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Clunker 100 Challenge COVID edition #6

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Old 08-26-20, 06:23 PM
  #126  
droppedandlost 
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great suggestions, I knew you guys wouldn't let me down
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Old 08-26-20, 06:40 PM
  #127  
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Catch and skin some varmints in your yard. Chipmunk hide wrap!
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Old 08-26-20, 07:04 PM
  #128  
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So on the left is the 11-19t corncob the Univega came with and I just rode 100km with. On the right is the new 12-32t that is replacing it. No more fearing hills

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Old 08-26-20, 07:07 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by nlerner
Catch and skin some varmints in your yard. Chipmunk hide wrap!
how about the moles that destroy my lawn?
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Old 08-26-20, 07:12 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by droppedandlost
how about the moles that destroy my lawn?

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Old 08-27-20, 01:31 AM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by RandolphCarter
I realize I had said earlier in the thread I didn't have time to work on any project bikes this year, BUT.... what paint stripping technique did you use, that you were happy with?
I used primarily three techniques: (1) sanding by hand with a sanding belt pulled back and forth across the tubes, (2) a wire brush attachment on a power drill, and (3) CitriStrip.

i had originally wanted to do it without a chemical stripper. I experimented with various ways to use sand paper, and the sanding belt was the only thing that was in any way practical. This technique was pretty effective, but only for the uninterrupted smooth sections of the tubes. Also, it throws up a lot of dust and makes a serious mess. You definitely need some sort of particle filtering mask, and it will quickly dispel any illusions you have about non-chemical stripping being the safe approach.

The wire brush had only very localized effects on the bare paint. You’d never get the whole frame stripped this way. On the other hand, it’s pretty much the only way I found to get at the nooks and crannies, like the edges of the lugs. The wire brush was also much more effective on paint that had gotten the CitriStrip treatment.

The CitriStrip really got things done. In some places, the paint blistered and wiped off like dust. In other places, it only softened it. In all places, it was effective. If I had started with this, the job would have taken 90% less time. I don’t recall the safety/handling instructions for the CitriStrip, but I remember it seeming like one of the least hazardous products available. I used thick rubber kitchen gloves and a mask when working with it and didn’t have any problems.
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Old 08-27-20, 05:03 PM
  #132  
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Ok, here is my entry. It is a 1988 (I think) Trek 800 that was in need of some serious TLC. Wheels, bottom bracket and headset were sloppy and gritty. I forgot to snap a pic until I was halfway through the rebuild, too excited to get started I suppose. Swapped out the dry rotting Chang Shin tires for some used Conti Town And Country 2.0. Also swapped the bars for a set of take offs from a Diamond Back Ascent. Once I finished the greasing I mounted the trailer hitch and did a 2 mile shakedown ride with my little gal.
Trek 800: $40
used Conti Town and Country tires: $30
used handlebars $15
grease: $5
total: $90

Once I hit the mileage, plan to add front and rear racks and fenders if I like the bike well enough. Might also toss the Oval Tech chainrings too.

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Old 08-27-20, 05:19 PM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by nlerner
^ I vote for old inner tubes covered in Saran Wrap.
Ok fancy boy
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Old 08-27-20, 05:27 PM
  #134  
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Got the Schwinn Mesa GSX 1998 version 1 after some research turns out they really downgraded this model for the 98 2nd version and later models so, nice bin find done today with a new DR hanger looks great. Rides good the short wheelbase and stiff frame combined with lesser suspension fork makes it dive a bit on hard breaking other wise very smooth rider will take a bit to get used to the very different but basically good handling. May consider just dolling locking out the fork in the near future and getting a good post no silly suspension.. Kept the budget well under $100 basically $10 for new hanger $3 for shift cable and about $20 worth of already owned salvage parts seat, chain and pedals.




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Old 08-27-20, 05:56 PM
  #135  
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Puch keeper update

No one mentioned it but an earlier pic of the Puch displayed some great Mavic Pro gold deep rim wheels. They came from a parted out Felt I bought for $100 to rob it of Ultegra brifters and brakes for my Ironman upgrade. I did a test run on them but sadly put the original wheels back on for the challenge. Believe me they are going back on ASAP.
One of the original tires might be the first ever made Conti GP4000! I replaced both tires with a pair of well-used 28c Chen-Shins from a Vintage carbon Giant CFR-1 I put Spec Armadillos on.


I had to use a hammer to get the presta valve to release air from the thing!
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Old 08-27-20, 05:58 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by natloz
Rust paint applied before upholstery

covered




Total build at $35 so far. Just waiting on the grips
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Old 08-27-20, 06:04 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by Andy_K
I used primarily three techniques: (1) sanding by hand with a sanding belt pulled back and forth across the tubes, (2) a wire brush attachment on a power drill, and (3) CitriStrip.

i had originally wanted to do it without a chemical stripper. I experimented with various ways to use sand paper, and the sanding belt was the only thing that was in any way practical. This technique was pretty effective, but only for the uninterrupted smooth sections of the tubes. Also, it throws up a lot of dust and makes a serious mess. You definitely need some sort of particle filtering mask, and it will quickly dispel any illusions you have about non-chemical stripping being the safe approach.

The wire brush had only very localized effects on the bare paint. You’d never get the whole frame stripped this way. On the other hand, it’s pretty much the only way I found to get at the nooks and crannies, like the edges of the lugs. The wire brush was also much more effective on paint that had gotten the CitriStrip treatment.

The CitriStrip really got things done. In some places, the paint blistered and wiped off like dust. In other places, it only softened it. In all places, it was effective. If I had started with this, the job would have taken 90% less time. I don’t recall the safety/handling instructions for the CitriStrip, but I remember it seeming like one of the least hazardous products available. I used thick rubber kitchen gloves and a mask when working with it and didn’t have any problems.
Haven't used CitriStrip yet. I've used various other chemical strippers, a heat gun, and sandpaper / wire wheel.

I'd be more motivated to find a cleaner / easier stripping method if I didn't hate spray painting.
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Old 08-27-20, 06:08 PM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by J-Shooter

I got this Worksman from my LBS. Pretty rusty, partially repainted (poorly) with what looks like blue house paint. I'm particularly lucky to have a cool shop very close by, they usually have some of their personal projects in their shop. They didn't have any project ideas for this folder so they sold it to me for $40. I rode it for a week or so as-is. It was ridable but definitely needed some work.

​​​The first time I tried to fold and reassemble it, I felt the retaining nut in the hinge slip a thread. Fortunately the threads weren't terribly damaged, and the main culprit seemed to be a loose and worn-out nut. I chased the threads with a die and replaced the nut with a more precise one.

Next I rebuilt the coaster brake, the bottom bracket and the headset. No new parts needed there. I then replaced the handlebars with the original pair from my 1964 Schwinn turned Klunker, put on some old 90s rubber grips that were laying around and a brooks-style Selle Italia saddle from the 70s that was in the parts bin. I also put on a new chain and a crate on the rack to carry stuff while racking up miles.

The gearing was insane from the factory, it looks like what comes on their 26" bikes. I got tired of spinning out at 5 mph so I changed the cog for a spare. Then I got tired of spinning out at 10mph so I bought a 13t Sturmey Archer cog. Now I'm a fair bit on the other side of things, lol.

I'm $58 into the budget and overall very surprised how much I like it. Its very smooth and the geometry is surprisingly pleasant. I did a 10 mi ride yesterday and a 15 mi ride today with no issues.

Should I attempt a fixed wheel next?
​​​​​
That would look awesome with some Skyway mags.
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Old 08-27-20, 06:16 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by Narhay
Ok fancy boy
Yeah, should have gone with packing tape.
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Old 08-27-20, 10:25 PM
  #140  
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Alright.

I hadn't thought I'd participate in the Challenge this year.

Wife and I freed up a chunk of time next month by hiring a painter for our porch, instead of doing it ourselves.

So, more time (Yay!) and less money (Boo!). I can fit in one project bike. A 1995 Diamondback Joker:




Pulled this off a trash heap in 2019. It had been sitting outside for a while and I think it had spent some amount of time underwater. The wheels and bottom bracket were seized. The headset was surprisingly ok. Let's say it's worth $30.

But that drab charcoal gray is just too... bleh. - it needs a splash of color:


I have another set of wheels to toss on it, let's say $20 for them, along with $10 for some parts bin tires and tubes. Freewheel's currently soaking in paint thinner. I'll need pedals, grips, front brake housing, and a seat, all from from the parts bin, so another $15 there.

Reusing the original bars, stem, headset, cable detangler, rear brake, rear brake cable, cranks, and chainring. Not sure about brake levers, I may have tossed them,

I also have no idea how I'm going to ride 62 miles on this.
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Old 08-28-20, 12:26 AM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by RandolphCarter
Alright.

I hadn't thought I'd participate in the Challenge this year.

Wife and I freed up a chunk of time next month by hiring a painter for our porch, instead of doing it ourselves.

So, more time (Yay!) and less money (Boo!). I can fit in one project bike. A 1995 Diamondback Joker:




Pulled this off a trash heap in 2019. It had been sitting outside for a while and I think it had spent some amount of time underwater. The wheels and bottom bracket were seized. The headset was surprisingly ok. Let's say it's worth $30.

But that drab charcoal gray is just too... bleh. - it needs a splash of color:


I have another set of wheels to toss on it, let's say $20 for them, along with $10 for some parts bin tires and tubes. Freewheel's currently soaking in paint thinner. I'll need pedals, grips, front brake housing, and a seat, all from from the parts bin, so another $15 there.

Reusing the original bars, stem, headset, cable detangler, rear brake, rear brake cable, cranks, and chainring. Not sure about brake levers, I may have tossed them,

I also have no idea how I'm going to ride 62 miles on this.
Very nice 1st BMX and nice build.
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Old 08-28-20, 12:27 AM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by RandolphCarter
I also have no idea how I'm going to ride 62 miles on this.

Slowly. That's stopped me from picking up any of the 20" BMX projects posted in the classifieds. There is a 24" BMX cruiser listed locally... 🤔
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Old 08-28-20, 01:24 AM
  #143  
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Hey,RandolphCarter
https://columbus.craigslist.org/bik/...184056302.html

Diamondback Joker BMX - $150 (Laurelville)



A pair of jokers
I have 2 of these Diamonback Joker bmx 275.00 for the pair!!
There's some sort of BMX Renaissance happening.
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Old 08-28-20, 08:42 AM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by Unca_Sam

Slowly. That's stopped me from picking up any of the 20" BMX projects posted in the classifieds. There is a 24" BMX cruiser listed locally... 🤔
The market for nicer vintage BMX cruisers 24inches is really hot right now. If you can find something decent under $200 that is complete it would be flippable most places.
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Old 08-28-20, 08:43 AM
  #145  
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I might try with this, got it from a co-worker for fixing up his kid's bikes.

not lugged, not fillet brazed, welded, 20" fixed/free flip flop hub, took a fork for a 27" wheeled bike and trying it out, need rear brake. Or go back to the original fork, not sure.
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Old 08-28-20, 12:31 PM
  #146  
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Complete, time to ride

Originally Posted by natloz

Free bike that my 6 year old boy and I are going to transform on the cheap!
The bike is complete at $40 total. Just got the grips in mail today.







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Old 08-28-20, 02:09 PM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by bwilli88
I might try with this, got it from a co-worker for fixing up his kid's bikes.

not lugged, not fillet brazed, welded, 20" fixed/free flip flop hub, took a fork for a 27" wheeled bike and trying it out, need rear brake. Or go back to the original fork, not sure.
The "what are you thinking?" expression on your dog's face is the best part.

Also glad to see another BMX entered. I see no way this can end badly.
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Old 08-28-20, 04:43 PM
  #148  
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I have a qualifying entry!

I wasn't going to build the frame this way, but if I do I can see if I like the ride, and want to build it the way I want. It's a good excuse to get out of the FIFO project flow I like to stick to (so nothing goes unfinished). Paint prep is tedious 🙄.

Ladies and Gentlemen and everything in between, without further ado I present a 20.5" Raleigh Supercourse from 1973.

The partial bicycle, as received.

Stronglight cottered steel crank, suntour spirt FD

Suntour V GT Luxe RD

Sturmey archer steel hub laced to 27x1 ⅛ steel rims

simplex shifters

GB alloy stem with Maes bars

Weinmann levers, brass headbadge Dia Compe Weinmann copies. "White" carlton lever covers

High flange Normandy hub...

laced to this nice steel rim.

I actually received this bike from another forum member, for providing a tip on a stash of bikes going for $25 or less a piece. Cost: gratis. This really is a great community united through our common love of human powered vehicles.

I'm going to use parts on hand and source some tires and tubes and get this rolling. Maybe I'll try for 100km on one shot after a short shakedown.
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Old 08-28-20, 05:35 PM
  #149  
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Raleigh Supercourse cont'd


Patina? (It's rust)

Fork alignment marks

Huret cable guide to make up for the broken RD cable guide on the BB

I had planned on building this as a fixed/single speed bike, but the wheels for that alone wreck the budget, forget the BB, crankset, brake calipers and pads, fixed cogs, freewheel, 1/8" chainring, pedals, and saddle. I had bought a brake cable kit ($17) and a Dajia seatpost($25) from Velo Orange for the planned build that I'll have to use here. I also bought a Raleigh 'R' nut for the seatpost clamp ($9.14, lord help me &#128580 and I can't find the one that came with the bike, so I'll have to use it.
Thankfully, the forum member gave me two rough pairs of Atom 440 pedals with cages, and even crusty straps! I broke them down to degrease, derust, and rebuild this morning.

The Berthet pedals are for later. Atom 440 is front and center.

Stuck end cap

rusty chromed cages.
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Old 08-28-20, 06:34 PM
  #150  
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Here is a update on my Centurion. I have clean all of the paint off of the drive side fork , on the other side I just cleaned off the spray paint and left the original gold pain on the upper half. I have greased front and rear wheel bearings , put on a bottle bracket , got the front derailer cable moving so I now have all 10 gears. Also done some custom Commemorative lettering. I have been riding a few times and am at 35.94 miles.



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