kip.duff

No. Any BB that assembles the way you described is categorized as a two-piece BB. The BBInfinite BB for BBright/SRAM DUB that I am dealing with is a single alloy tube (with both ball bearings installed) that is pressed in starting from the left and bottoming out on its flange when it is pressed all the way home. The Wheels Mfg. BB that I am considering is two-piece and the same as yours- and many other BB designs.

guadzilla

Ah ok, I guess i have my terminology wrong.... ignore what I wrote then

kip.duff

Anyone have advice/knowledge on torque specs for caliper bolts that go thru chainstay for disc caliper? This is troubling to me because there is no sleeve in the bolt holes to resist compression- open/void in chainstay.. I think some of you have R3s with disc. Were your bolt holes like mine? Hollow?

A mechanic at Excel Sports said 6Nm. Wanted to get some more input.

Well, also looked at Sram specs- also said 5 - 7Nm. However, the design in the example they showed was very different. The rear caliper mounting point in the example is like the front fork: aluminum threaded inserts in the chainstay. Apparently, these bolts are not too tight- sounds like this is the right spec..

melikebikey35

I've always done 5Nm and have never had an issue...it doesn't take much torque to keep them in place.

kip.duff

Cool!!!

kip.duff

It's finished. Went for 30 mile ride. Haven't been riding in about 5 years. Really beat myself up- am still recovering.

Wheels Mfg. BB
Eggbeater 3 pedals
SRAM Red eTap 12-speed AXS 1X HYD group
SRAM Red AXS crankset with 42 tooth chainring
10 - 28 rear cassette
Fizik Antares saddle
3T ARX Team alloy stem ($50, new off eBay)
​​​​​​FSA Energy Wing compact alloy handlebar 42cm 288 gr, new eBay, $50
Lizard Skin 2.8mm bar tape
Roval CL50 disc wheelset
Conti GP5000TL 28c tubeless tires

The tires were easily installed with some Schwalbe Easy Fit mounting soap and an old Performance Bike plastic tire lever. The quantity of sealant recommended (60ml per wheel) amounts to ¼ pound total, so I thought I would try without sealant. Seems to be holding fine with stock Roval rim tape. My first tubeless setup, so I'm not sure yet if I'm losing anything by not running sealant. Running at 55-60 psi.

Did all assembly myself other than Shimano disc adapters installed on the Rovals by LBS- not quite true on front axle- rubbing a bit.

Bled the brakes with the Sram Pro Brake Bleed kit.

Used inexpensive 3T stem because consensus is that carbon stems are not a good idea. 10cm, 6 degree, 126 gr. I think this is all I could ask for in a road stem, and will probably stay on the bike.

I will probably get a carbon handlebar at some point to save weight. At this point, I'm aiming for something like to FSA I have on there now.

Haven't weighed it yet- chicken. I'm afraid the disc choice has pushed the weight up.

I'm using Mavic mountain bike shoes.



Kip's Cervelo R3 54 cm

WhyFi

You're losing flat protection, which is the primary reason that most run tubeless.

phrantic09

It can’t be that heavy, my pure stock 56cm is 16.2 with pedals in the non-disc version

kip.duff

I think I heard that disc option adds a lot of weight. But I don't remember the amount. Will try to find the info again. 1X set up will help offset.

InvertedMP 

Add sealant for sure.

NoWhammies

What was your thought process in going with a 1x up front? Just curious. Thanks.

kip.duff

Several.

1) I'm not much of a rider- nice bikes more of a hobby. I'm 72 and have no business going over 30mph- although I think this bike would be good at it!
2) I LOVE the simplicity, lack of clutter, extra stuff, yada yada... Front derailleurs literally look like very unneeded and annoying bells-and-whistles to me- I achieved great satisfaction in excluding it.
3) Weight savings.
4) Money savings NOT a factor.

sfrider 

As the tires age they will likely start leaking around the bead and rim if you don't add sealant. Been there, done that. The good news is you can still ride flatted tubeless tires and make it home. It might take all day since you'll be riding slow, but you'll get there eventually. Have done that, too. They actually rode surprisingly well. (This was Mavic Yksium UST or whatever they call them, on my errand bike that hadn't been touched in 3-4 months due to Covid. Not GP5000TL.)

kip.duff

Are some sealants better than others?

How many ml did you use?

WhyFi

Yes. Orange Seal (regular) has done very well for me and has a pretty good reputation at road tire pressures. Others, like Stan's, seem to work better at the lower pressures seen with mountain bikes and don't generally fare well at road pressures.

I usually use ~45-50ml.

Keep in mind that you need to check it occasionally - it can dry out, be used up, get diluted from water intrusion, etc. If you're putting in a lot of miles or if punctures are fairly common for you, once per month might not be a bad idea. If you're not riding a ton and/or punctures aren't terribly common, you could go 8 weeks or more between checks. The main thing is that you don't want to ride around thinking everything is hunky dory and then get a flat because your sealant needed to be topped off three weeks prior.

InvertedMP 

Interesting how you routed the rear brake line, I might have to do that when I do brake lines next time.

sfrider 

I use Orange (endurance), despite the Mavics coming with their own. It has worked extremely well around town, with lots of nasty crap in the bike lanes here.

I use 1.5 oz for all my tires, which comes to just around 45 ml (per tire). A KOM syringe makes it quick and neat to check and top off. No need for the tire to come off or any of that.

kip.duff

"Motorcycle" configuration- right lever for front brake- left lever for rear.

kip.duff

Thanks.

jrobe

Nice bike. I have put almost 100,000 miles on two Cervelo R3's. I haven't found a reason to try another bike.