Painting 1977 frame: remove bb and other questions??
04-07-21, 03:25 PM
#76
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Posts: 48
Bikes: 1977 Trek
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 22 Times
in
7 Posts
Likes For ts99:
04-07-21, 03:35 PM
#77
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Portland, Cascadia
Posts: 514
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 226 Post(s)
Liked 258 Times
in
112 Posts
Does it seem a little "bluer" than before or is that just the lighting?
Likes For jPrichard10:
04-07-21, 04:41 PM
#78
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,043
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 267 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4512 Post(s)
Liked 6,382 Times
in
3,669 Posts
12-19-21, 08:57 AM
#79
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Los Angeles/Savannah
Posts: 31
Bikes: 1980 Bianchi Super Leggera, 1980 Raleigh Professional, 1980 Olmo Competition, 1975 Colnago Super, 1987 Davidson Explorer, 1988 Schwinn Circuit, 1976 Masi Gran Criterium
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked 16 Times
in
8 Posts
Question about Carlsbad Light Blue Metallic paint
I have a Carlsbad #793 Masi that I would like to repaint it’s light metallic blue. Do you know
Which DuPont paint is closest to the original color? Lt. metallic blue or Lt. Continental metallic blue?
Repaints I have seen usually have a blue that looks too dark. Thanks,
Lord Donnington
Savannah, GA
Which DuPont paint is closest to the original color? Lt. metallic blue or Lt. Continental metallic blue?
Repaints I have seen usually have a blue that looks too dark. Thanks,
Lord Donnington
Savannah, GA
that frame appears like it skipped a few stages before the color coat.
As Mr. Fattic mentions, Light blue metallic is a challenge to get good coverage.
I have a light metallic blue Carlsbad Masi what has issues.
In discussion with Brian Baylis a number of years ago, he stated that the owner brought over some "new" primer sealer from his other company, Elixir Industries, they made various aluminum extrusion based products.
Anyway, the experiment was not successful long term. The sealer broke free of the metal. I have a tough decision to make as I like the transfers very much, the replicas are good but the yellow type color is off.
Later Masi bikes where all the lettering was yellow were a darker more marigold yellow.
As Mr. Fattic mentions, Light blue metallic is a challenge to get good coverage.
I have a light metallic blue Carlsbad Masi what has issues.
In discussion with Brian Baylis a number of years ago, he stated that the owner brought over some "new" primer sealer from his other company, Elixir Industries, they made various aluminum extrusion based products.
Anyway, the experiment was not successful long term. The sealer broke free of the metal. I have a tough decision to make as I like the transfers very much, the replicas are good but the yellow type color is off.
Later Masi bikes where all the lettering was yellow were a darker more marigold yellow.
12-19-21, 12:05 PM
#80
Full Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: ETX/ SNH
Posts: 225
Bikes: 2011 Handsome/ Twin Six Speedy Devil, 2006 Soma Groove, 1991 Haro Impulse Comp, 1987 KHS Montana Pro, 1986 Ross Mount Hood, 1986 Mongoose ATB, 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker I, 1973 World Voyageur, 1941 Schwinn DX "Klunker"
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 83 Post(s)
Liked 96 Times
in
45 Posts
For rattle can DIYers Duplicolor makes a light blue metallic that looks very similar to that ice blue imron. It's called Avignon Blue a Honda color.
You can see it on the second incarnation of my klunker build.
You can see it on the second incarnation of my klunker build.
Likes For MrK.:
12-19-21, 12:43 PM
#81
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,905
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4806 Post(s)
Liked 3,928 Times
in
2,553 Posts
A cheap approach to paint (but your color choices will be very limited). Hand brushed 2-part epoxy. Requires all the prep of professional wet paint or powder coat but simply a brush or two, the paint, epoxy and lacquer thinner, masking tape and a couple of jars. No primer is required. Epoxy paint had the property that as it sets up, it flows. Brush marks disappear.
I've done this with a couple of bikes many years ago but little has changed. End result isn't as hard and scratch resistant as the good paints but done right, hard to chip. Plus, thorough cleaning, sanding with fine sandpaper, another wipe with epoxy and lacquer thinner and the bike is ready for a brand new coat. You can patch chips, etc, with epoxy putty and sand that out first if you want.
I've been procrastinating but one project on the back burner is to get new ESGE/SKS road fenders, cut them out as needed to fit then paint with yellow epoxy to go on my fire engine red ti bike (with yellow accented decals). That's been the intended color scheme since I dreamed up this custom but in the 13 years I've had it, I've never seen yellow road fenders I could plunk my money down and buy.
I've done this with a couple of bikes many years ago but little has changed. End result isn't as hard and scratch resistant as the good paints but done right, hard to chip. Plus, thorough cleaning, sanding with fine sandpaper, another wipe with epoxy and lacquer thinner and the bike is ready for a brand new coat. You can patch chips, etc, with epoxy putty and sand that out first if you want.
I've been procrastinating but one project on the back burner is to get new ESGE/SKS road fenders, cut them out as needed to fit then paint with yellow epoxy to go on my fire engine red ti bike (with yellow accented decals). That's been the intended color scheme since I dreamed up this custom but in the 13 years I've had it, I've never seen yellow road fenders I could plunk my money down and buy.
12-19-21, 12:46 PM
#82
Strong Walker
Hmm... to illustrate what a similar bike would look like in Imron Enamel wet paint
almost a TREK:
for some applications, powdercoat is the sensible option because of reasons that have been named.
To bring out frame detail and lug workmanship on a collectible, i think wet paint is the way to go.
almost a TREK:
for some applications, powdercoat is the sensible option because of reasons that have been named.
To bring out frame detail and lug workmanship on a collectible, i think wet paint is the way to go.
12-19-21, 12:58 PM
#83
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bastrop Texas
Posts: 4,479
Bikes: Univega, Peu P6, Peu PR-10, Ted Williams, Peu UO-8, Peu UO-18 Mixte, Peu Dolomites
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 966 Post(s)
Liked 1,629 Times
in
1,045 Posts
OK... I'll chime in... Take it all apart and get out the flash light and inspect that frame inside and out. I have rattle can painted many frames successfully but now days I think I have old frame painting down...
I treat the inside of the frame with a solution of 50/50 Linseed oil and denatured alcohol then let it dry in my Texas Attic. Its a one time treatment that's cheap and works.
After prepping the frame I spray a coat of Rustolium Etching Primer on it and then let that fully dry.
I hand paint the frame with a brush using Rustoulium Oil Base paint that is a mix of Rustolium Oil Enamel and Penitrol of a mix 90/10. The results are astounding and may not even need a second coat.
I'm a do it yourself guy. For me time spent painting frames is time away from my next ride; so I try to make it fast and simple. Of course this is a way of doing it and not the way to do it... Fun Fun Fun...
I treat the inside of the frame with a solution of 50/50 Linseed oil and denatured alcohol then let it dry in my Texas Attic. Its a one time treatment that's cheap and works.
After prepping the frame I spray a coat of Rustolium Etching Primer on it and then let that fully dry.
I hand paint the frame with a brush using Rustoulium Oil Base paint that is a mix of Rustolium Oil Enamel and Penitrol of a mix 90/10. The results are astounding and may not even need a second coat.
I'm a do it yourself guy. For me time spent painting frames is time away from my next ride; so I try to make it fast and simple. Of course this is a way of doing it and not the way to do it... Fun Fun Fun...
__________________
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)Last edited by zandoval; 12-20-21 at 01:48 PM.
12-22-21, 10:58 AM
#84
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 20,305
Mentioned: 130 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3464 Post(s)
Liked 2,829 Times
in
1,995 Posts
I have a Carlsbad #793 Masi that I would like to repaint it’s light metallic blue. Do you know
Which DuPont paint is closest to the original color? Lt. metallic blue or Lt. Continental metallic blue?
Repaints I have seen usually have a blue that looks too dark. Thanks,
Lord Donnington
Savannah, GA
Which DuPont paint is closest to the original color? Lt. metallic blue or Lt. Continental metallic blue?
Repaints I have seen usually have a blue that looks too dark. Thanks,
Lord Donnington
Savannah, GA
They are very close.
All the paint companies can match to each other.
You are correct, that light blue is a trick. It actually has a bit of yellow in it.
There were of course two Blues, the middle blue metallic gets mismatched often also.
I am trying to get over to a small automotive paint supplier and work with the owner/mixer to see how I can match it..
Pretty sure its going to be totally by eye, but no doubt we will start with an vehicle OEM color.
My goal actually is to achieve a close enough match to spot fade in a blend.
The fork paint on one is toast, so will walk in with that and dab the mixed colors on, starting with the closest OEM.
Hopefully this year.
Last edited by repechage; 12-22-21 at 11:01 AM.
01-03-22, 11:07 PM
#85
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Los Angeles/Savannah
Posts: 31
Bikes: 1980 Bianchi Super Leggera, 1980 Raleigh Professional, 1980 Olmo Competition, 1975 Colnago Super, 1987 Davidson Explorer, 1988 Schwinn Circuit, 1976 Masi Gran Criterium
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked 16 Times
in
8 Posts
Masi light metallic blue
I will post photos of my frame once it returns from Jim Allen. It will be the lighter blue closer to what Richard Sachs had JB paint his two Masi restorations 20 odd years ago. And closer to my own original paint #670 from early ‘75.
01-03-22, 11:27 PM
#86
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Menomonee Falls, WI
Posts: 1,834
Bikes: 1984 Schwinn Supersport, 1988 Trek 400T, 1977 Trek TX900, 1982 Bianchi Champione del Mondo, 1978 Raleigh Supercourse, 1986 Trek 400 Elance, 1991 Waterford PDG OS Paramount, 1971 Schwinn Sports Tourer, 1985 Trek 670
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 604 Post(s)
Liked 1,064 Times
in
535 Posts
My 77 TX900 was originally ice blue, and the PO road the snot out of it. He had it repainted by Trek, years later, in metallic white, another stock color used in 77. Unfortunately Trek had ceased using Imron as their factory paint by then. After reading through this thread, and seeing how the OPs bike turned out, I kind of wish he had stuck with the ice blue.
Tim
77 TX900
Tim
77 TX900
Last edited by tkamd73; 01-03-22 at 11:33 PM.
