesn't a "T" on the bottom bracket shell indicate that is was a Tom Ritchey frame, a "TT" was a Tom Teesdale, and a "T" in the serial indicated a Toyo Japan made frame? I thought only the fillet brazed Competition model was made by Ritchey and later Teesdale.

My tig welded '85 fork is stamped "85" as well as MIJ and TANGE

blilrat

According to Teesdale's site, he built competitions and mt tams. The general rule as I know it is either a TT or TET on the bottom bracket means a Teesdale bike. A T in the serial is a Tam and a C is the Competition.

Slammin

Mystery solved its defintely an 88 montare. That bike looks mostly original it has a bulge stem with rollers those look like rhino bars. Mombat said bulge was on 88. The 85 came with a one piece bullmoose. Below is a link. They were four models with brazing back in 88. This guy whose pic I borrowed says his is an 84 tam but I think it's an 85.

cosmonhat

I have some Fat Franks mounted on Mavic xm317 rims (23mm width??) and they work just fine on city streets and trails. I don't know how they would hold up under really aggressive riding and/or on really rough terrain though.

jmeb

My smoke chrome High Sierra got polished up a bit. I believe its a 1989 given the canti/ubrake combo and the uncommon graphics. The finish is very rough after years of sitting outside. Nonetheless, still eye catching in the sun--especially as a complete functional bike for $50. Build photos coming soon after I gather up some grips and brake levers.

frantik

^ so sweet do you have a scale? how much does the frame+fork weigh?

papik

Very nice !

jmeb

Sadly I don't have a scale for the reason that I'd start weighing everything if I did. About the same as my 62cm Trek 620 in Reynolds 531. The frame is some kind of butted cro-mo ("Tri-caliber Tri-Oval" -- so maybe tri-butted.) Fork is cro-mo -- straight gauge I believe.

papik

My 1998 SPECIALIZED "hardrock".....upon the Med....

balindamood

In reference to the Fisher discussion, ALL Montares were TIG welded in Japan. Fisher had about 4 models between about 1984 and 1988, two different frame geometries, 2 TIG'ed in Japan, and 2 fillet braised in the US. That is one of the two fillet models, but I cannot remember the names.

enjoybikes

I left my second job and in the email discussion with the boss, she said, "I have an old stumpjumper that I want to recycle. Let me know if you're interested." Turned out to be this which was still way ok with me. A component soak in simple green and a toothbrush scrub and it's good as new. Just handed it off to a friend who will use it for her daughter's tagalong.

frantik

thought u guys might enjoy these teaser shots of the mid-90s tandem i picked up recently

Italuminium

yes, yes I do Frantik! spatterpainting it yourself?

frantik

yep i need to do the clearcoat still but i'm pretty happy with it. used Krylon Webbing spray




EDIT.. just a note if anyone ever uses this.. this paint is soluble in rubbing alcohol.. once you spray it, DO NOT wipe it down even when dry.. ask me how i found out.. luckily i was able to clean up the smudged parts and hit it with a little more webbing

emarks

I couldn't live without the kickstand, truly one of my favorite accessories. I especially like the rear triangle mounted kickstands because they support the bike where there is the most weight and the bike can be rolled backwards without the pedals interfering.

jmeb

I couldn't resist building it up the High Sierra asap with mostly on-hand parts. Nor could it wait to get out on the trail. All that cleanup was quickly rendered moot. It felt quite quick over 23 miles of single track this morning.




Original Dia Compe's. Mildly polished with Simichrome.


Original U-Brake. Never had one before, but found it relatively easy to setup and can lock up the rear wheel quick. Also polished up nicely.


More mud hiding the imperfections in the finish.


Cleaned up at home. All original. Unfortunately from what little I've been able to find around the web it sounds like this is a very weird hub setup to service. The 7-speed XCD hub was a sort of freewheel/freehub mashup. So after this gets worn to the ground the wheel will probably go away unless I find some cheap source of replacement parts. The Accushift works like a charm though.


Only non original stuff on the bike is cockpit and pedals. Stem is perhaps original. As are the Suntour XCD shifters -- friction up front, indexed/friction in back. Fyxation Alterra cafe bar I had lying around. Tektro adjustable pull levers, and Ergon grips which I've been meaning to try for a long while. Not wild about the color of the Velo Orange Red housing, feels a bit dull. Will probably go straight black when it is time to replace.

frantik

^ *drools*

simpleton.

I'm really liking the look of these High Sierra's. I found one semi local for $30 on CL but, the seller didn't leave any contact info..derp.

gingi310

I took the advice offered in this thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ube?highlight= and bought a disc-specific bike to haul my kids around SF, which meant the Grizzly got taken apart and put in boxes. By this time, bike was pretty worked. It had been used and abused, left outside and put away wet. The bottom bracket had essentially disintegrated. That said, I loved the bike as it was my first "serious" rig, the lack of maintenance was my own fault, the lugged steel frame was still dent free and it deserved another chance.

After I stripped the parts, I had to decide what to do with the frame. The original celeste paint was destroyed and unsalvageable. The frame was cool, but certainly not worth doing a full restore. When I was stripping the paint, I was impressed by how good the raw steel looked with the nice lugs and brass-colored brazing material outlining the lugs. The only think I didn't love was the unicrown fork; I would have loved to have one of those fork crowns from the early 80s ATBs. In the end, I decided to get the frame powder coated clear to preserve the raw steel look. <gasp> from the celeste traditionalists! <sorry>

I neglected to take "before" photos, but this is essentially what it looked like:


Here is what looks like now:




Full gallery here: https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/29830063_439Pgh (sorry, I didn't realize those photos were quite that terrible until I got this far in the post...)

I am building it up mostly with Suntour XC Expert components from this bike: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...oup?highlight= (other than the Shimano deore u-brake which has to stay and the bars from the old build. It am going to put on a porteur-type front back and make it my grocery getter (which needs the super low gearing of the Suntour XC setup).

I'll update this thread when I get it built.

Cheers,

Jon

SF, CA

simpleton.

Some might advise against clear over raw steel but, it sure looks great!

ColonelJLloyd 

That's pretty badass, dude.

Glennfordx4

Really nice Schwinn, if you take a look around Loose Screws you can pick up a new hub and rear cog sets pretty cheap until the end of the month ( going out of business, 20% off everything after it's in your cart). I picked up the rear hub for $12 or so plus a set of 7spd cogs just to have on hand as I have a bunch of 7spd Accushift stuff myself.
https://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi...&id=4947324876
https://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi...&id=4947324876

Glenn

frantik

update pic.. unfortunately the rustoleum "fluorescent pink" doesn't look very pink when you lay it on thick and clear coat it, but otherwise i'm pretty happy with the paint job. depending on how i feel i may redo the fork someday

rustoleum products for everything except the krylon webbing. no problems with compatibility