Where to find low rider racks without a hoop?
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Where to find low rider racks without a hoop?
Such as these. I believe the first example used to be sold by Rivendell but is no more. Is the hoop design just that much sturdier?
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Second type is the Blackburn Custom. They turn up occasionally. I saw a set at the last swap meet in Westminster MD. I have not used them but the design uses two sections on each side and a through bolt in the fork blade holds it together.
Last edited by thumpism; 03-17-21 at 09:24 PM.
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Tubus. You need to have a bolt hole that goes through the fork blade.
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Yeah, the Tubus Duo is like this, but my dad toured on one for 3 months and it broke from fatigue where the two top tubes of the rack that go on either side of the fork blade are welded together near the front. Poor design, IMO. I brazed it back together, but sold it on a flip. He and I use one with a hoop now. May even be lighter weight, in spite of looking bulkier/dorkier.
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I have the Blackburn Custom lowriders and didn’t have any issues with them on a Cannondale and my 87 Voyageur but on my Specialized Expedition they seemed a little less stable so I think the bike has a little to do with the sturdiness. Unfortunately the 86 Voyageur doesn’t have the through hole in the fork for them.
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I have the Blackburn Custom lowriders and didn’t have any issues with them on a Cannondale and my 87 Voyageur but on my Specialized Expedition they seemed a little less stable so I think the bike has a little to do with the sturdiness. Unfortunately the 86 Voyageur doesn’t have the through hole in the fork for them.
Last edited by polymorphself; 03-18-21 at 12:09 AM.
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@northbend says yes.
My version:
I brazed a tube through the neutral plane of the fork as well as the large diameter tube on the rack. That allows a long bolt with a nylok nut to attach without squeezing either the fork blades or rack tubing. I used a 5/8" top tube, which matches the Ortlieb QR system clamps. The larger diameter tube also creates stiffness so the racks won't flop in towards the wheel. I curved the attachment points to the dropout attachment to allow from some compliance as the fork flexes. Note that Matt's Tubus Duo rack achieves all of these design particulars in a different way.
My version:
I brazed a tube through the neutral plane of the fork as well as the large diameter tube on the rack. That allows a long bolt with a nylok nut to attach without squeezing either the fork blades or rack tubing. I used a 5/8" top tube, which matches the Ortlieb QR system clamps. The larger diameter tube also creates stiffness so the racks won't flop in towards the wheel. I curved the attachment points to the dropout attachment to allow from some compliance as the fork flexes. Note that Matt's Tubus Duo rack achieves all of these design particulars in a different way.
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@northbend says yes.
My version:
I brazed a tube through the neutral plane of the fork as well as the large diameter tube on the rack. That allows a long bolt with a nylok nut to attach without squeezing either the fork blades or rack tubing. I used a 5/8" top tube, which matches the Ortlieb QR system clamps. The larger diameter tube also creates stiffness so the racks won't flop in towards the wheel. I curved the attachment points to the dropout attachment to allow from some compliance as the fork flexes. Note that Matt's Tubus Duo rack achieves all of these design particulars in a different way.
My version:
I brazed a tube through the neutral plane of the fork as well as the large diameter tube on the rack. That allows a long bolt with a nylok nut to attach without squeezing either the fork blades or rack tubing. I used a 5/8" top tube, which matches the Ortlieb QR system clamps. The larger diameter tube also creates stiffness so the racks won't flop in towards the wheel. I curved the attachment points to the dropout attachment to allow from some compliance as the fork flexes. Note that Matt's Tubus Duo rack achieves all of these design particulars in a different way.
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The first photo is the Tubus rack I was thinking of.
If the bolt hole goes all the way through, it will work fine. If not, the same rack with a U-tube is available. I would buy another fork before I modified one. It is good to have a low-trail fork if you want to load a lot on the front.
If the bolt hole goes all the way through, it will work fine. If not, the same rack with a U-tube is available. I would buy another fork before I modified one. It is good to have a low-trail fork if you want to load a lot on the front.
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Good point, there are a lot forks built with just an M5 bottle boss brazed onto the outside of the fork. That's a very small braze to hold back a lot of stress. I've seen frames where this bit broke off, not something you want to happen while flying down hill with a floppy rack and pannier. The hoop seen on 3 piece front racks supports the racks from doing this, so if you have just an outter attachment to the fork blade, I'd recommend going with one of those.
If there's a through hole on the fork blade, I'd make sure that there's a tube that's brazed into both sides to support the fork blade from being squeezed down. I've seen at least one production frame made without one (don't remember make and model).
If there's a through hole on the fork blade, I'd make sure that there's a tube that's brazed into both sides to support the fork blade from being squeezed down. I've seen at least one production frame made without one (don't remember make and model).
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