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Advice for new for-fun, non-high-end build

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Old 12-02-11, 11:59 AM
  #1  
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Advice for new for-fun, non-high-end build

I finally found a cheap, for-fun winter project. The goal was a bike very different from my current solo bikes. (Hey, it's only two, what can I say? A 59cm '72 UO8 set up as a road bike/commuter, and a 59cm '73 Raleigh Gran Sport, 531 db main tubes and fork, a great day-rider.)

The new project is a late 80's lugged steel Bianchi Brava, 58cm. It's not especially light but has some nice features not on my other bikes , e.g. integrated RD hanger, two bottle-cage mounts, HT pump peg, braze-on DT shift bosses, recessed brake mounts, TT cable guides, braze-on BB cable guides. It also has much tighter geometry, 1" shorter chainstays, a full 2" shorter wheelbase than the GS. 26.6mm seat post, supposedly 1.370x24 BB threads (68mm shell width), 126mm rear spacing. I guess that it had 700c wheel originally but have not yet see confirmation of that. A 27" wheel seems like a tight fit.

I'm trying to find the right balance between cost and performance. (Bear in mind that I'd be willing to do a 50mile day on my highly-upgraded UO8 if the GS wasn't available.) If it works out as I hope it will be another quick day-rider, and I wouldn't want to compromise that possibility with seriously underwhelming parts. But I don't want to spend big bucks dressing up a pig either if it is going to ride llike a truck.

The biggest decision is wheels. I was hoping to build up some 32-spoke wheels, maybe Mavic OpenSports and 2.0-1.8-2.0mm spokes, but that's going to run into money for hubs, spokes, rims, skewers. Harris (and others) have machine-built 36-spoke wheels with Quando hubs, 2.0mm spokes, and Weinmann LP18 rims. They are cheap, and I can true them just fine. But it would still be straight-gauge spokes. The Quando hubs seem okay performers but I wonder about those rims. I'd go with used wheels or hubs if I could find some. I have other options too but we'll ignore them for now.

Similar questions are re derailleurs and brakes, but less expensive. For example, I recently obtained a set of 1st get Cyclone derailleurs for the GS. Perhaps I should just put them on the Brava instead.

Any thought, especially re the wheels? Thanks!
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Old 12-02-11, 01:00 PM
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I would buy a set of used wheels because it will cost less. As for components shimano 105 or 600 are a good value.
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Old 12-02-11, 01:04 PM
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Jim, Looks like an opportunity to build a little hot rod. I wouldn't worry about the LP18 rims and here's a set you may like better https://www.bicyclewheels.com/merchan...egory_Code=RWO . These probably have 130 mm rear spacing, which isn't a problem since you're measuring 126 mm.

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Old 12-02-11, 01:17 PM
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Maybe find a likely bike of similar vintage on CL and pull the parts. The leftover frame can then recieve whatever old maybe heavier parts that you have on hand and be sold on to someone who can use it. (sell a bike like this on the cheap to keep good bike karma going...)

I did this with a Shogun in order to get some good 100/126 hubbed wheels for my Panasonic. Haven't sold the Shogun, since the frame would be pretty cool for bike polo, which I've wanted to try.
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Old 12-02-11, 01:25 PM
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Pretty silver wheels from VeloOrange. They should have the right hubs too.

I also suggest at least trying a good set of upright bars (either the classic albatross nitto bar or some bent straight bar from Velo Orange depending on how fast you want to go) and either thumb shifters or barends. A totally different ride and if you don't have a bike set up with bars like that, you should!

I find them to be comfortable and almost as fast as drops in most situations (I'm thinking of the Albatross)
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Old 12-02-11, 01:38 PM
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I guess BianchiGirl would be the person to shed light on a Brava, but from the pics of some, they appear to be Columbus-tubed, and far from anything I'd deem a 'pig'. Even if this one is Taiwanese-made, it should be a sporting ride. Seems your goal is to keep the cost from spiraling. As such, projects must be patiently assembled. I'd skip any of the new wheels. Doesn't sound like you'd be satisfied with the higher cost and lower-end components. Not along the theme of your project. Hunt down a set of used wheels for cheap. Just need patience. Freehubs are the better choice. 700C, not 27"...nothing OEM came out with 27" that late in the 80s.
IMHO, focus your efforts on wheels and tires if the project's ride characteristics are not to be compromised. This makes or breaks the handling and enjoyment of any bike.
Are you planning to stay 126 or update to 130? (7 or 8/9/10?). Friction DT or indexed bar-ends or brifters?

Tektro DP brakes are fine products and can be had for cheap if you search. A lot of them were OEMed to other brands and the NOS stock has been clearanced out for $15-40/set...Cannondale, Scott, Cane Creek, etc.

As for drivetrain, that can take any direction. Cyclones are great, but IMO, don't limit yourself when you have an opportunity to try out something different.
The Bianchi could turn out to be the equivalent of the weekend ragtop sportster. A garage toy that comes out for some 'fun'.
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Old 12-02-11, 01:38 PM
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If you build it too nice, it becomes "more."
Try to get the parts by happenstance, you'd be surprised what you find when you're not looking hard.
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Old 12-02-11, 01:54 PM
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I'm one of those guys who will put top end stuff on a bottom end bike simply because Its so easy to move over to a different (possibly better) bike whenever you want. Its not like if you put really nice components on this bike you'll be ruining the components.

I think the idea of building a sweet wheelset is a great idea. You can move those wheels wherever you like if you get tired of them on this Bianchi. Plus, wheels and tires make a huge difference in ride quality....no reason not to roll around on good stuff. I'd just as soon reach for Mavic Open Sport are a good choice.... I wouldn't hesitate to spend a few more bux on the Open Pros or on some Velocity Aeroheats or Synergys. I've considered building a wheelset with those Quando hubs but everytime I do I gravitate back to Mavic 501's or Suzue Classica or even vintage Sunshine cartridge bearing hubs....call me a brand ***** perhaps.

or hey while you're in the wheelbuilding mood how about doing it up as a go-fast IGH bike? I think quick bikes with IGH's are tre' cool.
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Old 12-02-11, 02:02 PM
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Please don't use Quando hubs. The bearings are little more than tightly rolled tinfoil, and the races are poorly finished, soft-as-hell junk. Buy a used wheelset with something decent for hubs and use those. Please.
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Old 12-02-11, 02:15 PM
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Bicylewheelwarehouse.com has some good deals. I have a set of Open Pros and Ultegra hubs that are still as true as the day I received them. (Over 2K miles of commuting and crappy back roads)
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Old 12-02-11, 02:27 PM
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I have a basement full of wheels (really I don't want to say the number, but it is way more then a reasonable person should own), and I am not too far away.
If you don't care about matching wheels I might be able to help out. Also have spokes and hubs, some for cheap.
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Old 12-02-11, 02:33 PM
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Interesting replies. Some thoughts in response:

Re the Quando hubs, they have standard cartridge bearings and the mechanic at Harris whom I trust tells me one can easily replace them. But soft flanges are another matter. I've seen the VeloOrange and Suzue Classica hubs (on the WWW, not in person) and they look nice. But the cost goes waaaay up because the hubs and rims are expensive and it means paying for 64 (or 72) spokes. I considered that I could move them to a different bike later but before I die I may never see another 59cm frame w/126mm rear I'd want to buy! I looked for months before find this one. Don't know how easily a 120/126 rear hub can be forced intoa 130 rear.

Another option: My UO8 is running nice 1st gen Shimano 600 hubs, but hanging on a wall are the original steel Crolux wheels with high-flange Normandy hubs. If those bearing races are okay (ISTR they were okay last time I looked), I can restring them into the UO8's current alloy rims (F Sun M-13II, R Mavic MA2). That would restore some of the UO8's Frenchness and give me two nice hubs for the Brava. But they'd still be 36H, and most likely I'd have to buy 72 new spokes for the UO8 anyway. Plus I can't make myself take those shiny steel wheels apart.

Most likely I'll look slowly for wheels, and then just spring for building nice ones if nothing good shows up.

Similarly I need to decide about a crank. I have a Sugino Maxy but would need an inner ring (I think), and maybe a smaller big ring too. I have a few spindles to try but all my free BB bearing cups are French. Or I could just go with a cartridge BB. Or maybe a full 105 crank with hollow arms, very non-C&V but black against a black frame.

I do like the idea of a donor bike. If Sharon would let me... A lot of basement space is already taken up with the tandem!
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Old 12-02-11, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by bikemore
I have a basement full of wheels (really I don't want to say the number, but it is way more then a reasonable person should own), and I am not too far away.
If you don't care about matching wheels I might be able to help out. Also have spokes and hubs, some for cheap.
Awesome! Expect a PM.
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Old 12-02-11, 02:46 PM
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I would go with a un54 for the bottom bracket. Just match the length to whatever square taper cranks you come across (I believe someone in the FS section is selling 105 cranks for $25 or something). That would be a decent cost effective setup that you could install and beat on for like 10 years with no maintenance. External bearing cranks are good but you need different tools for them and you may need to give them more attention to keep them performing at 100%. They aren't as easy to find for a reasonable price however there are these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TruVativ-Eli...ht_2836wt_1189

I have these on one of my bikes and they're fine, you just need to actually torque them to spec. It's a standard sram bottom bracket. The cranks are self extracting as well.
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Old 12-02-11, 08:19 PM
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I say buy or build or scavenge the lightest wheels you can get. Since this has a tighter geometry than your other bikes, this is the place to put nice wheels.

These crazy low-spoke-count wheels actually hold up for some people. Take a bit of a chance. And even more importantly, don't skimp on tires.
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Old 12-03-11, 12:55 AM
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check out these wheels:
https://www.velomine.com/index.php?ma...ath=86_235_242

lowest prices i've seen and shipping is pretty cheap as well. i just bought the tiagra/a319s for 130 delivered. can't beat that. open pro/105 for $139 sounds right up your alley.
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Old 12-03-11, 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by mazdaspeed
I would buy a set of used wheels because it will cost less. As for components shimano 105 or 600 are a good value.
Yes pick up a set of good 700c wheels used 126 or 130 with freewheel or cartridge and scewers you can often find decent sets in shops,cl or bike coops for under $100 often times with good tires.
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Old 12-03-11, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by bikemore
I have a basement full of wheels (really I don't want to say the number, but it is way more then a reasonable person should own), and I am not too far away.
If you don't care about matching wheels I might be able to help out. Also have spokes and hubs, some for cheap.
This man. He's got a shop's supply in his basement.
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Old 12-03-11, 11:37 AM
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On a budget? Two words: USED WHEELS. People continually dump anything that does not have 130 spacing around here.

Many of the used wheels I find come in the shape of a bicycle, so I end up getting other reusable parts as well.
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Old 12-03-11, 11:50 AM
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I just got decent a set at the bike coop today for free because they had slightly odd spacing something like 128 and a screw type 7 speed regida. Great shape but with a couple of spokes and one scewer gone.
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Old 12-03-11, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by wrk101
On a budget? Two words: USED WHEELS. People continually dump anything that does not have 130 spacing around here.

Many of the used wheels I find come in the shape of a bicycle, so I end up getting other reusable parts as well.
i've seen you post this a few times before. this definitely isn't the case in my market. there are very few wheelsets in general.
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Old 12-03-11, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by illwafer
i've seen you post this a few times before. this definitely isn't the case in my market. there are very few wheelsets in general.
Well some markets are different right know there are a dozen or so good wheelsets for sale on Denvers CL for decent prices plus a couple dozen more attached to bike shaped objects.
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Old 12-03-11, 03:47 PM
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I did some Bianchi-searching on the WWW yesterday. This bike is definitely 1989. So it may have been made in either Japan or Italy, but probably Japan from the BB dimensions. One old review I found said it was 4130 chrom-moly steel, probably by Ishiwata. At 7lbs (frame, fork, headset) it isn't super light but it should be quick anyway.

Re wheels, I'm going to meet up with bikemore some time this week, see what he has. I've listened to what all of you have said and will go with wheels as high-end as I can find, short of breaking the bank. FWIW, it isn't so much a matter of budget as just wanting to make things cost-effective. Which is another way of saying I'm watching what things cost, I guess, but with a purpose.

I visited Broadway Bicycle School this afternoon, found a very nice SR handlebar, an acceptable SR stem, and a clean, lightweight 26.6mm seatpost of the style with double lateral bolts like the Simplex post on my Peugeot for the last 25 years. It's not the most convenient arrangement to adjust but it does work and is infinitely adjustable. I didn't ask about wheels but I saw only new-looking wheels hanging from the ceiling.

Brakes will wait until I have wheels so I can measure the reach. Crank, BB, and pedals are still TBD, but mazdaspeed's un54 suggestion seems good, with a used 105 crank if I can find one. What is the BCD of the 105? I'd love to equip this as a compact double, 48/34. I have an unused set of standard-thread Lyotard Berthet platform pedals but I don't want to risk a meltdown by putting them on a Japanese Italian bike.

I intended to get down to Bikes Not Bombs (another Boston bike landmark, for those of you in other parts of the world) but time was running short. That's not an easy trip except via the T (Boston's subway). From where I live BNB is at the far end of a twisty little maze of passages.

Gotta' go. Bike parts are calling me...
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Old 12-03-11, 05:14 PM
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Well, dang. The nice bar and stem fit just great, but that seatpost labeled 26.6 was too narrow. Hmmmmm, it measures 26.2. Ah well, that's the cost of going with used parts. I'll donate it back to BBS and pick up another. (I thought I measured it while I was there but maybe not. Or maybe I saw 26.2 and read it as 26.6. Funny how the mind can play tricks.)
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Old 12-03-11, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by bradtx
Jim, Looks like an opportunity to build a little hot rod. I wouldn't worry about the LP18 rims and here's a set you may like better https://www.bicyclewheels.com/merchan...egory_Code=RWO . These probably have 130 mm rear spacing, which isn't a problem since you're measuring 126 mm.

Brad
I had this rear wheel on my bike and absolutely hated it. I got it for almost nothing as a new take-off from a friend and felt like I overpaid greatly. The rims stayed true for maybe 30 miles at a time. I had to true it once a week, if not more. The hubs are the lowest of the low that shimano makes, though I didn't have any problems with the hubs themselves. I do weigh about 200 lbs, so that might have been the problem. I ended up putting the old wheel back on and gave the wheel away.
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