Freddie60

Hi,
I'm just getting started with maintaining all my bikes. My wife and I both have a gravel / road bike, a mtn bike and a fat bike. One of the gravel bikes is Carbon. We are looking to get some advice on some of the tools we need.

Torque Wrench:
Most of the smaller wrenches show 2 - 10 N-m up to 2 - 24 N-m. What range would be sufficient?
Also allen keys that come with the wrench. What sizes should we make sure we have? Most are either 2 - 10, 2 - 8 mm or 3 - 10 mm.
Any Std Torx keys that we should have. Most wrenches come with a combo of T-10, T-25 or T-30.

Chain Whip:
How do we make sure we get the right chain whip? Not sure what determines which one to get. Two of the bikes are 12 speed shimano. 3 of the bikes are 11 speed Shimano. The last bike is 11 speed Sun Race derailler.

Spoke Keys:
Any preference for one style over the other?

thanks,

cxwrench

For a torque wrench I'd say x-15 or so is fine. Anything higher than that you can just tighten it really tight. Whatever wrench bits that come w/ it are fine, you don't need anything bigger than 5 or 6mm w/ the lower torque settings. Do you need any torx wrenches? If your bike has the need then get what you need, no use having what you don't need. Most common is T25, Shimano chainring bolts now use T30. If you want to bleed SRAM brakes, T10. Any current non single speed (1/8" chain) chain whip will work. Don't drop a ton of $$ on it, you'll break it at some point. I ALWAYS mount my Shimano cassette lockring tool in a vice, much easier that way. I like the Park SW-0 type spoke wrench, for some reason I don't get along w/ the SW-40 style. If the nipples twist/round out/break w/ the normal one you've got bigger problems anyway. I use side cutters for cables and brake housing, and a cable cutter just for shift housing. I use the SRAM one w/ the awl/pokey tool in the handle. I don't grind/dremel the ends, there's no need if you make a nice cut.

Freddie60

Thx cxwrench. That is most helpful. Any suggested cheap brands for the torque wrench? Venzo? Probike? BBB?

Charliekeet

I've found Venzo preset torque keys to be perfectly fine for me. For a nicer, multi-value one I'd love to have the Pedro's, but I don't need it often enough to justify.

Reflector Guy

I use this torque wrench: I read that Tekton also makes the torque wrenches that Park Tools sells, so it is probably the same item minus the blue paint.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For bikes, I use a 1/4"-drive ratchet and a set of 1/4"-drive Allen sockets. They are perfect for the small fasteners and low torque values on a bike, compared to,say, a car where my larger tools are more appropriate.

Greiselman

I also endorse this specific option... I've been using it for more than a year and zero issues or concerns.

Freddie60

Hi all,
Thanks for all your help and recommendations. Would it just make more sense to order the Park Tool TW5.2 Torque wrench for the extra $30 or so? Would rather have quality and accuracy for this item. The Spoke key, chain whip, etc I can skimp on.

Eric F 

I recently purchased the Pro Bike Tool torque wrench, and am very happy with it for the final turn on bolts that need the special attention of a specific torque. One of the reasons why I picked it over the Tekton was that the PBT wrench has the torque scale in even Nm increments, which is the scale used for bike parts. I also like that it comes with (mostly) all the sockets you'll need.

For general bolt and nut turning, I used a couple of Park Tool Y-wrenches and a haphazard collection of L-pattern allen keys - they got the job done for years. Recently, I replaced them with the T-handle set from Feedback Sports. Nice stuff!

My bike tool kit also includes a small phillips screwdriver, a small straight-blade screwdriver, a 3/8" drive ratchet with 8mm and 10mm hex drivers, a short-handle 1/4" drive ratchet, 1/4" drive 8-9-10-12mm sockets, screwdriver-handle bit driver, and a bit set that includes 2-6mm hex and T25 bits. Additionally, I have a variety of specialty tools for specific tasks that have collected over the years - freewheel and cassette tools, bottom bracket tools, crank-puller, cone wrenches... A good cable cutter is a necessity. Other handy tools include scissors and needle-nose pliers.

blacknbluebikes 

BBB torque wrench been serving me flawlessly for years now. Never needed more than 8Nm. I do have a larger beam-type, can't remember last time I used it. Get one in a case with hex key sockets, I take that case with me if I'm leaving the "riding area" on trips, etc.

Reflector Guy

In actual whole numbers? That is nice.

For those that don't know, the Tekton torque wrench is marked such that you have to first pick the closest increment on the scale and then turn the ring to make up the difference so the total equals the torque you are aiming for. Not difficult, but it requires you to use a lot of extra care so that you set it correctly.

Eric F 

Yes. The scale on the PBT wrench is whole Nm numbers, with the ring to adjust for partial units. I have yet to see a bike bolt specified to be anything other than whole Nm numbers. I guess the down side of the PBT wrench is that it only has the Nm scale, so using it on non-bike tasks that use in-lb specs, you'll have to do some conversion. For me, this is not an issue.

wheelingmike

Although I have a very nice digital torque wrench in my toolbox, this is the one I use 99% of the time on my bike. It's so easy to use and I don't have to listen for the click. It slips when the set torque is reached preventing over tightening. I highly recommend it.

https://www.amazon.com/Products-Torq.../dp/B01DIRD5CG

veganbikes

Cheap tools aren't worth the time or money. Get the absolute best tools you can buy unless you are going to dispose of them after a use or two.

A heavily used tool should be top of the range and any tool that requires accuracy should also be of high quality.

For hex and Torx wrenches, PB Swiss, Wera, Silca, Beta...
For torque tools, Topeak, Snap-On, CDI (owned by Snap-On), Effetto Mariposa...However for a lower cost option Park and Pedro's make some great stuff and you can also find some decent preset torque stuff. The Park ATD-1.2 is a great choice for the average user without a ton of cost and still has a few settings for average stuff.
For Spoke keys, that is a what feels best in your hands but a quality one is not a bad thing, I have a Park Master Key and it is comfortable in my hand. P&K Lie, DT Swiss, Pedros, Cyclus and probably some others I missed make some other good stuff.

Get a chain whip that makes sense for the gears you have. If it is 12 speed probably the Park SR-12.2 would work just fine but really anyone that feels comfortable in the hands as you can put any chain on it. I prefer the cassette pliers myself but Pedros/Zinn makes a cog holder that works nicely.

Geepig

Hmm, but don't the first and second statements disagree

I bought my 3/8" Snap-on ratchet in about 1980, and it could do with its third repair kit - and it still sees regular use with my 10 mm and 13 mm deep sockets and extension. Still, I have loads of cheap sockets to go with it, for when I come across BA nuts (rare here in Poland) or someone twists my arm into rebuilding something not bike related. My 1/4" bar and extension are unmarked, but never drop a socket.

If you don't have a pocket as deep as some seem to have on here, weigh up each purchase in terms of effectiveness for the job and how often it will see use.

GAtkins

I read on here somewhere I think that CDI makes tools for and is owned by Snap-On, or vice versa.

Whoops, missed veganbikes post above.

gsa103

For home use, a 5Nm fixed value torque driver covers probably 95% of the small fasteners. Look at the stems and other things on your bike and see what the torque value is for them. If you need less than 5Nm
I highly recommend a good set of Wera metric hex keys, they're excellent. Get the versions with a ball end for better access in weird places.

veganbikes

Nope they don't disagree. They are complimentary. The moral is get good tools and they will generally last quite a while. You even said it yourself your have your same Snap-On from 1980 and is still going and if it does crap the bed, you can get on the Snap-On truck and get it replaced or repaired (though not sure about Poland you may just have to go online, or something?)

Dyskolos

You may also want to take a look at Pedro's Vise Whip. I find it easier to handle.

Iride01 

You'll spend more money buying tools you may never use than waiting till you need the tools.

Bikes don't need many special tools. A torque wrench IMO is unnecessary unless you can't stop yourself from tightening till the bolt breaks or strips. It's unlikely you'll find a torque wrench that is appropriate size and accurate through out the entire ranges of torques and sizes of nuts and bolts on your bike. Probably two torque wrenches if not three.