Are rusty spokes a problem?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Are rusty spokes a problem?
Restoring bike with rust spikes. Steel wool can take the rust off and get down to the steel. Is this okay or should I think about new wheel or replacing spikes?
#2
Sr Member on Sr bikes
I'd say that if the rust is along the length of the spoke that removing it, and keeping it off, shouldn't weaken it too much. However, if there's rust at the elbow/head of the spoke...then you should definately replace it. That's where about 99% of all spoke failures happen. Having corrosion there is just going to hasten the failure. If there's rust at the threads, that needs replaced too. But just using steel wool to get rust off the length of the spoke should be OK.
However, If you're "restoring" the bike...I take that to mean you want to improve the bike's aesthetics (unless you're restoring just for functionality). If that's the case, then I'd say go ahead and replace the spokes with some that won't rust. That might mean completely re-lacing the wheel. Might be more work than you're willing to take on. Mabye new wheels are in order.
Dan
However, If you're "restoring" the bike...I take that to mean you want to improve the bike's aesthetics (unless you're restoring just for functionality). If that's the case, then I'd say go ahead and replace the spokes with some that won't rust. That might mean completely re-lacing the wheel. Might be more work than you're willing to take on. Mabye new wheels are in order.
Dan
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#3
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Depends. Is it a mountain bike you plan on thrashing? Is it a cruiser for occasional cruises around the neighborhood? Road bike for smooth pavement?
300 lb rider or 125 lb? Steel rims or Al?
Restoring or rehabbing?
300 lb rider or 125 lb? Steel rims or Al?
Restoring or rehabbing?
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#4
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Spokes are either stainless steel or galvanized. Galvanized spokes are the sign of a manufacturer trying to meet a price point. Your bike has cheap wheels.
If it was my bike, I'd try to love it for what it is. If you're trying to flip it or if the rust bothers you, you can try the steel wool thing to knock back the rust but it's probably not going to work long term. Eventually the spokes are going to start breaking. When that happens, it's going to be time for a whole new replacement wheel.
If it was my bike, I'd try to love it for what it is. If you're trying to flip it or if the rust bothers you, you can try the steel wool thing to knock back the rust but it's probably not going to work long term. Eventually the spokes are going to start breaking. When that happens, it's going to be time for a whole new replacement wheel.
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#5
Banned
Older bikes did not have SS Spokes ... if Zn coated dont remove it that is the rust resistance..
[used to work in a shipyard we put sacrificial Zinc ingots on to resist the seawater rusting the steel hull]
[used to work in a shipyard we put sacrificial Zinc ingots on to resist the seawater rusting the steel hull]
#6
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I can only relate what I did. 1978 Schwinn Superior. Corroded spokes, Zn plated as fietsbob pointed out. I replaced them with SS spokes of similar geometry. I was pleased because the visual corrosion was gone, I got a change to polish the hubs and rims w/o the spokes installed and I got a change to practice wheelbuilding.
YMMV. Your goals may be different.
Regarding weakening the spoke, yeah, corrosion does that. But there's some safety margin left on the spoke if the corrosion isn't too bad. I think that my wheels would have been fine with steel wool to take off the corrosion, but I wanted a cleaner look. Also, at 240lb, I figured my safety margin was lower than for the 150 person the bike was probably designed for...
YMMV. Your goals may be different.
Regarding weakening the spoke, yeah, corrosion does that. But there's some safety margin left on the spoke if the corrosion isn't too bad. I think that my wheels would have been fine with steel wool to take off the corrosion, but I wanted a cleaner look. Also, at 240lb, I figured my safety margin was lower than for the 150 person the bike was probably designed for...
Last edited by WizardOfBoz; 07-19-20 at 11:18 AM.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I'd say that if the rust is along the length of the spoke that removing it, and keeping it off, shouldn't weaken it too much. However, if there's rust at the elbow/head of the spoke...then you should definately replace it. That's where about 99% of all spoke failures happen. Having corrosion there is just going to hasten the failure. If there's rust at the threads, that needs replaced too. But just using steel wool to get rust off the length of the spoke should be OK.
However, If you're "restoring" the bike...I take that to mean you want to improve the bike's aesthetics (unless you're restoring just for functionality). If that's the case, then I'd say go ahead and replace the spokes with some that won't rust. That might mean completely re-lacing the wheel. Might be more work than you're willing to take on. Mabye new wheels are in order.
Dan
However, If you're "restoring" the bike...I take that to mean you want to improve the bike's aesthetics (unless you're restoring just for functionality). If that's the case, then I'd say go ahead and replace the spokes with some that won't rust. That might mean completely re-lacing the wheel. Might be more work than you're willing to take on. Mabye new wheels are in order.
Dan
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I can only relate what I did. 1978 Schwinn Superior. Corroded spokes, Zn plated as fietsbob pointed out. I replaced them with SS spokes of similar geometry. I was pleased because the visual corrosion was gone, I got a change to polish the hubs and rims w/o the spokes installed and I got a change to practice wheelbuilding.
YMMV. Your goals may be different.
Regarding weakening the spoke, yeah, corrosion does that. But there's some safety margin left on the spoke if the corrosion isn't too bad. I think that my wheels would have been fine with steel wool to take off the corrosion, but I wanted a cleaner look. Also, at 240lb, I figured my safety margin was lower than for the 150 person the bike was probably designed for...
YMMV. Your goals may be different.
Regarding weakening the spoke, yeah, corrosion does that. But there's some safety margin left on the spoke if the corrosion isn't too bad. I think that my wheels would have been fine with steel wool to take off the corrosion, but I wanted a cleaner look. Also, at 240lb, I figured my safety margin was lower than for the 150 person the bike was probably designed for...
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#11
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Given your goal, I think your plan is spot on. Enjoy the rides!
#12
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It would depend on how much material has been removed due to corrosion. If the surface of the spoke is visibly pitted or no longer looks round, I'd say that the spoke is done. If it still looks round when you've removed the rust, you should be okay. If you see anything that looks like a crack, replace it.
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
i would apply rust or lube or something like that of it would help preserve the spokes. I don’t want to have to get new wheels for this old bike and a spoke project is not something that I would prioritize (unless I need to!) when I need to fix gears and brakes still. The old bike isn’t fooling anyone into thinking it’s younger!