130mm rear wheel in a 135mm frame?
11-04-18, 12:33 PM
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130mm rear wheel in a 135mm frame?
I have a 130mm nice hand built wheelset with deore xt hubs (26 inch) and want to put them in a aluminum stumpjumer circa 1993. Can i just get a proper 135mm QR axle and a 2mm spacer for each side to go under the locknut? Seems pretty straight forward if this is the case.
These hubs are nice but they are the weirdo uniglide with internal hyperglide thread too (thank god). The freehub is only about 30mm so that means i wont be able to go any higher than 7 speed with it. I am not sure if i could pull the freehub and replace it with a 35mm or not yet. I figure one battle at a time. If so though, i could go to 8 or 9 speeds in the future.
These hubs are nice but they are the weirdo uniglide with internal hyperglide thread too (thank god). The freehub is only about 30mm so that means i wont be able to go any higher than 7 speed with it. I am not sure if i could pull the freehub and replace it with a 35mm or not yet. I figure one battle at a time. If so though, i could go to 8 or 9 speeds in the future.
11-04-18, 12:45 PM
#2
Banned
Add a 5mm spacer on the left axle end* and re dish the wheel to be recentered..
you actually take tension off the drive side spokes.. a slight improvement..
*A shimano steel axle freehub is easy to replace the Axle, and add that spacer..
...
you actually take tension off the drive side spokes.. a slight improvement..
*A shimano steel axle freehub is easy to replace the Axle, and add that spacer..
...
11-04-18, 01:59 PM
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Thanks. Wouldnt adding 2.5mm to each side keep it centered and not need the redish?
When you say left axle end do you mean drive or non drive side? Left could be either whether you are on the bike or looking at the bike head on.
When you say left axle end do you mean drive or non drive side? Left could be either whether you are on the bike or looking at the bike head on.
11-04-18, 02:26 PM
#4
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Yea but you gain lateral wheel strength in reducing the dish, imbalance,
so it's a win.
126 wheel in a 130 frame, that's what I did.. new axle..
(wheel I built in the 70's) new frame in the 90's..
so it's a win.
126 wheel in a 130 frame, that's what I did.. new axle..
(wheel I built in the 70's) new frame in the 90's..
11-04-18, 03:49 PM
#5
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Likely, not a problem, but something you may want to check first.
Adding the 5mm to the NDS results in a more symmetrical, thus stronger, wheel.
It's simple to do, because you don't have to touch the DS spokes. Just add a bit of tension equally to the NDS spokes until the rim is centered again.
Because of the geometry, that method will only add slightly more tension to the DS.
The rim is only "moving over" 2.5mm.
11-04-18, 04:18 PM
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Thanks for the input. Ill swing by the shop and get a proper 135mm rear axle and a spacer and try this.
i will probably just run the uniglide cassette with 7 speed for now. No real reason to switch it over to hyperglide when this cassette is just fine. I dont need more than 7 speed at the moment.
i will probably just run the uniglide cassette with 7 speed for now. No real reason to switch it over to hyperglide when this cassette is just fine. I dont need more than 7 speed at the moment.
11-04-18, 07:43 PM
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IF i do get a longer axle for the 135mm frameset i have, can i replace the freehub with a more modern 35mm freehub so that i can run 8/9 speed hyperglide cassettes? I will probably stay at 7 just because.......i dont really need 8/9 or more gears currently. Just curious if it is possible with an old SF M735 Deore XT hub like i have?
11-05-18, 04:42 AM
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If the frame is steel, just put it in and tighten it up. Have to be a bit more careful with aluminum and do not do it with carbon.
11-05-18, 06:33 AM
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You should totally be able to replace the cassette body.
11-05-18, 06:58 AM
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i am almost 100% sure i can replace like for like to a hyperglide Acera, STX-RC 7spd freehub. This is only 30mm so you can only use it with 7 speed. I am curious if you can swap it with a more modern wider one...i think they are ~35mm (even if i had to use the inner spindle interface from the uniglide).
That would allow me to run 8/9 speed or even 7 speed with a 4.5mm spacer behind the cassette.
That would allow me to run 8/9 speed or even 7 speed with a 4.5mm spacer behind the cassette.
11-05-18, 07:59 AM
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i am almost 100% sure i can replace like for like to a hyperglide Acera, STX-RC 7spd freehub. This is only 30mm so you can only use it with 7 speed. I am curious if you can swap it with a more modern wider one...i think they are ~35mm (even if i had to use the inner spindle interface from the uniglide).
That would allow me to run 8/9 speed or even 7 speed with a 4.5mm spacer behind the cassette.
That would allow me to run 8/9 speed or even 7 speed with a 4.5mm spacer behind the cassette.
When you disassemble the axle assembly to put the 135mm axle in there (you need the Wheels Manufacturing axle that is 135mm + 4.5mm extra length at each end or 146mm total length BTW), take a 10mm Allen wrench and remove the bolt holding on the freehub body. You can then fit a replacement Hyperglide body that will be 8, 9 or 10 speed compatible. There is a chance you might have a slight mismatch with the internal O-ring seals so some versions might allow water in if you ride in the rain a lot. I know folks have occasionally made their own seals using milk cartons and such.
Personally I would say that the current 7 speed one is bullet-proof, and will last practically forever. You can play around with cassette cogs and triple front chainring sizes if you are not happy with your current gear ratios.
11-05-18, 09:05 AM
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If staying with the 7-speed, add 5mm spacer to non-drive side only, then redish the wheel.
If moving to 8/9/10 speed freehub...
Distance from Spline Stop to the end of the drive side locknut must = 40.5mm. (That's required)
Rest of spacing efforts is on non-drive side to finish the 134.5 to 135.5mm OLD spec.
And there's no such thing as a no dish / zero dish wheel - so don't event try to play the spacing balancing game. That's a gimmick.
=8-)
If moving to 8/9/10 speed freehub...
Distance from Spline Stop to the end of the drive side locknut must = 40.5mm. (That's required)
Rest of spacing efforts is on non-drive side to finish the 134.5 to 135.5mm OLD spec.
And there's no such thing as a no dish / zero dish wheel - so don't event try to play the spacing balancing game. That's a gimmick.
=8-)
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5. My all time favorite book is:
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11-05-18, 10:37 AM
#14
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Only at 145 or wider , can you move the derailleur* hub to the right, enough to center the rim flanges
equidistant as the narrow base of a triangle, with the rim at the apex..
Tandems use this for their wheel strength needed with 2 aboard..
*IGH, with only 1 cog to make room for, and wider spaced flanges,
typically, manage to have scant if any dish ..
equidistant as the narrow base of a triangle, with the rim at the apex..
Tandems use this for their wheel strength needed with 2 aboard..
*IGH, with only 1 cog to make room for, and wider spaced flanges,
typically, manage to have scant if any dish ..
11-05-18, 10:50 AM
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Only at 145 or wider , can you move the derailleur* hub to the right, enough to center the rim flanges
equidistant as the narrow base of a triangle, with the rim at the apex..
Tandems use this for their wheel strength needed with 2 aboard..
*IGH, with only 1 cog to make room for, and wider spaced flanges,
typically, manage to have scant if any dish ..
equidistant as the narrow base of a triangle, with the rim at the apex..
Tandems use this for their wheel strength needed with 2 aboard..
*IGH, with only 1 cog to make room for, and wider spaced flanges,
typically, manage to have scant if any dish ..
How many times do I have to make it explicitly clear to you that for the 99.9999% of us who ride symmetrical frames...
...all bicycle wheels have dish?
Dual Flange Hub Wheels = 2 types of dish
Single Flange Hub Wheels = 1 type of dish
BOTH have dish no matter what.
Please stop trying to sell people a really bad idea....
Quote: " manage to have scant if any dish"
=8-|
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5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
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2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
11-05-18, 12:03 PM
#16
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OK relatively Symmetrical bracing vs Asymmetrical triangulation, bracing angles..
if you like those words better....
if you like those words better....
11-17-18, 05:09 PM
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Am i truly needing a 146mm axle here? I was at the LBS and picked up what i thought was the right length but it turns out it measures 145.2mm on my caliper. I am wondering if this will workout. I am going to try and try fit it to the frame in the rear to see if it has enough "bite" on each side.
11-17-18, 05:38 PM
#18
Banned
130 + the thickness of the dropouts (8mm is rather thick)..
Might cut it down.
[Put a nut on first to clear burrs from making the cut as you remove it. ]
each end only needs 1/2 the width of each dropout..
if as wide as the outside width leave those QR springs off,,
...
Might cut it down.
[Put a nut on first to clear burrs from making the cut as you remove it. ]
each end only needs 1/2 the width of each dropout..
if as wide as the outside width leave those QR springs off,,
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 11-17-18 at 05:41 PM.
11-17-18, 06:15 PM
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THanks. Yeah the dropouts are thick. Ill get a caliper on them to check them out. Axle fits and i think it is 1/2 way through on each side or just about. The axle isnt the same thickness as the dropouts....thats for sure. I am just hoping it is long enough. The only way i am going to know i suppose is find someone who has a 1993 and measure the rear axle length or .......measure, fit this one and see if it will work.
11-18-18, 08:26 AM
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looks like its 135.2 between the dropouts and each drop out is 7.5mm wide. That puts me at 150mm end to end and my axle is 145
11-18-18, 10:55 AM
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11-18-18, 11:54 AM
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The extra 1mm covers rounded off edges about a 1/2mm each side...but the actual spec is M10 x 145MM.
That's what is required for a 135mm setup.
4-5mm past the locknuts on each side is all you need. It'll work.
=8-)
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5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
11-18-18, 04:01 PM
#24
Blamester
Respace the axle thats on there see how it works.
I have been running a respaced 126mm hub in a 130 mm alloy frame for years and zero issues.
You only need a mil of axle in the dropouts.
There is no where for the wheel to go. It can't fall out.
You have to crack both cones and lock nuts. Best add a spacer nds only and redish.
Don't make it compicated try to keep it simple and it may work very well.
I have been running a respaced 126mm hub in a 130 mm alloy frame for years and zero issues.
You only need a mil of axle in the dropouts.
There is no where for the wheel to go. It can't fall out.
You have to crack both cones and lock nuts. Best add a spacer nds only and redish.
Don't make it compicated try to keep it simple and it may work very well.
11-18-18, 05:27 PM
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Respace the axle thats on there see how it works.
I have been running a respaced 126mm hub in a 130 mm alloy frame for years and zero issues.
You only need a mil of axle in the dropouts.
There is no where for the wheel to go. It can't fall out.
You have to crack both cones and lock nuts. Best add a spacer nds only and redish.
Don't make it compicated try to keep it simple and it may work very well.
I have been running a respaced 126mm hub in a 130 mm alloy frame for years and zero issues.
You only need a mil of axle in the dropouts.
There is no where for the wheel to go. It can't fall out.
You have to crack both cones and lock nuts. Best add a spacer nds only and redish.
Don't make it compicated try to keep it simple and it may work very well.
=8-)
__________________
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life