jrg1244

I'm looking for a bit of help with a 1977 Schwinn Traveler that I'm working on currently... Most of the headset bearings were missing out of the existing headset, so I purchased a bag of 5/32 bearings and installed them, minus 2 bearings on top and bottom, to freshen things up. Now, I can't get the crown to screw flush down to the top cup. There is a small space there, no matter how many times I reinstall them with fresh grease and make sure they're on the outside edges of the cups before tightening things down. Did this headset use smaller bearings than 5/32? Any help is appreciated.

SurferRosa

If that bearing size doesn't work, yes you should probably try the next smaller size, 1/8".

When I've run into this issue, I use a retainer of dry bearings to test the fit.

It might help if we knew the make of the headset. You could post a pic.

Also, let us know the history. Did it ever work in its current condition?

juvela

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Sounds like you have done everything correctly.

Did you remember to fit the lockwasher that mounts between the adjustable race and the locknut?

Its absence would generate the symptom you describe.

There is nothing wrong with adding a second lockwasher, if required, to get the locknut to cinch down.

IIRC the Traveler comes with a Tange MA60 headset, or replica thereof.
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SurferRosa

Hmm. Maybe I interpreted the problem incorrectly:

​​​​​​​I assumed he meant he cannot smoothly rest the lower head tube cup down onto the crown race with the bearings in place before he even tries to adjust the upper parts of the headset.

3speedslow

Pics are needed.

jrg1244

Thanks for the input. The crown that won't screw all the way down is the one with the tapered surface for the bearings to ride against. Here are some pics of the issue, and the bike in it's current glory. I packed it with Park grease to make sure that the bearings wouldn't move away from the cup walls when I put it all together. I don't see any markings whatsoever on the headset, I'm thinking it's a "Schwinn Approved" house made Japanese unit. Thanks for taking the time to look.

juvela

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Thank you for the additional informations and photos.

Placing a bearing retainer upside down in the bearing cup could produce the symptom shown in this image.




For better clarity of communication with readers it would be helpful to use the accepted trade terminology for the parts of the headset -



Two articles you may find helpful for working with headsets -

https://bike.bikegremlin.com/3246/na...headset-parts/

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html


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jrg1244

Thanks, will try to use proper terminology from here on out.

There are no "bearings in retainer," as this is a loose ball bearing headset.

Maybe I should try flipping the bearings over one by one?

Sounds like I may need 1/8" bearings. Top and bottom at 5/32 would create about 1/16" additional stack height, which is about what I have between the "upper head tube race" and "adjustable race."

juvela

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The upper head cup appears rather tall/thick for this position.

Possible it was made that way or possible head parts are not a set - may have been cobbled together by someone who worked on the cycle in the past.

It might be that headset not of Japan origin. A Traveler model of this time may have been produced on Formosa by Giant. In which case headset would likely be of ROC origin...

Beginning in 1986-87 Travelers were manufactured at Schwinn's Greenville MS facility stateside.

Should you wish to consider an upgrade the Tange Levin model headset offers excellent "bang for the buck."

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SurferRosa

Way off topic, but it will be a cleaner look if you route the rear brake cable housing from its rear top tube stop under the top tube and then to the caliper, sorta as you have the cable routed to that front stop. I have the same issue with my Paramount with its modern side-pulls. This isn't an issue with center-pulls or ancient side-pulls with the cable entry on the other side. You'll likely need some cable cutters.

​​​​Looks like a fun, no nonsense build.