Soft and dry Brooks seat
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Soft and dry Brooks seat
I purchased a Raleigh Super Course with what appears to be the original seat.
Seat was both dry and soft (supple). If I pushed it with a finger the leather would flex. I had always thought that Brooks seats were somewhat stiff. I applied some proofide because the bike had sat for at least 15 years. I used two coats and perhaps that was a little heavy.
My questions:
1) Can I/should I stain or dye a scuff to the leather top? The scuff probably just looks bad but again, just want to be sure it's not something I shouldn't miss?
2) Should I coat the underside or just leave as is? The rust under there is very light, was going to try to buff it out.
3) I have not touched the tensioner screw. The seat does sag downwards slightly when I push lightly on it with a finger. I haven't ridden yet because I want be sure that it is normal for that sag to be there and am concerned that I might tear the leather or stretch it.
Dry leather scuff on right rear top side
Do I put "anything" under the seat to preserve it??
Seat now. scuff still shows, can I do anything for it (dye?)?
Seat was both dry and soft (supple). If I pushed it with a finger the leather would flex. I had always thought that Brooks seats were somewhat stiff. I applied some proofide because the bike had sat for at least 15 years. I used two coats and perhaps that was a little heavy.
My questions:
1) Can I/should I stain or dye a scuff to the leather top? The scuff probably just looks bad but again, just want to be sure it's not something I shouldn't miss?
2) Should I coat the underside or just leave as is? The rust under there is very light, was going to try to buff it out.
3) I have not touched the tensioner screw. The seat does sag downwards slightly when I push lightly on it with a finger. I haven't ridden yet because I want be sure that it is normal for that sag to be there and am concerned that I might tear the leather or stretch it.
Dry leather scuff on right rear top side
Do I put "anything" under the seat to preserve it??
Seat now. scuff still shows, can I do anything for it (dye?)?
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Cuttle bone is a gentle way to go at scuffs.
Underside will absorb much more emollient than top.
Dye comes out on clothing.
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Cuttle bone is a gentle way to go at scuffs.
Underside will absorb much more emollient than top.
Dye comes out on clothing.
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Sorry - never heard of Cuttle bone (what is it, where do I get it?)
Also do you mean I should I put proofide on the underside? I have since found a Youtube video showing someone that, just want to be sure. Lastly I have added a photo showing bolt position which is fully forward. Should I tighten it a turn? I dabbed on PB Blaster on threads incase I have to loosen it because it has sat for so long....
Also do you mean I should I put proofide on the underside? I have since found a Youtube video showing someone that, just want to be sure. Lastly I have added a photo showing bolt position which is fully forward. Should I tighten it a turn? I dabbed on PB Blaster on threads incase I have to loosen it because it has sat for so long....
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Cuttle bone comes from cuttle fish: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuttlefish
It is sold through the pet trade for pet birds to use to groom their beaks.
If your local grocery has a pet section they may have it on display.
Bolt/nut in this position because it is the way the come from the factory.
Evidently previous owner never touched it.
If saddle soft it could probably be taken up a bit to preserve tension; you do not want to stretch the top, just take up any looseness.
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Cuttle bone comes from cuttle fish: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuttlefish
It is sold through the pet trade for pet birds to use to groom their beaks.
If your local grocery has a pet section they may have it on display.
Bolt/nut in this position because it is the way the come from the factory.
Evidently previous owner never touched it.
If saddle soft it could probably be taken up a bit to preserve tension; you do not want to stretch the top, just take up any looseness.
-----
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Thread moved to C&V.
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If the appearance of the scuff bothers, a Sharpie, brown crayon, small bit of black shoe polish would disguise it. I just ride mine as is. You're not wearing white right? You've already applied Proofide so I would take it for a ride. It may be perfectly comfortable as is and could be why it has never been tensioned any further.
Whether you do the bottom is up to you, but you might find it nigh impossible to get into the furthest nooks and crannies without drowning your saddle in the stuff.
What I want to know is what year Raliegh you have. I believe older saddles don't have date stamps on their cantles and I have an old cantle with the same saddle bag eyelets as yours and don't know what years these were used.
Whether you do the bottom is up to you, but you might find it nigh impossible to get into the furthest nooks and crannies without drowning your saddle in the stuff.
What I want to know is what year Raliegh you have. I believe older saddles don't have date stamps on their cantles and I have an old cantle with the same saddle bag eyelets as yours and don't know what years these were used.
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bertinjim ran serial through and so appears a 1974
WC 4000864 W = Worksop built G = May 4 = 1974 000864 = production sequence number
WC 4000864 W = Worksop built G = May 4 = 1974 000864 = production sequence number
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I have had good results using a Kiwi product "Scuff Coat" to restore the surface of old leather saddles. Don
edit: Misremembered, it's called "Scuff Cover", black & brown work well, haven't tried the white. Here's a link
https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-8529-Scu...ff+cover+brown
edit: Misremembered, it's called "Scuff Cover", black & brown work well, haven't tried the white. Here's a link
https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-8529-Scu...ff+cover+brown
Last edited by ollo_ollo; 06-10-18 at 06:02 PM. Reason: add link
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I should add that the only markings I found beyond the name plate were the letters WAJ stamped on the underside with dye.
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I think you’re saddle looks great as is! The scuffs on it should go well with a bike the age of yours. I have a 1975 Raleigh International that I bought used and it came with a Brooks B17 narrow saddle on it. Unbeknownst to me, someone used shoe polish on it and it all came off on my pants. It all came out in the wash (I didn’t think it would). Still, I’m not sure how I’ll get the rest of the shoe polish off of the saddle as I’m not prepared to risk another pair of pants. I love this saddle but I can’t use it. I wish the saddle scuffs had just been left alone. Just my experience.
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The underside of the cantle appears to be stamped "MADE IN ENGLAND." Sometimes there is a date in this area as well.
The underside of the top also has the marking K A G[?].
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#12
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If you want to get a smooth effect where that scuff is, lightly dampen down that small area, let the moisture absorb into the fibres for a few minutes and then work the area to a smooth surface.
Rub the dampened fibres vigorously and the fibres will pack down smooth. Finish with a light rub of Proofide over that small area.
I use a bookbinding 'bone', but the back of a spoon would be adequate for that spot.
Do a search on 'leather slicking' or 'leather burnishing' and you will see the technique.
And update this thread with your results.
Rub the dampened fibres vigorously and the fibres will pack down smooth. Finish with a light rub of Proofide over that small area.
I use a bookbinding 'bone', but the back of a spoon would be adequate for that spot.
Do a search on 'leather slicking' or 'leather burnishing' and you will see the technique.
And update this thread with your results.
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Brooks makes Proofide to restore/ condition the underside . Directions say not to use it on top side. Great results but a bit pricey . I've had success with Lexol leather conditioner as well . Lexol is cheaper and Wal-Mart carries it . As mentioned, Kiwi works well on scuffs.
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Brooks makes Proofide to restore/ condition the underside . Directions say not to use it on top side. Great results but a bit pricey . I've had success with Lexol leather conditioner as well . Lexol is cheaper and Wal-Mart carries it . As mentioned, Kiwi works well on scuffs.
HOW DO I DETERMINE WHETHER I HAVE THE CORRECT LEVEL OF TENSION IN MY BROOKS SADDLE?
Your saddle tension should have been correctly set by Brooks during manufacture. This tension should be good for the first six months that you own the saddle.
Brooks recommend that you inspect your saddle after every six months; there are two guidelines to help you decide whether, or not, to add more tension: -
The aim is to maintain a fairly flat profile on the leather, when viewed from the side, just like when it was new.
To increase the tension, you should turn the Tension Pin nut so that it moves towards the rear of the saddle (when viewed from the front of the saddle, this will be a clockwise turn on the spanner). This will retighten the leather and ‘’pull up’’ any sagging.
Normally just between ¼ and one complete spanner rotation should be sufficient to correct the tension issue. You need also to wary of over-tensioning*; Imagine that the leather is like the hamstring of a professional athlete; adding too much tension in any one adjustment period will pull, and may even tear, the inner fibres of the leather.
(*This is especially prevalent on saddles that use the Allen Key adjuster.)
Never adjust a wet saddle .
HOW OFTEN SHOULD I APPLY PROOFIDE TO MY BROOKS SADDLE?
The primary function of Brooks Proofide is to nourish the leather to keep it supple and to prevent it from drying out with age. With this in mind, it is generally not necessary to apply Proofide to a new saddle. Instead, it is recommended to apply it after every 6 months.
Proofide should be applied sparingly to the upper surface of the leather using just enough to cover the entire upper surface area. This should then be left on the leather for several hours (perhaps overnight) in order to allow penetration through into the inner fibres, before buffing off thoroughly with a soft cloth.
Some Brooks saddle owners use Proofide for two further purposes:
a/ If the saddle is giving excessive discomfort after some time of use, then Proofide will soften the leather and hence encourage it to break-in more readily
b/ If riding regularly over wet surfaces (especially if you bicycle does not have mudguards), then a coating of Proofide applied and left onto the underside of the leather will offer some moisture shielding to the leather
HOWEVER , in both of these two cases, it is very important to be mindful of the irreversible damage that can result from excessive application of Proofide. There is a risk that the leather will over soften and then no longer be able to support the rider’s weight.
Proofide is a tried and trusted product, the ingredients of which are all know to Brooks. This is the only dressing, therefore, that we can endorse for use on a Brooks leather product. The use of any other product is frowned upon and will also jeopardize your warranty rights.
Your saddle tension should have been correctly set by Brooks during manufacture. This tension should be good for the first six months that you own the saddle.
Brooks recommend that you inspect your saddle after every six months; there are two guidelines to help you decide whether, or not, to add more tension: -
The aim is to maintain a fairly flat profile on the leather, when viewed from the side, just like when it was new.
To increase the tension, you should turn the Tension Pin nut so that it moves towards the rear of the saddle (when viewed from the front of the saddle, this will be a clockwise turn on the spanner). This will retighten the leather and ‘’pull up’’ any sagging.
Normally just between ¼ and one complete spanner rotation should be sufficient to correct the tension issue. You need also to wary of over-tensioning*; Imagine that the leather is like the hamstring of a professional athlete; adding too much tension in any one adjustment period will pull, and may even tear, the inner fibres of the leather.
(*This is especially prevalent on saddles that use the Allen Key adjuster.)
Never adjust a wet saddle .
HOW OFTEN SHOULD I APPLY PROOFIDE TO MY BROOKS SADDLE?
The primary function of Brooks Proofide is to nourish the leather to keep it supple and to prevent it from drying out with age. With this in mind, it is generally not necessary to apply Proofide to a new saddle. Instead, it is recommended to apply it after every 6 months.
Proofide should be applied sparingly to the upper surface of the leather using just enough to cover the entire upper surface area. This should then be left on the leather for several hours (perhaps overnight) in order to allow penetration through into the inner fibres, before buffing off thoroughly with a soft cloth.
Some Brooks saddle owners use Proofide for two further purposes:
a/ If the saddle is giving excessive discomfort after some time of use, then Proofide will soften the leather and hence encourage it to break-in more readily
b/ If riding regularly over wet surfaces (especially if you bicycle does not have mudguards), then a coating of Proofide applied and left onto the underside of the leather will offer some moisture shielding to the leather
HOWEVER , in both of these two cases, it is very important to be mindful of the irreversible damage that can result from excessive application of Proofide. There is a risk that the leather will over soften and then no longer be able to support the rider’s weight.
Proofide is a tried and trusted product, the ingredients of which are all know to Brooks. This is the only dressing, therefore, that we can endorse for use on a Brooks leather product. The use of any other product is frowned upon and will also jeopardize your warranty rights.
Last edited by Big Block; 06-10-18 at 03:35 PM.
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Riding the saddle will burnish it nicely; especially if you ride in cotton pants. Apart from a little Proofide, don't really need to go for goops and colors.
If it feels soft and saggy, I would definitely give the tension screw a few turns. Unless you like it soft and saggy; some people do.
If it feels soft and saggy, I would definitely give the tension screw a few turns. Unless you like it soft and saggy; some people do.
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Big block
I will be seeing bertinjim tomorrow morning and getting a 2nd opinion before I go a step further. In the past my enthusiasms have cost me dearly so trying to think before I jump...
I will be seeing bertinjim tomorrow morning and getting a 2nd opinion before I go a step further. In the past my enthusiasms have cost me dearly so trying to think before I jump...
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Juvela - You were right KAG Not WAJ (not sure where that came from)
Big Block - I showed the seat to bertinjim who felt that while bolt could be turned to add tension but I should just ride it.
The small cracks to the seat appear to just be on the surface but will watch carefully. I applied PB Blaster to rag them rubbed the seat bolt so hopefully nut will move easily.
Will give it a whirl and report back
Big Block - I showed the seat to bertinjim who felt that while bolt could be turned to add tension but I should just ride it.
The small cracks to the seat appear to just be on the surface but will watch carefully. I applied PB Blaster to rag them rubbed the seat bolt so hopefully nut will move easily.
Will give it a whirl and report back
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I think you’re saddle looks great as is! The scuffs on it should go well with a bike the age of yours. I have a 1975 Raleigh International that I bought used and it came with a Brooks B17 narrow saddle on it. Unbeknownst to me, someone used shoe polish on it and it all came off on my pants. It all came out in the wash (I didn’t think it would). Still, I’m not sure how I’ll get the rest of the shoe polish off of the saddle as I’m not prepared to risk another pair of pants. I love this saddle but I can’t use it. I wish the saddle scuffs had just been left alone. Just my experience.
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Unless you like it soft and saggy; some people do.
How 'bout lacin' the skirts?! It's easy, and it looks sooo hot!
Use a sharpie to mark the four (or more) holes, a little drill bit, lace from a dress shoe, and pull it real tight like I know you want it!
.
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Riding the saddle will burnish it nicely; especially if you ride in cotton pants. Apart from a little Proofide, don't really need to go for goops and colors.
If it feels soft and saggy, I would definitely give the tension screw a few turns. Unless you like it soft and saggy; some people do.
If it feels soft and saggy, I would definitely give the tension screw a few turns. Unless you like it soft and saggy; some people do.