topflightpro

Rubbing alcohol works for me. It provides enough lubrication to slide the grips on, but evaporates well, so it's not still slippery like dishsoap.

taras0000

Those are all methods for tight grips. For loose grips, the tub cement works well. If you put a small bead of it on the inside lip of the grip, it should get forced backwards as you slide it on, leaving no external mess. The hairspray one is also a good idea, as it sets up tacky and dry. 3M super 77 spray adhesive also works well if you can act fast enough.

taras0000

Either way (paint w/clear, or clear only), it's the clearcoat that will give you any problems if you have any. If you get any runs in the paint, you can always to to buff it down and get it smooth again. With clearcoat, this is tougher to fix.

The old adage of "two light coats are better than one heavier coat" is truest when dealing with clearcoats. Really pay attention to the application instructions. Some have varying degrees of "distance" that you can shoot from. Painting curved surfaces isn't that hard as long as you are consistently spraying at (relatively) perpendicular angles to the surface once you have laid down a base coat and allowed it to "tack". The base coat can be really light, and doesn't need to have full coverage (80-90% is good). It allows the droplets of subsequent coats something to grab and bond to. You alter the weight of a coat by how fast your pass over the object is (if you're rattlecanning it). Make sure that your passes go well past the object as you're sweeping side to side. It's at the end of a pass where people tend to slow down in anticipation of going back, and end up with runs because the paint goes on too thick. Edges/corners are the hardest parts to paint. so be careful at the edges. Again, going light, many times is what helps here.

Use some corks with eye hooks in the ends of the bars to suspend the bars. Suspend from both sides, as you don't want something spinning in a manner that isn't allowing you to coat evenly. 3-4 LIGHT coats should do it.

carleton

Awesome. Thanks!

I'll let you know how it goes.

Baby Puke

Actually, they are just tight enough that I had to use more than just an inside bead on the grip, I had to have some on the bar to provide some lube, and that made a big mess. Just in the grip was not enough to keep it sliding. Can anyone confirm that hairspray works with Yoshida Champ grips? These things are a PITA!

taras0000

Hairspray and air compressor. Spray inside of grips and bar, then burp them on with a compressor if they don't just slide one. Soap and water clean up.

Baby Puke

Great, thank you Taras!

brawlo

Hairspray has worked for me on 3 sets of PRO & 3T bars with the 3mm champs. Getting the Soyo grips on my BT barsbars was a different thing. Had to really soak those!

Franklin27

Hey, guys! I am interested in buying this aluminium Argon 18 track frame (I think 2011 model).

Does anyone have any experience with that? Any problem/difficulty to report?

Thanks in advance.

1incpa

For what it's worth, that looks a lot like the Bianchi frame. I think they're calling it the Super Pista these days. I had the previous version, the Pista Concept, and it was a good frame. The main complaint on my version was with the seatpost clamp, but I never had a problem. I don't have any experience with the new version.
I say, if it fits and the price is right, go for it!
PI

Franklin27

Actually, its seat tube is very similar, but I think the headtube juction is different.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/11...g?v=1468554010

I have seen the seatpost clamp and it is single-bolted. I am not quite heavy (73 kg) but tilting and slinding seatpost are a nigthmare, overall in very tight bankings.

Thanks for replying and for the info.

Godsight

Personally I would recommend that version of the Argon 18 Electron frame over the newer version. The old one has the round (guessing 27.2mm) seatpost and dosen't have the 3D headset gimmick of more recent Argon 18 frame.

The 3D headset cap require a special tool to tighten/remove it.

pierrej

Training a bit more nowadays and am after a computer to track workouts.
Knowing nothing about computers as I don't even use one on my roady, is there anything that will track speed/cadence and keep a file that isn't a full on Garmin XYZ. I've found the wahoo blue sc which should do both, but I don't know if it keeps a file and would prefer not to have my phone with me on track.

Any information/opinions appreciated

ruudlaff

I know you said not garmin... but for just speed/cadence the Edge 25 is a relatively cheap outlay (especially second hand)

Baby Puke

Basic speedo plus Carleton's track calculator app works well for me. ~$35 for a Cateye Micro, and Carleton what is the damage for your app?

carleton

$1.99

pierrej, as for a head unit, my favorite now is the SRM PowerControl 7 (even if you don't have power meter cranks).

It's a little pricey, but you get all of your data and it records every 0.5".

Here's a good thread on the subject of bike computers in general: https://www.bikeforums.net/track-cyc...computers.html

topflightpro

I have an Argon road bike, and I think the 3D headset is pretty nice system for getting the bike fit to you. As for the special tool, it comes with each frame. I think I have two of them.

Franklin27

I am interested in the aluminium frame. Interestingly the newest version of the aluminium Argon 18 track frame doesn's features the 3D headset gimmick. I think is only limited to the carbon frame.

Newer alux frame (no 3D headset and not very trustable aero seatpost):

https://racycles.azureedge.net/asset...ctron_16_1.jpg

Carbon frame (3D headset):

https://bikesandbeyond.ca/images/libr...frame_12_z.jpg

Thanks for the reply!

Franklin27

This 3D headset system seems very interesting. Too many spacers in the top of the headset produce a lack of stiffness on the stem and handlebar during sprints. Regretfully is not featured on the 2011 model (or any alux model at all).

Thanks for the reply, man!

pierrej

I'll grab that app whenever I pick something up. Do you happen to know if a PC5 would function in a similar manner to the 7?

Quick look around has resulted in a Cannondale road pm and pc5 for only a little more than a bare pc7. Having a compatible Cannondale roady does make it a tempting proposition if I can just swap the head unit between bikes when needed.

Cheers for the info regardless

carleton

PC5 is wired. So you have wired speed sensor and cadence comes from a wire going to the power meter crankset. The only upside to PC5 setup is that it doesn't suffer the 3s wakeup period that wireless units need to start recording. So, if you are doing standing start work, you'll miss that using a wireless head unit. But, since this is a road unit, then that doesn't matter.

PC7 is ANT+ wireless and works like any other ANT+ cycling computer. You get: speed, cadence, HR, altitude, distance, and/or power all in a file that you can analyze in SRM software or most popular tools (like Strava, Golden Cheetah).

Unless you know what you are getting into with the PC5, I would advise you to pass on it. It's basically old gear using old tech. If it were free, cool. But, don't spend good money on someone else's old tech. That guy is simply gonna take your money and buy a PC7 or PC8

pierrej

Seems reason enough to avoid it, cheers. I'll look around for a 7 and see what turns up

topflightpro

I've been told by many that the wired SRM stuff works fine, BUT, it is old and the wires do wear out. They are not cheap to replace.

fixedmystic

does anyone know where I could find a used or new track pro 2009 seat clamp? thanks -aiden

southernfox

Thoughts on Assioma Duo's for track racing?

https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2017/09/...th-review.html