better way to clean a chain
06-21-17, 11:30 PM
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 3,456
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 50 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
I'm really thinking to give it a try. Couple questions:
1. Most of the instructional videos have you clean the chain before dipping it in the wax, but I remember reading someone's write-up and it sounded like the cleaning step might be unnecessary--crud just falls off the chain and sinks to the bottom? Do you clean and wax or just drop the chain right in?
2. What do you use for the wax? Do you mix anything in? I remember one video where the guy used candles but then poured in something else (because the candle wax apparently gets too hard).
1. Most of the instructional videos have you clean the chain before dipping it in the wax, but I remember reading someone's write-up and it sounded like the cleaning step might be unnecessary--crud just falls off the chain and sinks to the bottom? Do you clean and wax or just drop the chain right in?
2. What do you use for the wax? Do you mix anything in? I remember one video where the guy used candles but then poured in something else (because the candle wax apparently gets too hard).
I did throw in a well used blackened chain once, and it worked fine, but without the preclean, I don't think there's quite enough paraffin in a small slow cooker to really get all the grit out in one shot. That said, it was still wayyyy cleaner and stayed cleaner than any lubed chain that wasn't new, so unless you want the best, it's likely fine to just throw your ugly black chain in the paraffin. (It will also turn the paraffin kind of black even if the big pieces settle.) Interestingly, the chain definitely got CLEANER after I rode it 50-100 miles - I suspect that the extra paraffin in the chainlinks helped extude the deeper black grit (the chain will shed tiny paraffin particles for the first 20-50 miles.)
Lots of folks mix stuff in and it probably improves it a little, but honestly, I'm getting perfectly good results with straight paraffin. I even bought paraffin oil as recommended by a youtube video, but I haven't even used it yet since I have no problems at all with paraffin. I heard about the hardness too, but I honestly haven't had any problems with too-hard paraffin.
SUPER clean. It's shockingly so if you're used to the blackening effects of a well used lubed chain.
06-21-17, 11:41 PM
#27
Occam's Rotor
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 7,248
Mentioned: 61 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2366 Post(s)
Liked 2,331 Times
in
1,164 Posts
Every 3 rides or so I have to remove the chain, take it to the basement laundry tub and scrub with a powerful degreaser like Zep Purple. I do this with a hand brush but it's slow, tedious and messy. Even soaking for a long time doesn't dislodge everything, it has to be brushed, and then the grit goes down the drain.
I think I want a gadget with a crank that pulls it around and around through some scrub brushes.
When it is time for a new chain, switch over to paraffin and your horror will be a thing of the past.
06-21-17, 11:53 PM
#28
Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 40
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Stop Cleaning Your Chain.
And start Waxing it!
You will be glad you did. No mechanical chain cleaning gadget is going to help with oiled chains - it's still a mess! Like you, I've been cleaning bike chains for 40+ years (altho, there were long stretches will little riding...). Since switching to wax, I get nervous shivers thinking about going back to that ugly, dirty, oily, greasy, grimy, mess of before!
Something that helps, regardless of chain lube or cleaning method, is to rotate two or three chains - one on the bike, one (or two) clean & ready to go. Plus, rotating chains can extend the life of the rest of your drivetrain.
Now, if you do decide to try wax, you will still need to clean your entire drivetrain thoroughly at least...
one...
last...
time!
After that, never. Some bits of wax will collect on the sides of the chain-rings, cassette cogs, and jockey wheels, but it's not the greasy gunk of before and doesn't hurt anything. It's just wax.
This, x 1000. Really. Yes, the wax will start to look dirty & black after a while, but it's wax, and doesn't "soak in" to whatever touches it like an oil lube.
I use Gulf Wax from the canning isle of the grocery store. It's about $3 for a one pound box. Candles wax will work too. I have a 1.5 qt crock (but a 1qt or smaller would work fine), and start with 1/2 lb of wax - enough to cover the chain. More wax just takes longer to heat up.
If starting with a previously oiled chain, first give it a good cleaning with brake cleaner, or kerosene, or what ever, and let dry.
If re-waxing a previously waxed chain, I do give it a quick wipe down, but you can just drop it right in. Grit etc will settle to the bottom.
In short, this is the re-wax process:
1) Plug in your crock pot/slow cooker with 1/2 lb of wax.
2) Drop chain in crock pot - no need to wait for wax to melt first, the chain needs to heat up too.
3) After chain has been in the *melted* wax for a few minutes, remove & place on a piece of cardboard & let cool. Don't let it cool completely, just cool enough to handle, or it gets stiff & each link will need to be worked loose.
Have something handy, like an old spoke bent to a hook, to fish the chain out of the hot wax.
The crock pot may take 30-60 minutes to heat up & melt the wax depending on size & how much wax. But you don't have to stand or sit by it - go do other stuff.
I degrease new chains, but I've read of others that don't.
After re-install, some wax bits will flake off the outer links for the the first few revolutions of the chain. So, if inside, you may want to have some newspaper or whatever under the chain to catch the wax bits.
If wet, dry the chain first, as water is denser than wax, so it will sink to the bottom. A little won't matter though, or even a lot really, as the wax on top will coat the chain as you pull it out.
To drain any potential water from the bottom, put a straw in the hot wax & let cool. Once cool, any water should be able to be drained out of thru the straw.
Now, as with most things cycling, the last word on how to really clean & lube a chain must go to Mr. Brown:
https://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html
You will be glad you did. No mechanical chain cleaning gadget is going to help with oiled chains - it's still a mess! Like you, I've been cleaning bike chains for 40+ years (altho, there were long stretches will little riding...). Since switching to wax, I get nervous shivers thinking about going back to that ugly, dirty, oily, greasy, grimy, mess of before!
Something that helps, regardless of chain lube or cleaning method, is to rotate two or three chains - one on the bike, one (or two) clean & ready to go. Plus, rotating chains can extend the life of the rest of your drivetrain.
Now, if you do decide to try wax, you will still need to clean your entire drivetrain thoroughly at least...
one...
last...
time!
After that, never. Some bits of wax will collect on the sides of the chain-rings, cassette cogs, and jockey wheels, but it's not the greasy gunk of before and doesn't hurt anything. It's just wax.
Supposedly, wax picks up less dirt in the first place.
I use Gulf Wax from the canning isle of the grocery store. It's about $3 for a one pound box. Candles wax will work too. I have a 1.5 qt crock (but a 1qt or smaller would work fine), and start with 1/2 lb of wax - enough to cover the chain. More wax just takes longer to heat up.
If starting with a previously oiled chain, first give it a good cleaning with brake cleaner, or kerosene, or what ever, and let dry.
If re-waxing a previously waxed chain, I do give it a quick wipe down, but you can just drop it right in. Grit etc will settle to the bottom.
In short, this is the re-wax process:
1) Plug in your crock pot/slow cooker with 1/2 lb of wax.
2) Drop chain in crock pot - no need to wait for wax to melt first, the chain needs to heat up too.
3) After chain has been in the *melted* wax for a few minutes, remove & place on a piece of cardboard & let cool. Don't let it cool completely, just cool enough to handle, or it gets stiff & each link will need to be worked loose.
Have something handy, like an old spoke bent to a hook, to fish the chain out of the hot wax.
The crock pot may take 30-60 minutes to heat up & melt the wax depending on size & how much wax. But you don't have to stand or sit by it - go do other stuff.
I degrease new chains, but I've read of others that don't.
After re-install, some wax bits will flake off the outer links for the the first few revolutions of the chain. So, if inside, you may want to have some newspaper or whatever under the chain to catch the wax bits.
If wet, dry the chain first, as water is denser than wax, so it will sink to the bottom. A little won't matter though, or even a lot really, as the wax on top will coat the chain as you pull it out.
To drain any potential water from the bottom, put a straw in the hot wax & let cool. Once cool, any water should be able to be drained out of thru the straw.
Now, as with most things cycling, the last word on how to really clean & lube a chain must go to Mr. Brown:
https://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html
Last edited by Self Evident; 06-22-17 at 12:10 AM. Reason: Minor spelling & grammar
06-22-17, 12:27 AM
#29
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
06-22-17, 10:00 AM
#31
Senior Member
To clarify - yes I've used the on-bike scrubbers many times. I'm looking for something similar that's designed for off-bike cleaning and works better for that purpose.
@Lazyass, with regard to "who cares", "what the big deal is" etc., I ride in the winter, I live in Minneapolis, and the garden hose is not an option in February. The on-bike cleaners put wet cr@ap on my shop floor. So like I said I clean the chain (and freewheel, and chainrings) in the laundry tub.
I've done the shake-in-a-jar thing and it doesn't get the job done. The issue is that in the winter I use more tenacious chain lubes that load up on dirt and don't just rinse off without some scrubbing.
@davidad, An ultrasonic cleaner is something I hadn't considered...
@Lazyass, with regard to "who cares", "what the big deal is" etc., I ride in the winter, I live in Minneapolis, and the garden hose is not an option in February. The on-bike cleaners put wet cr@ap on my shop floor. So like I said I clean the chain (and freewheel, and chainrings) in the laundry tub.
I've done the shake-in-a-jar thing and it doesn't get the job done. The issue is that in the winter I use more tenacious chain lubes that load up on dirt and don't just rinse off without some scrubbing.
@davidad, An ultrasonic cleaner is something I hadn't considered...
I only occasionally ride in bad weather, the advantage of being old and retired, but after using all of the methods for chain maintenance the ultrasonic cleaner is the best, period.
I started out using WD-40. Spraying it on then wiping off the excess. I then went to paraffin wax in a Fry Daddy. it didn't last more than 3 or 4 hundred miles and the chain still turned black and I had to rewax after riding in the rain.
I then starting cleaning the chain in a plastic Ragu jar in mineral spirits and lubing with dilute chainsaw bar oil. My chains began lasting over 4 to 5k miles.
About 7 years ago I tried an ultrasonic cleaner and my chains lasted over twice as many miles. 19000 on the touring bike with fenders and over 16,000 on my road bike without fenders.
I replace my chains a 1/16" wear.
06-22-17, 10:09 AM
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 3,456
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 50 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
I'm having a hard time believing that a paraffin dip-waxed chain will turn black after 300 miles. Granted, I'm not riding in rain and slop, but my chain has at least 200 miles on it right now, and it seriously looks cleaner than when I started (since all the extra paraffin flakes are all off the chain). It also leaves almost no chain tattoo when I grab it hard, so I suspect the rollers are pretty clean as well.
There's no way I could say that even with the cleanest of the clean lubes I've ever used at the 200 mile mark.
I have an ultrasonic cleaner for small parts that will fit a chain, and it does work extremely well for cleaning the pins - if I were using lube but wanted a super clean chain, that is def the route I would go, although it seems a bit pointless since the moment you relube and ride again, the lube will pick up plenty of blackening dust and debris on your very first ride.
There's no way I could say that even with the cleanest of the clean lubes I've ever used at the 200 mile mark.
I have an ultrasonic cleaner for small parts that will fit a chain, and it does work extremely well for cleaning the pins - if I were using lube but wanted a super clean chain, that is def the route I would go, although it seems a bit pointless since the moment you relube and ride again, the lube will pick up plenty of blackening dust and debris on your very first ride.
06-22-17, 10:26 AM
#33
tumbleweed
Johnsons Paste wax for the win. Wipe it on ,go ride, clean off the excess. Simply can not get any easier.
Reapply as needed.
Reapply as needed.
06-22-17, 10:34 AM
#34
Newbie
Thread Starter
I only occasionally ride in bad weather, the advantage of being old and retired, but after using all of the methods for chain maintenance the ultrasonic cleaner is the best, period.
I started out using WD-40. Spraying it on then wiping off the excess. I then went to paraffin wax in a Fry Daddy. it didn't last more than 3 or 4 hundred miles and the chain still turned black and I had to rewax after riding in the rain.
I then starting cleaning the chain in a plastic Ragu jar in mineral spirits and lubing with dilute chainsaw bar oil. My chains began lasting over 4 to 5k miles.
About 7 years ago I tried an ultrasonic cleaner and my chains lasted over twice as many miles. 19000 on the touring bike with fenders and over 16,000 on my road bike without fenders.
I replace my chains a 1/16" wear.
I started out using WD-40. Spraying it on then wiping off the excess. I then went to paraffin wax in a Fry Daddy. it didn't last more than 3 or 4 hundred miles and the chain still turned black and I had to rewax after riding in the rain.
I then starting cleaning the chain in a plastic Ragu jar in mineral spirits and lubing with dilute chainsaw bar oil. My chains began lasting over 4 to 5k miles.
About 7 years ago I tried an ultrasonic cleaner and my chains lasted over twice as many miles. 19000 on the touring bike with fenders and over 16,000 on my road bike without fenders.
I replace my chains a 1/16" wear.
06-22-17, 10:48 AM
#35
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Northwest Georgia
Posts: 14,779
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
Mentioned: 235 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6844 Post(s)
Liked 736 Times
in
469 Posts
I hope people who use water based degreasers don't pour the contaminated water down the drain.
-Tim-
-Tim-
06-22-17, 10:54 AM
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Llano Estacado
Posts: 3,702
Bikes: old clunker
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 684 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 105 Times
in
83 Posts
Effectiveness first, simplicity second.
Consider what you are cleaning. If it's salt and road dirt (ie: soil) something oily will not dissolve the salt and lets the particulate stick. And, you don't want the chain stewing in the grime. Something like a pressure washer or car wash with hot water and a little detergent will dissolve and mechanically flush the chain inside and out. (Contrary to popular opinion, less detergent is usually better and all detergents need agitation to actually lever the grime off.)
Then simply displace the water with a solvent or light oil which can be incorporated in the lube.
Consider what you are cleaning. If it's salt and road dirt (ie: soil) something oily will not dissolve the salt and lets the particulate stick. And, you don't want the chain stewing in the grime. Something like a pressure washer or car wash with hot water and a little detergent will dissolve and mechanically flush the chain inside and out. (Contrary to popular opinion, less detergent is usually better and all detergents need agitation to actually lever the grime off.)
Then simply displace the water with a solvent or light oil which can be incorporated in the lube.
06-22-17, 11:41 AM
#37
Senior Member
I'm having a hard time believing that a paraffin dip-waxed chain will turn black after 300 miles. Granted, I'm not riding in rain and slop, but my chain has at least 200 miles on it right now, and it seriously looks cleaner than when I started (since all the extra paraffin flakes are all off the chain). It also leaves almost no chain tattoo when I grab it hard, so I suspect the rollers are pretty clean as well.
There's no way I could say that even with the cleanest of the clean lubes I've ever used at the 200 mile mark.
I have an ultrasonic cleaner for small parts that will fit a chain, and it does work extremely well for cleaning the pins - if I were using lube but wanted a super clean chain, that is def the route I would go, although it seems a bit pointless since the moment you relube and ride again, the lube will pick up plenty of blackening dust and debris on your very first ride.
There's no way I could say that even with the cleanest of the clean lubes I've ever used at the 200 mile mark.
I have an ultrasonic cleaner for small parts that will fit a chain, and it does work extremely well for cleaning the pins - if I were using lube but wanted a super clean chain, that is def the route I would go, although it seems a bit pointless since the moment you relube and ride again, the lube will pick up plenty of blackening dust and debris on your very first ride.
06-22-17, 12:02 PM
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 3,456
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 50 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Yes, I know that's where some of the black comes from, but the extruded wax bits usually push it all out of the chain. It shouldn't be building up on the inside/outside of the chain with a properly waxed chain. (it def builds up on a lubed chain)
06-22-17, 01:19 PM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Posts: 29,552
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
Mentioned: 112 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5224 Post(s)
Liked 3,585 Times
in
2,344 Posts
was gonna clean some chains this coming Saturday on the family bikes in anticipation for our annual family trip but now I have to help replace the kids' car
06-22-17, 03:16 PM
#40
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Northwest Georgia
Posts: 14,779
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
Mentioned: 235 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6844 Post(s)
Liked 736 Times
in
469 Posts
This thread sure has some ingenious ways to do way more work than necessary while at the same time being as ineffective as possible.
06-22-17, 03:40 PM
#41
Jedi Master
Molten Wax has great instructions for cleaning a new chain, and bikeradar published the UltraFast Chain Lube recipe, which is 1lb of household paraffin wax, 5g of pure PTFE (Teflon) powder, and 1g of pure molybdenum disulfide (MoS2).
06-22-17, 04:16 PM
#43
Old Legs
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Mass.
Posts: 1,212
Bikes: '80 Strayvaigin, '84 Ciocc Aelle-Shimano 105, '90 Concorde Astore /Campy Triple ,85 Bridgestone 500/Suntour, 2005 Jamis Quest, 2017 Raleigh Merit 1, Raleigh Carbon Clubman
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 302 Post(s)
Liked 33 Times
in
22 Posts
06-23-17, 05:48 AM
#44
tumbleweed
That's the stuff. I got tired of the greasy chain and went to this on my f.g. I have not done the road bike yet but only anticipate good things.
I applied the wax right over a dirty chain, wiping it off a little first. It's smooth and quite.
I applied the wax right over a dirty chain, wiping it off a little first. It's smooth and quite.
06-23-17, 06:33 AM
#45
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,368
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6220 Post(s)
Liked 4,221 Times
in
2,367 Posts
I have the best way to clean the chain without any harsh chemical that is bad for the environment and cause cancer.
I clean it like cleaning a gun. Put down some newspaper under the chain. Take a small patch of cotton from old-tee shirt, stick it thru the space between two pins, and pull the cotton back and forth. Do it for each link. Do it for the outside of the link. In about 30 minutes, gets it super clean!!!
Why do you want to use harsh chemicals like WD40 that also displace the lube inside the link and give you cancer!!!
I clean it like cleaning a gun. Put down some newspaper under the chain. Take a small patch of cotton from old-tee shirt, stick it thru the space between two pins, and pull the cotton back and forth. Do it for each link. Do it for the outside of the link. In about 30 minutes, gets it super clean!!!
Why do you want to use harsh chemicals like WD40 that also displace the lube inside the link and give you cancer!!!
As to the "harshness" of chemicals in WD40, there is none. Nor do they "give you cancer". While I wouldn't do shots of mineral spirits (the solvent in WD40), it's not particularly dangerous. Ethanol...drinking alcohol...is more toxic and people drink a lot of that.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
06-23-17, 06:34 AM
#46
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,368
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6220 Post(s)
Liked 4,221 Times
in
2,367 Posts
On that we can certainly agree!
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
06-23-17, 07:45 AM
#47
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 342
Bikes: Trek FX 7.4 + Sirrus Expert Carbon X1
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 148 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I always run my chain thru the brush that Parktool makes. It seems to work well. I use that Green bio degreaser.
My chain got the link to take it off easily. Will it wear out if I keep doing it? I never done this.
My chain got the link to take it off easily. Will it wear out if I keep doing it? I never done this.
06-23-17, 08:22 AM
#48
The Fat Guy In The Back
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Sioux Falls, SD
Posts: 2,532
Bikes: '81 Panasonic Sport, '02 Giant Boulder SE, '08 Felt S32, '10 Diamondback Insight RS, '10 Windsor Clockwork, '15 Kestrel Evoke 3.0, '19 Salsa Mukluk
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 320 Post(s)
Liked 177 Times
in
115 Posts
That being said, I've removed this chain at least a dozen times and reused the same quick link with no problems. It does now come apart easier than it originally did, but still holds securely enough to do the job (chain is near end of life anyway.) I've never had an issue on any of my bikes by reusing the quick links. I'll keep using them until the chain wears out, then when I get a new chain it comes with a new quick link.
So I wouldn't worry too much about it.
__________________
Visit me at the Tundra Man Workshop
Visit me at the Tundra Man Workshop
Last edited by Tundra_Man; 06-23-17 at 08:40 AM.
06-23-17, 08:39 AM
#49
C*pt*i* Obvious
One thing that's worth doing, no matter how you clean your chain, is to wipe it off obsessively after relubing. If you can get it to feel nearly dry to the touch, it will pick up a lot less dirt when riding. A lot of people just keeping squirting more lube on top of the old mess, and that's what gets you that "black crawling horror." 
I've never had black crawling horror.
As Sheldon Brown says, "never oil a dirty chain".
I've got a small bottle of oil that will last years, 1 drop per link (or less) is all that is needed.
06-23-17, 09:43 AM
#50
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Northwest Georgia
Posts: 14,779
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
Mentioned: 235 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6844 Post(s)
Liked 736 Times
in
469 Posts
Sometimes you have to oil a dirty chain.
Chains get dirty very fast when riding gravel and sometimes on a long ride it simply goes dry on top of all the dirt, making all kinds of noise.
I carry a 1 oz eye dropper of lube on my gravel bike. It is common for gravel riders to do so.
-Tim-
Chains get dirty very fast when riding gravel and sometimes on a long ride it simply goes dry on top of all the dirt, making all kinds of noise.
I carry a 1 oz eye dropper of lube on my gravel bike. It is common for gravel riders to do so.
-Tim-