Rim, Mechanical Disc, Hydraulic Disc, LOCKUP!
07-24-20, 03:11 AM
#51
Senior Member
That's true, (modern) mountain bikes have proprtionally longer top tubes out of all bike types, as they are designed for use with short stems. The low standover height of modern MTB frames helps too.
07-24-20, 05:10 AM
#52
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Maybe I should get this instead of a Mountain Bike, for now?
From Trek: "'Flat Foot Technology' allows you to optimize the effort of pedaling with proper leg extension due to our unique frame geometry and lower center of gravity."
From Trek: "'Flat Foot Technology' allows you to optimize the effort of pedaling with proper leg extension due to our unique frame geometry and lower center of gravity."
07-24-20, 08:08 AM
#53
Dirty Heathen
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: MC-778, 6250 fsw
Posts: 2,182
Bikes: 1997 Cannondale, 1976 Bridgestone, 1998 SoftRide, 1989 Klein, 1989 Black Lightning #0033
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 889 Post(s)
Liked 906 Times
in
534 Posts
Appreciate the suggestion. It's funny cause I actually did purchased a bike two months ago, blindly. Which was a bad move, but luckily the LBS took it back for a full refund.
I bought the Specialized Roll for the upright seating position and their "Ground Control Positioning" that makes it easy to put a foot down when stopped. However, my knees were in my chest with the low saddle height, and I literally could not pedal the bike. So I raised the saddle so I could extend my knees better, then I ran into another problem: I could not touch the ground while on the saddle and had to straddle the top tube when coming to a stop – which did not work at all. I was squashed in the cockpit. I'm not sure how many people know this, but there is MUCH LESS ROOM between the front on the saddle and the stem on a Comfort Bike. The REACH on the Roll is 352mm. I think girthy people are better off with a Mountain Bike. For example, the Kona Lana'i has a 440mm REACH – which I'm assuming will give me a bit more room when I come to a stop and straddle the top tube.
I bought the Specialized Roll for the upright seating position and their "Ground Control Positioning" that makes it easy to put a foot down when stopped. However, my knees were in my chest with the low saddle height, and I literally could not pedal the bike. So I raised the saddle so I could extend my knees better, then I ran into another problem: I could not touch the ground while on the saddle and had to straddle the top tube when coming to a stop – which did not work at all. I was squashed in the cockpit. I'm not sure how many people know this, but there is MUCH LESS ROOM between the front on the saddle and the stem on a Comfort Bike. The REACH on the Roll is 352mm. I think girthy people are better off with a Mountain Bike. For example, the Kona Lana'i has a 440mm REACH – which I'm assuming will give me a bit more room when I come to a stop and straddle the top tube.
I think you would be better off with something like a Townie.
Given your height and weight, you're a little outside the typical ergonomic envelope most bikes are designed around, so 'just any' bike may not work for you. It's also kind of tough right now, because very few shops are 'open' for trying out bikes before you buy one.
07-24-20, 09:39 AM
#54
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Napa Valley, CA
Posts: 908
Bikes: Wife says I have too many :-)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 327 Post(s)
Liked 250 Times
in
158 Posts
It was mentioned to let off on the front brake when the rear wheel starts to lift up when braking. Good plan ! I wanted to add to that. You should practice applying the rear brakes first followed by the front brakes. With most of the emphasis on the rear brakes. I have gotten into the habit of doing this. I have had one endo on my mountain bike and that was enought for me 
07-24-20, 10:37 AM
#55
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Very few bikes are designed so that you can put you foot down, without getting off the saddle. This is a concern that is voiced by a lot of new riders, but the truth is that you set up a bike for when you're riding it, not when you're stopped. Cubewheels' rather unorthodox advice aside, your legs work better when they can extend properly. Saddle-to-crank distance is what determines that. The overall height of the saddle is determined by the saddle-to-crank distance, and the height of the cranks from the ground. Bikes that are designed to be ridden in a 'sporting manner' whether road or MTB have the cranks set sufficiently high to provide good clearance for cornering or clearing obstacles. If the cranks are too low, you can hit your pedals on the ground in a turn. This is why you only see the low, crank-forward design on 'Casual' cruiser bikes like the Electra Townie.
I think you would be better off with something like a Townie.
Given your height and weight, you're a little outside the typical ergonomic envelope most bikes are designed around, so 'just any' bike may not work for you. It's also kind of tough right now, because very few shops are 'open' for trying out bikes before you buy one.
I think you would be better off with something like a Townie.
Given your height and weight, you're a little outside the typical ergonomic envelope most bikes are designed around, so 'just any' bike may not work for you. It's also kind of tough right now, because very few shops are 'open' for trying out bikes before you buy one.
07-24-20, 11:16 AM
#56
Expired Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 11,522
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3660 Post(s)
Liked 5,407 Times
in
2,746 Posts
If that's the "Fat Guy," IIRC he was proven to be a con artist and didn't ever actually ride a bike any significant distance.
