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Spagetti legs to the rescue

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Old 04-05-21, 07:27 PM
  #1  
Mad Honk 
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Spagetti legs to the rescue

I promised legs that I would post some pics of his rescue of my 40 hole Campy hubs with his damaged hub that he sent to me. The bearing race transplant was a success and now my hubs work like new. Thanks to Spagetti legs. Here are the pics:

old races compared with new ones

bind bore bearing race remover tool

Removal tool in old hub

Removal tool with bearing attached after removal

bearing ready for transplant

Bearing race being installed

new race after install
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Old 04-05-21, 10:05 PM
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Dave,
Impressive as usual.
Best, Ben
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Old 04-06-21, 04:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Mad Honk
I promised legs that I would post some pics of his rescue of my 40 hole Campy hubs with his damaged hub that he sent to me. The bearing race transplant was a success and now my hubs work like new. Thanks to Spagetti legs. Here are the pics:


Removal tool with bearing attached
Mad, for us woodworkers and art history majors, how so you get the race/cup out? After the tool is locked into the cup ID, then what? I did this transplant on a hub once but was able to tap the cups out from the opposite side, plus a lot of heat. I know you cannot must pull on them and they slide put. Thanks
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Old 04-06-21, 06:48 AM
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That is some mad surgical skill there Dave. Well done and I’m really glad you were able to use it.

Side note, I’m kind of curious if you counted the ball bearings that came with the hub shell. I found one on the floor a few days ago and I hope it came out of the one I sent you and not the hub I used in the rebuild 😬
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Old 04-06-21, 06:59 AM
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@Prowler - I haven't done this on a hub but I did pull some bearing out of a Snap On impact wrench as part of a rebuild. The tool I used is
P1040837 on Flickr

A bit expensive but I so auto axle bearings and other mechanical repair. Multiple sizes so it works out well. The slide hammer screws into the portion of the tool that is opposite the item being removed. In my case, I had to find the interface between the bearing and the housing to get the tool to wedge between. Sometimes the item is a smaller diameter allowing for better purchase.
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Old 04-06-21, 09:51 AM
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a mad honkin' project.
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Old 04-08-21, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Prowler
Mad, for us woodworkers and art history majors, how so you get the race/cup out? After the tool is locked into the cup ID, then what? I did this transplant on a hub once but was able to tap the cups out from the opposite side, plus a lot of heat. I know you cannot must pull on them and they slide put. Thanks
Prowler,
I'm sorry I thought I posted an answer for you. I use a drift pin made of a solid axle and drop it through the hub, while resting the flange in the open jaws of my vise that is the one housing the bearing race. I am careful to keep the flange supported by as much of the flange that I can. The idea is to not bend the flange while removing the bearing. I then use the help of a hammer and tap the bearing out. It comes out fairly easily but sometime it takes a bit more persuasion. After I install the new bearing race I have special jig so I can polish the hubs back to a nice new look. I will have to post some pics of the process. Perhaps later here. Smiles, MH
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Old 04-08-21, 05:53 PM
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He I've read that it can be done and that is one of many beautiful things about the Campy hub. But for me, it is good enough that a pitted Campy race fells better in the hand than many sealed bearing hubs and I leave them alone.
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Old 04-09-21, 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Mad Honk
.... I then use the help of a hammer and tap the bearing out. It comes out fairly easily but sometime it takes a bit more persuasion. Smiles, MH
Thanks. So, basically one locks the removal tool into the cup ID then use a drift to "tap" on the end of the tool from the other side of the hub, eh? I'd not thought of that. That's how I removed the cups I transferred but I did a lot of wham, wham from the other side of the hub, constantly moving the drift around the wee exposed edge of the cup to minimize the tendency to cock the cup in the hub ID. Those bearing cups are tough material. I just polished the cup ball tracks with 500 grit paper on the end of the Dremel. It's all I have.
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Old 04-17-21, 07:17 PM
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Prowler,
Good on you for the polishing with the 500 grit. i use a rubber bit that is infused with small diamond particles to do the polishing with my Dremel tool. I buy them for a hardware store in LaCrosse, WI called Golden Coullee you can find them on the web and search the site for Temo abrasive Dremel bits. I order the 8mm or 5/16" size. part number-723175192157. They work great with a bit of shaping on the end of the bit to match the race diameter. They will pretty much adapt to the shape of the race but I try to match the race so as not to put a bit of a mark on the race when starting to polish. Inexpensive too I think a bag of ten is about $10.00 so easy to think of as disposable after they wear out. Hope this helps in your repair experiences. Smiles, MH
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Old 04-18-21, 04:29 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Mad Honk
.... Inexpensive too I think a bag of ten is about $10.00 so easy to think of as disposable after they wear out. Hope this helps in your repair experiences. Smiles, MH
Thanks for the info. I'm always looking for interesting new problem solvers. I'm also helping a friend with his, somewhat booming, restoration business and will probably need this information.
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