brixxton

Hi, decided to strip the frame and then see if I have period gear for it. I am having a terrible time stripping it using Klean Strip and emery. It has one coat over the original. What could work better . This has to be the hardest I've come across, ergo it's probably an awesome paint job


Its a Bianchi does anyone have any idea of the model?
cx

merziac

I hate to tell you but this is a very lower model based on the stamped rear dropouts so you have signed on for a lot of work for little or no gain, supplies for this job will exceed the value imo.

That being said you're already all in so....

I would encourage you to strip all the parts to make this go better.

I did a Schwinn Paramount a few weeks ago, they have some of the toughest factory paint ever.

I used Rustoleum aircraft stripper and I start by scuffing with 100 grit sanding sponge to really tear through the paint to start but do not go all the way down to metal, then I slather on the stripper and get it out in the sun, wait awhile and slather again after it warms up, slather again and wait a few minutes then get after it with a big oldschool wooden handle wire brush, if the paint doesn't start to really come off, I just scrub it all down quick, slather again and let it sit in the sun.

It takes 3-4 days and a lot of elbow grease using many different wire brushes to get there but you still have a long way to go.

SwimmerMike 

I agree. Lots of paint stripper, scraping, metal brush, and time. I tried to rush the process on the Colnago I did last year. After a few rounds, I ended up coating and leaving the frame, then coming back the next day (this was in July and it was pretty hot). Letting the paint stripper work in the sun after there was a lot of scraping and openings in the paint worked like a charm.

merziac

You have to be ready to shift into high gear when the paint really starts lifting and down to granny when things aren't progressing, slather, slather again, hurry up and wait.

3alarmer 

.
...they make something called "aircraft stripper". It's pretty heavy duty and there's probably an increase in toxicity.

FWIW, on a bike like that, I would just stop, rinse off all the chemicals, sand the resulting surfaces to smooth out any rough spots or chips, and prime it with self etching primer. Then go from there.

merziac

The new toothless aircraft stripper is only about as good as the old regular paint stripper, by the time it soaks in and lifts the paint it has all but evaporated, vigorous scrubbing with the wire brush and the dried up paint goes in the garbage with very little fuss.

None of the over the counter strippers have the nasty Methylene Chloride in them anymore so the toxicity is way down across the board now.

Gary Fountain

Really, you can't beat burning the paint off the frame. I have always tried to use an oxy-acetylene torch with a heating tip. The paint burns off readily and a quick rub over with a wire brush and a little rub with some dry - wet and dry sanding paper and - bingo - you've got a completely raw frame. There is very, very little chance of applying too much heat to a certain area of the frame changing the metallurgical structure if you keep the flame moving and, who knows, you may just 'normalise' the frame. Melting the bronze or silver soldered bond of the lugs and tubes just doesn't happen unless you're really, really careless - if this happens, perhaps you may lack skills and shouldn't attempt a frame re-paint anyway, haha. I reckon about 30 to 45mins and the jobs done.

Yes, the frame gets hot (locally); it has to to burn the paint off but the steel never comes close to changing colour.

The real downside is the gasses released into the atmosphere.

........Oh yeah - the other problem could be access to an oxy-acetylene set.

nlerner

You might want to try removing the crankset.

T-Mar

I concur, this is an entry level model, at or very near the bottom of the line. The presence of top tube brake cable tunnels and gear cables running over the BB shell, in combination with an absence of bottle bosses, suggests early 1980s. It appears to be Japanese manufacture, in which case the serial number should allow us to determine the exact year and may allow us to narrow down the model(s). The seat post diameter may also provide a useful clue

brixxton

ES533292
thanks for all the advice, gonna wash it down with a rag and clean strip and asses my position.
To stubborn to give up but from what I'm hearing this is a lost cause.
Shame

T-Mar

That's slightly more modern than I thought. The serial number is indicative of a Japanese manufactured model from May 1985. My 1985 literature shows only two road bicycles with stamped dropouts requiring a claw mount rear derailleur, the Sport and the Strada. However, both are shown with down tube bottle bosses, which I'm not seeing on this frame.

merziac

Its all relative, its entirely likely that this is a fine riding frame, many were/are. If you beat yourself to death on the project and its not then....

The key is to make short work of it, let the stripper do it for you, that part takes patience, get those other parts off it to work on while you wait.

Warming or heating it up will help, I brought the one I did in the house one day after a couple days at the start, most of the paint was still on it.

Warmed it up then took it out in the sun, slather scrub and repeat, half the paint that was left came off during that cycle, stayed warm in the sun, repeat slather and scrub,

paint 99% gone, next day detail with small SS and brass tubing brushes, scotchbrite and picks, all done.

4 days total but only a couple of hours hands on each day.

John E

True -- even low-end Bianchis benefit from great frame geometry. My first road bike was a bottom-of-the-line 1962 Bianchi Corsa, and it rode and handled better than it had any right to.

SwimmerMike 

@brixxton I find doing this type of work rewarding. I just polished a rim that I got from CapnJohnny just because it needed it (I may use it in my Eroica set-up, I may not, but I can't have a tarnished wheel in the garage). I find the more of these types of projects I do, the more I learn and the better I get at it. You're far into this. I'd follow through with it. You'll get some experience with some new tricks and you may love the ride of the bike.

brixxton

getting there decided not to strip the whole thing. White undercoat with a really nice blue I found QC Enamel spray for only $4 a can at the local knock off shop

brixxton

the new wonder tool makes short work of layers!@

oneclick 

I find the sanding screens used for plasterboard very handy for prepping bike frames. They cut really fast, and you can do little spots with a corner of it under your thumb. They do wear out quickly, but for the saving in time and the quality of the job I think they are worth it. They leave a really nice surface for paint to stick to on bare metal, so stay away from any polished/chromed bits.

brixxton

thanks for all the help, would like to refinish the Carbon wheels any ideas?