24-speed to 7-speed
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24-speed to 7-speed
so recently i found myself climbing up a hill and getting confused with the gears making the pedaling heavier and causing me to do the walk of shame
to combat this ive decided to switch my bike over from a 24 speed to a 7 speed with grip shift. Im like 80% i wont be able to mess something as easy as grip shifting up
ive been having trouble finding a crankset though. Im not to sure what im looking for.
so my question to you guys is. If i were getting a 12-32t cassette, what kind of single speed crankset would be best in that situation?
parts ive purchased for the change:
Shimano 7-speed CS-HG200-7 (12-32)
Shimano Altus Mountain Bike Rear Derailleur - Direct Mount - RDM310
Shimano 7-speed right twist shifter
No chain yet
all for a giant cypress lx (2005)
to combat this ive decided to switch my bike over from a 24 speed to a 7 speed with grip shift. Im like 80% i wont be able to mess something as easy as grip shifting up
ive been having trouble finding a crankset though. Im not to sure what im looking for.
so my question to you guys is. If i were getting a 12-32t cassette, what kind of single speed crankset would be best in that situation?
parts ive purchased for the change:
Shimano 7-speed CS-HG200-7 (12-32)
Shimano Altus Mountain Bike Rear Derailleur - Direct Mount - RDM310
Shimano 7-speed right twist shifter
No chain yet
all for a giant cypress lx (2005)
Last edited by BigBoi; 07-29-19 at 10:34 PM.
#2
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Use this - both to enter your current gearing and to "experiment" with the new gearing different front chainring sizes:
https://www.gear-calculator.com
It will show you comparable data, so you can decide for yourself.
Though I'd say practise shifting - it becomes 2nd nature for most people. Don't think 1x7 compared to 3x8 has much benefits, especially if you ride hills as well.
My 2c on pros and cons of 1x systems:
https://bike.bikegremlin.com/6075/pr...psets-systems/
https://www.gear-calculator.com
It will show you comparable data, so you can decide for yourself.
Though I'd say practise shifting - it becomes 2nd nature for most people. Don't think 1x7 compared to 3x8 has much benefits, especially if you ride hills as well.
My 2c on pros and cons of 1x systems:
https://bike.bikegremlin.com/6075/pr...psets-systems/
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Thanks for your input and that helpful site
and i Guess youre right, maybe ill just switch to grip shifting and keep the 24 gears
and i Guess youre right, maybe ill just switch to grip shifting and keep the 24 gears
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I'd have stuck with 8speed also.
Shimano 7sp grip shifters are pretty bad.
Sram Attack 8sp Gripshifts are among the best.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SRAM-attack...4383.l4275.c10
I have trigger on the left and gripshift on the right of my MTB and like that setup.
Shimano 7sp grip shifters are pretty bad.
Sram Attack 8sp Gripshifts are among the best.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SRAM-attack...4383.l4275.c10
I have trigger on the left and gripshift on the right of my MTB and like that setup.
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I also ride hills and have grip shifters which I like just fine. One thing I had to learn was how not to accidentally shift while gripping the bar on a hard climb because --> aww **** --> Walk of Shame.
I wrapped some extra thick padding around each of the grip ends which feels nice and also gives a nice little divider between the gripping part and the shifting part so my hands always know where they are without looking.
I also agree, depending on which 8 gears and which 7 gears you're talking about, you might well be better off with 8 gears in back. Just shift to the small chainring in front as you start uphill and don't touch the front shifter during the climb.
I wrapped some extra thick padding around each of the grip ends which feels nice and also gives a nice little divider between the gripping part and the shifting part so my hands always know where they are without looking.
I also agree, depending on which 8 gears and which 7 gears you're talking about, you might well be better off with 8 gears in back. Just shift to the small chainring in front as you start uphill and don't touch the front shifter during the climb.
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I would have gone 8sp, but since you already have the parts....
Are the chainrings on your current cranks separate and removable, or all riveted together? If they are removable you could just remove two of them (the inner and outer). After that, there are a few options under $50 for chain retention if that becomes an issue.
Or just do like you say and leave the front rings and see if the switch to gripshift helps. I am a little doubtful it will, you still need to learn and remember which way to twist it.
Are the chainrings on your current cranks separate and removable, or all riveted together? If they are removable you could just remove two of them (the inner and outer). After that, there are a few options under $50 for chain retention if that becomes an issue.
Or just do like you say and leave the front rings and see if the switch to gripshift helps. I am a little doubtful it will, you still need to learn and remember which way to twist it.
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I have that trouble if I run short gripshift grips, so i use full length grips, maybe cut off 1/4".
Likes For LesterOfPuppets:
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It's an art, but "anticipation shifting" is what I call myself doing. Example: as I approach the small downhill to a parking lot, I shift to fd/rd 2/7 for the push. As I approach the steep hill on the other end, I sequentially shift 2/4 then 1/4, 1/1 as I meet the steep climb (yeah, I'm "old" and have the rest of my commute to go).... This gets me up the hill. Likewise, on my commute home, I know that a long downhill portion will culminate in a stop sign, probable long wait, and that I will be charging the next hill to the stop sign. At the beginning of the downhill, I am in 2/6, which is a good starting gear combo for me and what I will use in the first part of the climb.
I am not even a semi-pro-ish rider, but this works for me....
I am not even a semi-pro-ish rider, but this works for me....
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The "Walk of Shame" is unnecessary. Just turn around and go back down the hill, choose the right gear and ride up with pride.
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When I got the bike with the grip shifters I had no idea how they worked. I had to make up mnemonics to keep it straight. It's mostly instinctive/habitual now, but if I go a month without much riding I can still get confused, maybe because each side works in a different direction.
Right-Rear:
Up and away (like a beautiful balloon)
Back down to the ground
Left-Front:
Pull up! (like the audible warning in a cockpit)
Push down (the airplane opposite of pulling up)
Right-Rear:
Up and away (like a beautiful balloon)
Back down to the ground
Left-Front:
Pull up! (like the audible warning in a cockpit)
Push down (the airplane opposite of pulling up)
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To echo some other posters, just practice shifting for a while. Best to do it away from traffic and away from big hills, with short laps on mildly rolling pavement.
Think of it this way: big ring = overdrive (down hills, pushing hard on level ground); middle ring = most riding (level ground, mild climbs); small ring = tougher climbs.
Gears on the rear: fine-tuning, to enable you to maintain roughly the same effort and pedal speed into wind and on rolling terrain.
Finally, here are the five stages I go through whenever I try to learn something new:
I'm confused.
I'm starting to get it.
I've got it.
I'm confident.
I'm so confident, I'm bored.
(Note: stage five is crucial.)
Think of it this way: big ring = overdrive (down hills, pushing hard on level ground); middle ring = most riding (level ground, mild climbs); small ring = tougher climbs.
Gears on the rear: fine-tuning, to enable you to maintain roughly the same effort and pedal speed into wind and on rolling terrain.
Finally, here are the five stages I go through whenever I try to learn something new:
I'm confused.
I'm starting to get it.
I've got it.
I'm confident.
I'm so confident, I'm bored.
(Note: stage five is crucial.)
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When I got the bike with the grip shifters I had no idea how they worked. I had to make up mnemonics to keep it straight. It's mostly instinctive/habitual now, but if I go a month without much riding I can still get confused, maybe because each side works in a different direction.
Right-Rear:
Up and away (like a beautiful balloon)
Back down to the ground
Right-Rear:
Up and away (like a beautiful balloon)
Back down to the ground
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I think I'd like that better. It seems a lot more natural to me as I think about it. I wonder why, since I've never driven a motorcycle. Now I'm going to have to think of other things I've used with a twist-controlled throttle.
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Ok I am going to be that guy..... This is not a mechanical issue this is a skill issue. IMHO OP is is ahead keeping this current setup and learning how to use it.
The current 24 speed set up will give a better range and lower (easier) gearing for getting up hills
just practice on the flats, a lot as as noted, anticipate and shift earlier and spin rather than waiting to shift while mashing
try this and then return the parts
The current 24 speed set up will give a better range and lower (easier) gearing for getting up hills
just practice on the flats, a lot as as noted, anticipate and shift earlier and spin rather than waiting to shift while mashing
try this and then return the parts
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(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
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I’ll second the rapid rise option. If you don’t ride frequently enough to train your brain, the rapid rise is a little easier because both sides turn in the same direction to get to a lower or higher gear.
On the other hand riding your bike more is less expensive than a new derailleur.
On the other hand riding your bike more is less expensive than a new derailleur.
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so recently i found myself climbing up a hill and getting confused with the gears making the pedaling heavier and causing me to do the walk of shame
to combat this ive decided to switch my bike over from a 24 speed to a 7 speed with grip shift. Im like 80% i wont be able to mess something as easy as grip shifting up
ive been having trouble finding a crankset though. Im not to sure what im looking for.
so my question to you guys is. If i were getting a 12-32t cassette, what kind of single speed crankset would be best in that situation?
parts ive purchased for the change:
Shimano 7-speed CS-HG200-7 (12-32)
Shimano Altus Mountain Bike Rear Derailleur - Direct Mount - RDM310
Shimano 7-speed right twist shifter
No chain yet
all for a giant cypress lx (2005)
to combat this ive decided to switch my bike over from a 24 speed to a 7 speed with grip shift. Im like 80% i wont be able to mess something as easy as grip shifting up
ive been having trouble finding a crankset though. Im not to sure what im looking for.
so my question to you guys is. If i were getting a 12-32t cassette, what kind of single speed crankset would be best in that situation?
parts ive purchased for the change:
Shimano 7-speed CS-HG200-7 (12-32)
Shimano Altus Mountain Bike Rear Derailleur - Direct Mount - RDM310
Shimano 7-speed right twist shifter
No chain yet
all for a giant cypress lx (2005)