RockiesDad

Newbie here with a "new to me" 2011 Specialized Tricross from CL. Pretty decent bike that is just my size at 49cm. But the only thing is that the fork has been replaced with a Kona P2 steely. I've read that there was a recall with the original carbon fork and for whatever reason the original owner did not get a carbon replacement but this P2 fork. Anyway, I don't care for it (handling and weight wise) and wanted to change it out for maybe a carbon one. Plus it's not very pretty...

My question is would I feel a difference if I do swap it out and will one of these fit? I think if I can get one for $200 then I would still be ahead vs getting a brand new bike. Here are my choices:

Carbon CX Elite - Carver Bikes

Amazon.com : Ritchey Comp Cross Fork with Eyelets, Carbon, 1-1/8-Inch : Bike Forks : Sports & Outdoors

Easton EC90 x Carbon Fork 700c 1 1 8" Cyclocross 45mm Rake CNT Matte New in Box | eBay

Winwood Dusty Carbon Cross Fork Canti Only 1 1 8 inch Aluminum Steerer Brand New | eBay

https://www.amazon.com/Nashbar-Carbon...BT8B3D7WAHEZ45

The Carver is my first choice. My guess is that the P2 is a little over 1000gm.

Is it worth it? Will not be racing or anything punishing to me or the bike.

TIA...

Andy_K 

According to the Specialized website, the fork that came with that bike had 49mm of rake, which is pretty uncommon in after-market forks. They don't say what the fork length was, which I just find annoying. What this means, generally, is that it's hard to say how any of those forks will affect your handling.

One thing to watch out for with carbon forks and cantilever brakes is that forks which don't allow the brake hanger to be mounted from the fork crown are often prone the brake shudder. This is not universal, but pretty close to it. Some forks are worse than others in this regard. If you'll be using V-brakes, it isn't an issue.

Don't forget to factor installation into your cost if you don't intend to do it yourself. With a new fork this generally involves cutting the steerer, moving the lower headset race from the old fork to the new, installing a star nut or (if full carbon) compression plug, moving the brakes from the old fork to the new and adjusting the headset after assembly. Don't be surprised if your LBS wants to charge you around $50 to do all this with a fork you buy online.

flargle

That Carver fork doesn't have a hole to mount a cable hanger.

Take a look at Whisky Parts. Their stuff is great.

RockiesDad

I did notice this fact and was thinking more about it. I bet the fork P2 fork rake is 45mm and maybe that's why it handles a little more squirrely. Humm... replacing it would not change anything because of the geometry. Let me think about this a bit more. I did find a steel fork with 50mm rake for $70. Same weight ~1000gm. Maybe I should try that...

There is a bracket that mounts to the headset/stem that holds the cable hanger. Not the best design but one that came on the bike.

jfowler85

Expensive as well.

Andy_K 

More rake translates to less trail, so the switch to a 45mm rake fork should have made it less squirrely.


If you get a fork that is drilled for a fork mounted cable hanger you can ditch the hanger that sits above the stem and replace it with a spacer. You aren't stuck with that.

flargle

I would call it realistically priced. There is plenty of stuff out there that costs less, certainly.

fietsbob

yea , consider the steering Trail data as before 49 offset will be different than 40 , will you notice? I dont know.
fork length changes , change the head tube angle too .

RockiesDad

Update... Called my LBS and they mentioned that I could get a "new-old stock" factory carbon fork for about $250 from Specialized. So my original question is will this make a difference with handling, comfort, etc (lighter weight and back to stock geometry) and is it worth my $250? It does look better too so maybe that is worth it???

What would you do?

Andy_K 

I'd probably buy the new-old fork. I really like my frame and fork to match.

If you're confident that the bike fits they way you'd like it to, and you think you're going to want to keep it for a while, then I think it's not a bad deal. On the other hand, if you're hoping that this is the magic tweak that will turn a bike you're not happy with into a bike you like, you're probably better off cutting the bike loose instead. I've spent a lot of money on upgrades trying to make a bike that I sort of like into a bike that I really like and it almost never works out.

Saddle Up

I have one of the replacement forks for your bike. Steer tube uncut, 49 mm off set. PM me if you are interested.

RockiesDad

Very wise counsel. Thank you very much for you insight!

This bike is still fairly new to me and I'm only about 80% sure that I am happy with it so far. I wish it was a bit quicker, acceleration wise. Thinking about it a bit more, I don't think changing the fork would help or would it? It will definitely look better with the new fork..

I'll ride it a bit more to figure out what if I want to keep it or not. I think I can get back what I paid for it so no big deal there.

BTW, seems you really like Kona Jakes? How are they comfort wise? Are they more on the hardcore CX end of the spectrum vs adventure bikes?

RockiesDad

Thanks for the offer. Not allowed to PM. Sent email instead.

Thanks

Andy_K 

Yeah, I suppose I must look like a bit of a Kona fanboi.

Kona has always been pretty dedicated to CX racing, but at the same time they've had support for rack and fenders on the Jake and Jake the Snake models (and even on the Major Jake some years) so they know the bikes have other uses. For the 2016 models there is a visible split starting where the carbon Jake the Snake and the Major Jake have more aggressive geometry and the Jake, aluminum Jake the Snake and Private Jake have geometry that's closer to a gravel bike but still CX race ready. In past years, all of the bikes were more or less in the race ready but gravel capable camp.

I think they're very comfortable bikes. I used to use my 2008 Jake for 100-mile rides. I still would use any of my Jakes for that except that I've since acquired a couple of dedicated road bikes. I use my 2013 Jake for every day commuting. It's not as relaxed as something like my Long Haul Trucker (which practically forces you to relax and just enjoy the ride) but another way of saying that is that the Jake feels sportier. I like the handlebars a little higher than they are on the stock build, but I've been able to fix that with a 20 degree stem.

Until 2011, I think, the base level Jake came with a steel fork (the same one you have). Since 2011 the base level Jake has had an aluminum fork. I generally think wide tires make this a non-issue, but I have to admit that I did replace the fork on my 2013 Jake with a carbon fork, so some part of my brain must think that was necessary. The second-tier Jake the Snake has come with a carbon fork since 2007. It has generally been the sweet spot of the Kona Jake line for everyone but hardcore CX racers.

One final issue if you're comparing Jakes to gravel bikes is tire clearance. It's my understanding that the 2016 Jakes have clearance for 40mm tires, which is pretty good but still narrower than most gravel bikes. From 2011 to 2015 their tire clearance max'd out at about 35mm. Prior to 2011 it was a bit wider, probably 38. This has never really bothered me because 35's make for a pretty comfortable ride, but there are a lot of nice gravel tires starting to appear in the 40+ range.