Stumpym4

Hi, cheers for the advise, had a few bikes from merlin so no worries there it will be re torqued straight out the box .... Foot overlap could be an issue, ive had it before on short top tube frames and its something you get used to after its thrown you off a few times !
Currently ride an arkose , which are great for money and quite long in the top tube which i like , i just fancy something a bit nicer etc, ive also looking at maybe building a mason Bokeh , which gets rave reviews ... decision decisions ??
yep the bikes a steal for the spec, just concerned the manufacturer isn't the best when it comes to back up , although merlin are usually very good
Oh and trust me you are probably lighter than me, im short and chubby .... where you based in the uk ?

taz777

I’m in London. You’re right about manufacturer backup so that needs to be taken into consideration. For me the Prosecco is just a leisure bike so it’s not treated harshly and I was happy to accept little or no manufacturer backup. As you mention, Merlin themselves are okay when an issue arises. In fact, I’ve had to return a new bike to them a year or two ago that had a defect and it was sorted out very quickly.

One other thing I’ve noticed on the EX-Gravel is that the inner tubes leak a lot of air compared to the ones on my other bikes. The inner tubes on mine are Kenda ones. I’ve got some 60mm valve Scwalbe ones to try out soon.

taz777

I got round to changing the inner tubes on the EX-Gravel this morning. The stock Kenda ones had valves that weren't long enough for my pump to get a decent purchase on the valve stem. New Schwalbe tubes have 60mm valves. Not great looking with more valve stem sticking out of the wheel, but a lot more practical.

One thing I also noticed was that I could easily remove and refit the Hutchinson Overide tyres from the wheels with my hands so no tyre levers were required. This would make puncture repairs a bit easier whilst out on a ride.

Stumpym4

Was still waiting for merlin to get back to me about the damage on the decals, checked this morning and the last ones been sold .. kinda gutted now !! ...off to look at new other gravel bikes !!! .... enjoy the Blue , it is lovely

Wilmingtech

Getting closer to a sub 20lb / 9kg gravel bike. Got a good deal on a pair of HED Ardennes GP wheels weighing in at 1680g with tubeless rim tape. I took the time to weigh them against the stock wheels that came in at 2100g without the tires, tubes and disc brakes.

I am also learning there is a need for off road shoes vs road bike shoes as you get into the dirt and gravel and have to put your feet down. Picked up a pair of m8000 for that. Now Ill need to find me a decent pair of spd shoes.

I am also starting to see the allure of a 1x system although I highly doubt Ill go that way on this bike.

With the new wheelset, carbon seat post and superflow slr seat eating up most of the slack weight, Im down to 9.2kg or just a little over 20lbs on this bike.

Im thinking maybe a carbon handlebar to break the barrier. I dont think Ill go tubeless but I might give it a try without the sealant and see if I can get air to hold. That might save the weight of 2 tubes. Other than that, not sure where I can take out a whole lot of weight.

These wheels will roll better and I am hoping to see a little bit of improvement on this bike in the climbs. Havent had a chance to ride it since I got the wheels swapped out on Saturday. Weather is starting to get wet and cold here.

Still loving this bike. Its growing on me.

taz777

^ Kind of between tubes and tubeless, I’m trying out latex inner tubes. More maintenance in terms of more regular pumping up, a bit more expensive than butyl tubes, take slightly longer to fit, but a nicer ride and quite a bit lighter than regular butyl tubes. Might get you a step closer to 9KG without going tubeless.

taz777

I had my first decent longish ride on the new latex tubes this morning. It's these ones (top set):



I bought them from Sigma Sports:

https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Cha...e-29-38mm/BXZP

A definite improvement in ride quality - smoother, more refined. I'm going to get a couple more. The only downside is that you'll have to pump up your tyres every ride as latex tubes leak air. These work great with the 38mm Hutchinson Overide tyres on the EX-Gravel.

And with the lower sun late in the year, I found my new Oakley Field Jacket Clear glasses helped during the ride when I was facing the sun as the photochromic lenses adapted quite nicely. The added bonus of eye protection meant that I enjoyed the ride more.



Available at a good discount from Wiggle:

Wiggle | Oakley Field Jacket Clear Black | Sunglasses

taz777

Is anyone using clipless pedals on their Prosecco?

I just fitted a pair of Shimano XTR M9000 Race SPD pedals and did a couple of 'round the block' test rides and found that the short top tube is causing the front tyre to rub against the front of my SPD shoes.

I've adjusted the the cleats on my shoes as best as I can and at normal riding speeds there's no issue. It's only when turning sharply at extremely slow speeds that the issue arises.

tangerineowl

Assuming you have one of the larger sizes, that 72degree head angle wouldn't be helping.

Rather than moving your cleats off their ideal position for your feet, perhaps consider an angled headset from someone like Works Components (UK).
You could calculate for example what a 1degree option would add out front. 71degree is still in a good front end range for the bike.

Chi_Z

FYI, for carbon frame always clamp the seatpost and not the toptube

Chi_Z

Still plenty of places to save weight, those hy/rd are heavy, get the new 4 piston Juin Tech GT-F 150g saved for the pair, Easton EC90 SL crankset 80g saved. You always need an second set of wheel, build one up with DT 350, CX-ray and 300g shallow carbon rim. should come out about 1300g

Marcus_Ti

Toe overlap is a thing. It happens, moreso depending on the exact geometry in play.

Ask any frame builder--they can eliminate toe overlap, but it requires other compromises in geometry, and generally it just isn't worth it for everything else you give up to lose the overlap.

tangerineowl

Would the 4-piston design be more powerful than their R1?

I'm happy with the old R1, but might be interested later on.

taz777

Yes, thinking about it now, it makes sense. I'll reset the cleats to where I had them before and just live with the rare toe overlap.

Chi_Z

Totally happy with my F1 too, don't really need more stopping power, but more pistons are always better also more updated pad mount

taz777

A couple of updates to my Prosecco. I've got bar-end mirrors that came in useful twice on my ride today. I've also finally gone clipless with Shimano M9000 XTR SPD pedals. I'm using the 'beginner' SH-56 cleats on their loosest setting to begin with.





The pedals work great after a couple of days of fine tuning with saddle height, angle and just getting used to them.

Wilmingtech

Taz - Seach the forum for "Toe Overlap Calculator" there is a good one built into a spreadsheet on that thread.

Im on a medium bike Ive got overlap issues as well. It stems primarily from the overall wheelbase and head tube angle. Typical is less than 100cm wheelbase you might have some toe overlap.

its really only an issue when Im turning aroun180 degrees on the road. Ive learned to keep my outside foot on the down stroke when turning. Its not a problem most of the time.

-Sean

I should clarify here... 100cm on 700c wheels. You might be able to fix with a set of 650b wheels if the tires on them dont make up for the difference. Not sure 650bs would do well on this bikes smaller frame. Would be great to see some pics if someone has them on theirs.

Wilmingtech

Id never clamp a carbon bike. I would never hang it from the middle of the top tube either. It just rests on the top tube close to the seat tube.

-Sean

Wilmingtech

Those XTR M series pedals are great. Ive got the M8000s and they are really easy to get into and out of. Much easier than the road pedals.

I just need to find me a good pair of "walkable" bike shoes now to use on them. Currently Ive got road shoes with adapters. Works for a ride but a PIA to walk in.

-Sean

taz777

Cheers mate. I didn't encounter the issue once on my ride today. As you mentioned, it's a matter of foot positioning so that the foot opposite to the turning side is not close to the front wheel. I think I'll get used to it eventually.

Being vertically challenged, I have a small framed bike so that loses me an inch or two horizontally I guess, and makes the front wheel slightly closer to the pedals.

taz777

The XTR pedals have completely banished my clipless phobia! Years ago I went full-on SPD-SL and had a slow motion fall on a High Street just after I'd had my then road bike serviced at a Specialized store! It was literally in front of dozens of people and many were rather amused.

Since then I've avoided clipless pedals as I've just been too scared to try them again.

I took to the XTR pedals straight away and they are fantastic. Riding did seem to be a bit easier with them.

I bought all my clipless gear last year but have only just got round to fitting it.

As for shoes, I got a pair of Fizik X5 Terra Suede Shoe 2018 model:

Wilmingtech

Old TRP rotors -


New Rotors with Color-


Saved about 12- 14 grams.

Will see how these hold up.

taz777

^ Those look really nice. I've got an itch that needs scratching now! I wonder if they do an orange version to with the orange accents on my Prosecco?

Wilmingtech

I think the only orange ones Ive seen are from Hope. Found here on Amazon

Ive also seen orange colored bolts for the rotor.

The Hope ones are $60usd each though. Way more than the $12 each I paid for these

-Sean

Wilmingtech

Well its official. The Blue Prosecco is a one of a kind collectors item now. No where to be found and never made again. Curious where they all ended up.

Had to post some pics of recent rides over the summer...