andrei_r

Are the videos accelerated?

coominya

No, they look normal to me. Way too fast for those tight corners on a shared bikeway though. Stupid riding.

lestat

Normal speed.

Yeah normal, but i think the camera just made it look too fast as it is in superwide mode? I only averaged about ~21km/hr that day I think?

andrei_r

Ok, must be the wide angle. It looks like you're flying. Nice videos btw, besides being on the wrong side of the road the whole time

lestat

Yeah. It's really awesome.

lestat

Haha, we're here in Aussie, so we're on the left hand side of the road. LOL..

coominya

Yes the Left side, which is the "right" side

Esthetic

Great vids!

andrei_r

Yeah, right!

lestat

Hey thanks.

Machoman121

i must also agree that it looked too fast to be normal - i thought it was speeded up.

Don't u guys use bar ends?

prj71

Bar ends dangerous off road. Catches trees.

lestat

Don't use bar ends but I won't mind if I get a good price for commuting. But maybe I'll prefer to put an aero bar or some kind of extension so rest my arms and be a little bit less dragging as I'm often on a headwind because of the direction and the time of my daily commute. I'm no sure if it would look good though. Lol

noob_rider

Are those Cascadia mudguards? I bought them and tried to install, but the metal loop for the front is too short. I see you've extended it with another piece of metal. Did that come with your mudguards or is that something you added? What is it exactly? I need to do the same...
Also, did you clip the mudguard spokes? On my bike they're too long and hitting the Toughroad's built in mudguard, but in your photo, you've got lots of clearance. I assume I'm going to have to trim them.

noob_rider

... also, when I tried, the rear mudguard doesn't hook onto the frame at the bottom bracket area. There's a little nub on the frame that should hook into the hole on the mudguard, but the front derailleur is too big and prevents the mudguard from reaching. Judging by your pic, I'm guessing you left it detached? Or did you find some way to hook it in?

lestat

Yes. I've cut a small piece of aluminium plate and drill for the boost so go to extend the mudguards closer to the tyres. I also trimmed the Mudguard spokes as it hits the bikes c-defender, but more so my shoes hit them whe I track stand.

With the rear, there is no attachment close to the front derailleurs, rather there is an attachment close to the upper part of the seat tube where the rear rack is attached. Ivan try to post a photo when I get home. If you place the front edge of the rear mudguard all the way to just under the chainstay, it shouldn't be an issue with the front derailleur as the mudguard will be pushed closer to the tyres by the chainstay's clearance.

Pacoloco1966

hi there. First time here. I had a Giant Seek 2 from 2012 and I now want a new bike...I went to my local Giant store in Toronto and they have a ToughRoad SLR2 2017 and also a Giant Seek 1 2016...for mostly commuting use, which bike would you recommend? The Seek1 comes with Schwalbe Big Apple tires and the ToughRoad SLR also comes with wide tires and I was told that it was newer "technology" etc..but which one would you guys recommend?
I hope this thread is still active...
thanks for your time

Bikeless in Toronto

E

ColonelSanders

Test ride each of them and see how you feel on them respectively.


The drivetrains on them are very different, as I believe the Seek 1 has an Alfine drive.

Pacoloco1966

thanks! The Seek 1 has the Alfine drive and I haven't tried it yet. I did try the ToughRoad and it felt ok..maybe a bit more upright than my older Seek 2 from 2012. I was told that the material etc of the ToughRoad SLR2 absorbs shocks better etc..but I can't say for sure..have you had the chance to ride them both? just wondering...I kind of like the wide tires for sure.
I also looked at the Trek Lync 5 which is an interesting concept but can't justify so much more money. Almost 2K CDN...too much for me.
I just want a comfortable, reliable bike for a reasonable price. Summer is almost here in Canada!
thanks!
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ColonelSanders

The carbon fork on the Toughroad should be more absorbent of vibrations than what I believe is an aluminium fork on the Seek.


With 50mm tyres on both bikes, perhaps there will be not much difference in how either soaks up the bumps.


As someone explained to me on these forums when I posed the question about whether higher grades of aluminium absorb vibrations better than lesser grades of aluminium, there is no difference there due to the respective grades.


What could make a difference is the respective frame designs, but I have no idea how they compare to each other in that regard.


I run the folding version of Schwalbe's Marathon Mondial tyres in 2" wide, as opposed to a wire bead version, and running my bike at 60psi in the front tyre and 70psi in the rear tyre, gives me what I consider to be a very comfortable ride.

lestat

If it is me and I only plan on using the bike for commuting, I would go for the Seek 1 2016 with internal gears. It's more simple and less maintenance. Just pickup and go.

In my case, I chose the Toughroad as I wanted to use a bike for a bit of everything. Also, the carbon fork is so comfortable on longer rides.

Pacoloco1966

thanks guys! I will go back to the store and try the Seek 1...I think the ToughRoad would be nice if I did some off the path riding more often but i really don't do any of that...
thanks for the help to everyone...
E

HerrKaLeun

Do you have experience converting the toughroad to tubeless? what system did you use? For a former bike I came up with the Schwalbe system but ultimately didn't go through (since I bought the toughroad instead investing in the old bike).

Does anyone have experience doing that and what tires did you use? I generally like the OEM tires it came with since they are a good compromise between rolling resistance and off-roadability.

I had a flat today and couldn't really patch it reliably on the road (at home it turned out there was another hole right next to the patch). So I installed my spare tube I had with me (prepared!!). Turned out the valve stem on that spare tube had a kink and I couldn't put that nut on. It held air and got me home. So bought 2 new tubes and replaced the one with the broken valve stem at home. Installed the brand-new tube, inflated to just under 60 psi (adjusted to 55 psi). Put the bike on the ground and after one minute "bang" the tube ruptured on a 10" long straight line (no seam). Must be manufacturing defect. So installed another tube that seems to work. Call me motivated to get rid of tubes.

HerrKaLeun

I didn't compare to aluminum fork, but I rode the toughroad on street construction sites and on bike paths with lot of frost heaving and groves from heaving. I also rode my 26" MTB with cheap front suspension fork and 2" tires. Both were about the same with going over rocks, holes etc. On the groves (90° to direction of gravel) the suspended fork was maybe 5% better, but only because I really paid attention. I was riding at 45 psi front. Not saying the toughroad is as good as a good suspension fork, but for daily use as good as a cheap suspension fork (without the weight penalty). The larger wheels also may play a role.

gsa103

I haven't converted the TR to tubeless. I'm not planning to since I don't put that many miles on it, and it wasn't worth the hassle.
I've used the Stan's conversion kit in my other mountain bike. Basically, you need to install new rim tape.

I would definitely get tubeless-ready tires. My mountain bike has a one TL-Easy tire and one "Performance" non-tubeless tire. The non-tubeless version is major pain. It requires much more sealant and if the pressure drops the beads un-seat.