What unlikely tools or products do you keep in your bike repair/restoration toolbox?
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Home made cotter pin press...
Two x Four lumber for frame work...
Big bolt for fixed cup removal/installation...
Alloy polishing wheel home made...
Home made truing stand and dishing tool...
Aluminum foil for polishing races and cleaning off chrome plating...
Two x Four lumber for frame work...
Big bolt for fixed cup removal/installation...
Alloy polishing wheel home made...
Home made truing stand and dishing tool...
Aluminum foil for polishing races and cleaning off chrome plating...
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Cotton swabs with hollow plastic stems. Great for making liners that thread through metal cable guides on bottom brackets and seat clusters, to prevent metal on metal abrasion. Slicks up the feel of shifting and braking. I tried that when I couldn't find any cable liner locally. Works fine.
#29
elcraft
I too, have a home made Cotterpin press. But as I am a goldsmith, I have a vast assortment of rotary tools, particularly burs. I really like Cut-off silicon carbide discs for trimming cut cable housing ends. I have at least five professional grade flexible shaft machines with expensive quick release handpieces, that speed up tool bit changes, too. While most people can get by with a Dremel style tool, I have so many more options on rotary tools than most people. I am also fan of larger tweezers for placing or retrieving ball bearings. I have assorted grinding wheels for thinning or modifying tools for specific jobs, e.g., thinning a cone wrench for adjusting Huret pulley cones. I have altered cone wrenches for Sturmey Archer projects, as well.
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Taking a fixed cup off while on tour is way down on the list of things I need to carry the tools for. I’ve done close to 20,000 miles of loaded touring and never had to do any kind of maintenance on a bottom bracket. For the shop, I think you are talking about the Sheldon Brown method but I’ve never found that work all that well. This method works much better.
Nope. I reuse my grips and I’m not going to use an oil on them. I’d rather have my grips not be lubricated so that they just spin on the bars.
Nope. I reuse my grips and I’m not going to use an oil on them. I’d rather have my grips not be lubricated so that they just spin on the bars.
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On the other hand I have a bit of rubber refrigerator magnet. Way too weak to magnetize anything but strong enough to pull ball bearings out of a bearing cup and out of the OMS after a good bath.
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I too, have a home made Cotterpin press. But as I am a goldsmith, I have a vast assortment of rotary tools, particularly burs. I really like Cut-off silicon carbide discs for trimming cut cable housing ends. I have at least five professional grade flexible shaft machines with expensive quick release handpieces, that speed up tool bit changes, too. While most people can get by with a Dremel style tool, I have so many more options on rotary tools than most people. I am also fan of larger tweezers for placing or retrieving ball bearings. I have assorted grinding wheels for thinning or modifying tools for specific jobs, e.g., thinning a cone wrench for adjusting Huret pulley cones. I have altered cone wrenches for Sturmey Archer projects, as well.
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I had trouble with steel tweezers being slightly magnetic and not releasing the balls. In my pile of "interesting materials" is a bit of scrap bamboo flooring. I've made 2 or 3 bamboo tweezers. Work great and do not get magnetized.
On the other hand I have a bit of rubber refrigerator magnet. Way too weak to magnetize anything but strong enough to pull ball bearings out of a bearing cup and out of the OMS after a good bath.
On the other hand I have a bit of rubber refrigerator magnet. Way too weak to magnetize anything but strong enough to pull ball bearings out of a bearing cup and out of the OMS after a good bath.
I have several different sizes of ball bearing tweezers, and I DO have problems with them being magnetized. I have a small, non-electrically-powered demagnetizer and it does a marginal job of de-magging my tools. I really get pissy when I have to do a lot of ball-bearing jobs, and I rely heavily upon the tackiness of the grease to pull off the bearing balls and set the balls into place. I really must get a better demagnetizer!
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Sounds reasonable, but if you happen to come across a flat bar that's being discarded, try the WD-40 method for removing and reinstalling grips as an experiment. You'll find that the grip comes off easily (obviously) and goes back on easily but then adheres to the bar. Seems counterintuitive, but the grip stays put.
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Sounds reasonable, but if you happen to come across a flat bar that's being discarded, try the WD-40 method for removing and reinstalling grips as an experiment. You'll find that the grip comes off easily (obviously) and goes back on easily but then adheres to the bar. Seems counterintuitive, but the grip stays put.
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Interesting solution.
I have several different sizes of ball bearing tweezers, and I DO have problems with them being magnetized. I have a small, non-electrically-powered demagnetizer and it does a marginal job of de-magging my tools. I really get pissy when I have to do a lot of ball-bearing jobs, and I rely heavily upon the tackiness of the grease to pull off the bearing balls and set the balls into place. I really must get a better demagnetizer!
I have several different sizes of ball bearing tweezers, and I DO have problems with them being magnetized. I have a small, non-electrically-powered demagnetizer and it does a marginal job of de-magging my tools. I really get pissy when I have to do a lot of ball-bearing jobs, and I rely heavily upon the tackiness of the grease to pull off the bearing balls and set the balls into place. I really must get a better demagnetizer!
#37
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Interesting solution.
I have several different sizes of ball bearing tweezers, and I DO have problems with them being magnetized. I have a small, non-electrically-powered demagnetizer and it does a marginal job of de-magging my tools. I really get pissy when I have to do a lot of ball-bearing jobs, and I rely heavily upon the tackiness of the grease to pull off the bearing balls and set the balls into place. I really must get a better demagnetizer!
I have several different sizes of ball bearing tweezers, and I DO have problems with them being magnetized. I have a small, non-electrically-powered demagnetizer and it does a marginal job of de-magging my tools. I really get pissy when I have to do a lot of ball-bearing jobs, and I rely heavily upon the tackiness of the grease to pull off the bearing balls and set the balls into place. I really must get a better demagnetizer!
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This DIY tool for spreading rear dropouts and forks was a staple of the first LBS where I worked back in the late 80s. When that shop was closing and the owner let me choose any tool I wanted, this was the one.
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Too late:
Looks like a good way to keep fuzz out of your hair and eyes when using a polishing wheel on aluminum parts...
Looks like a good way to keep fuzz out of your hair and eyes when using a polishing wheel on aluminum parts...
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I buy aerosol carburetor and brake cleaner by the case. I use it to remove grips both on golf clubs and bikes. I dries clean and within less than a minute so the grips can be reused easily and quickly. It can also be used to lubricate during a grip install. Not something most keep in the tool box. Smiles, MH
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Interesting. Is 1 hand force enough, or only for bodybuilder-type mechanics??
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Not bike related, but I heard hunters use condoms on their rifle muzzles to keep them clean in wet/muddy environments.
Last edited by Reynolds; 02-07-21 at 04:57 PM.
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#48
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Reverse tweezer for bearings
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I've been a mechanic in one form or another my entire life, and I've never heard of this. Weed must be legal in your state...
#50
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1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
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1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
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