True Temper S3 vs Columbus (SL?)
#1
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True Temper S3 vs Columbus (SL?)
I am looking for the lightest custom steel frame road bike. I've only read about True Temper S3 on a couple websites that talk about sub 2.5 pound TT S3 frames. I've contacted a few custom builders and several have come back with Columbus SL. How to compare these? I am 115 pounds, do rocky trail sections to commute to my mostly hilly group road rides. Would appreciate any polite advice or suggestions.
TIA.
TIA.
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There is no way a Columbus SL frame is going to weigh 2.5 pounds. I'd expect 3.5 at best and more close to 4 pounds.
My Columbus SL frame is 1750g (3.8-3.9 pounds)
My Columbus SL frame is 1750g (3.8-3.9 pounds)
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even at your weight, you might be better off with a little bit stouter frame than the S3 given your stated riding conditions. An S3 bike would be fine for you on the road, obviously, but rocky trails would probably be pushing it a little. It's too bad that SL doesn't come in thinner sections.
#4
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The "new" SL (Niobium alloy instead of Cyclex like the 1980s SL) has 0.8mm/0.5mm/0.8mm walls, while the original 80s Cyclex SL had 0.9mm/0.6mm/0.9mm.
Columbus Spirit, also Niobium alloy, has even thinner walls (0.5mm/0.38mm/0.5mm), but with the OP's intended use on rocky trails even at his weight, Spirit might be pushing it.
Columbus Spirit, also Niobium alloy, has even thinner walls (0.5mm/0.38mm/0.5mm), but with the OP's intended use on rocky trails even at his weight, Spirit might be pushing it.
Last edited by Scooper; 03-30-16 at 09:46 PM.
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Scooper, how is the new SL "triple butted?" I guess I've never really known what that means.
It looks really good, I might want to have my broken Mondonico re-tubed after all, in Columbus 8-5-8!
It looks really good, I might want to have my broken Mondonico re-tubed after all, in Columbus 8-5-8!
#6
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In this case, it's Italian for "double butted."
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Oops! Sorry. The picture in your avatar looks to me like a guy.
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BITD I built a frame using Columbus KL. Traditional diameters but .7/.4 walls IIRC. Frame ended up at just over 3lbs. I was around 125/130lbs and about 5' 6" at that time and the frame was WAY flexi. felt like it had wings going up and like it had a loose hinge going down the hills of the Finger lakes. (reminds me of what Andy Hampsten once said about the too light climbing bikes in the then pros. "only thing scarier then descending on one is not having one while climbing").
I would think a .8/.5 walled tube set would build up to a 3.5/3.75 frame (in a small size). A .9/.6 walled tube set gets you a 4/4.25lb frame in a small size. Andy
I would think a .8/.5 walled tube set would build up to a 3.5/3.75 frame (in a small size). A .9/.6 walled tube set gets you a 4/4.25lb frame in a small size. Andy
#10
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BITD I built a frame using Columbus KL. Traditional diameters but .7/.4 walls IIRC. Frame ended up at just over 3lbs. I was around 125/130lbs and about 5' 6" at that time and the frame was WAY flexi. felt like it had wings going up and like it had a loose hinge going down the hills of the Finger lakes. (reminds me of what Andy Hampsten once said about the too light climbing bikes in the then pros. "only thing scarier then descending on one is not having one while climbing").
I would think a .8/.5 walled tube set would build up to a 3.5/3.75 frame (in a small size). A .9/.6 walled tube set gets you a 4/4.25lb frame in a small size. Andy
I would think a .8/.5 walled tube set would build up to a 3.5/3.75 frame (in a small size). A .9/.6 walled tube set gets you a 4/4.25lb frame in a small size. Andy
I'm 6' tall and weigh 185. My 61cm Waterford frame (Reynolds 953) weighs 3.6 pounds and has .5/.3/.5 top tube and .6/.4/.6 down tube (tubing is OS), and the stiffness is indistinguishable from my 61cm standard diameter 531 Paramount with a frame weight of a little over 5 pounds. Both bikes have virtually the same geometry.
The OS diameter tubing provides essentially the same stiffness at a significant savings in weight.
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Of course the torsional stiffness of a tube is far greater (being geometrical) with increasing diameters. But we know that. And with increased strength (not to be confused with stiffness) a thinner walled tube suffers less "beer canning". Andy, (who is enjoying a Great lakes Edmund Fitzgerald porter right now.)
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#16
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Ishiwata used the term "triple-butted" to describe tubing that had different wall thicknesses at the butted ends (T1 and T3 in the illustration below).
Columbus seems to use it to describe any tubing that has three wall thicknesses, e.g. end butt/center section/end butt, even if the end butts have the same wall thickness. IOW, Columbus describes tubes most of us call "double-butted" as "triple-butted".
Miyata claimed its tubing was triple-butted in the same way Ishiwata did.
Last edited by Scooper; 04-07-16 at 03:11 PM.
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BITD I built a frame using Columbus KL. Traditional diameters but .7/.4 walls IIRC. Frame ended up at just over 3lbs. I was around 125/130lbs and about 5' 6" at that time and the frame was WAY flexi. felt like it had wings going up and like it had a loose hinge going down the hills of the Finger lakes. (reminds me of what Andy Hampsten once said about the too light climbing bikes in the then pros. "only thing scarier then descending on one is not having one while climbing").
I would think a .8/.5 walled tube set would build up to a 3.5/3.75 frame (in a small size). A .9/.6 walled tube set gets you a 4/4.25lb frame in a small size. Andy
I would think a .8/.5 walled tube set would build up to a 3.5/3.75 frame (in a small size). A .9/.6 walled tube set gets you a 4/4.25lb frame in a small size. Andy
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R&E Cycles makes some of their Rodriguez frames with S3 and they have one built up in the shop and it's very light. Not my thing but, amazing nonetheless. I would call them and ask about their experience and recommendations.
#19
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I just tried S3 for the first time. The frame came out at just over 1400 grams without paint and the built up bike without pedals is 14.8 lbs. That's with a SRAM Red group and a couple of weight weenie choices on the other stuff. It was also my first time trying Fillet Pro. Overall, the bike rides well, as a steel bike often does. There are no issues with flex at all. I'm sure the 38mm downtube has something to do with that. I can't speak to durability since I only have a couple of hundred miles on it.
edit: I forgot to say, the frame size is 56cm.
edit: I forgot to say, the frame size is 56cm.
Last edited by busdriver1959; 04-15-16 at 12:31 PM.
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just a thought: look at total build weight not just frame. Like are are you willing to go tubular to save weight ? is it worth it to have a little stronger frame and make up for the difference in the rest of the build. Very personal vision thing i know
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#21
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Can you post pics of your bike? Very interested.
I just tried S3 for the first time. The frame came out at just over 1400 grams without paint and the built up bike without pedals is 14.8 lbs. That's with a SRAM Red group and a couple of weight weenie choices on the other stuff. It was also my first time trying Fillet Pro. Overall, the bike rides well, as a steel bike often does. There are no issues with flex at all. I'm sure the 38mm downtube has something to do with that. I can't speak to durability since I only have a couple of hundred miles on it.
edit: I forgot to say, the frame size is 56cm.
edit: I forgot to say, the frame size is 56cm.
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S3 is nifty and all but with a small frame size you gotta select your tubes carefully or after the tube it cut to size there may not be any butt left on one side.
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#24
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The Ipad isn't cooperating. I'll upload more when I get home in a week.
The wheels are American Classic hubs laced to Velocity clincher rims. Seatpost is American Classic also. Saddle, bars and integrated stem are Chinese carbon. I have a death wish. The 90 degree stem isn't my first choice. I know the brake lever position violates the rule that the lever tips are even with the drops. Since I never try to ride holding onto the tips, I position the hoods where I like them instead.
The wheels are American Classic hubs laced to Velocity clincher rims. Seatpost is American Classic also. Saddle, bars and integrated stem are Chinese carbon. I have a death wish. The 90 degree stem isn't my first choice. I know the brake lever position violates the rule that the lever tips are even with the drops. Since I never try to ride holding onto the tips, I position the hoods where I like them instead.
Last edited by busdriver1959; 04-16-16 at 10:28 AM.
#25
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Nice looking bike. Like the corks. Riding comfortably is way more important than following "the rules".
The Ipad isn't cooperating. I'll upload more when I get home in a week.
The wheels are American Classic hubs laced to Velocity clincher rims. Seatpost is American Classic also. Saddle, bars and integrated stem are Chinese carbon. I have a death wish. The 90 degree stem isn't my first choice. I know the brake lever position violates the rule that the lever tips are even with the drops. Since I never try to ride holding onto the tips, I position the hoods where I like them instead.
The wheels are American Classic hubs laced to Velocity clincher rims. Seatpost is American Classic also. Saddle, bars and integrated stem are Chinese carbon. I have a death wish. The 90 degree stem isn't my first choice. I know the brake lever position violates the rule that the lever tips are even with the drops. Since I never try to ride holding onto the tips, I position the hoods where I like them instead.