Change out Canti to V brakes
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Change out Canti to V brakes
What is a good kit for V brakes? and upgrading to V brakes should be simple to replace canti?
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It's _almost_ always an easy switch. Some of the C & V Japanese bikes from the 80's, for example, use a slightly different spacing for the mounting posts (and usually have horizontal form Dia-Compe cantis). I'm not sure whether conversion to V-brake is even possible for these without changing the posts.
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the cable pull required for cantilevers is different then that of vs. you either need v specific levers or a travel agent (which is a PITA to set up). V's do stop better than Cantis, but I think if you are using drop bars it may be more trouble and expense than it is worth.
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Properly adjusted cantis stop pretty much the same as v-brakes, they're just hard to properly adjust. My undersatanding is that you can't run road levers with v-brakes unless you do this whole elaborate pulley system. If it's a MTB from the 80s-90s, you can probably do it fairly easily.
#7
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Long down hills on the trail can be fatiguing to your hands with a Cantilever brake setup of some types/combinations.
if you don't put your bike in that kind of service, it may not be much of a gain.
if you don't put your bike in that kind of service, it may not be much of a gain.
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Properly adjusted cantis stop pretty much the same as v-brakes, they're just hard to properly adjust. My undersatanding is that you can't run road levers with v-brakes unless you do this whole elaborate pulley system. If it's a MTB from the 80s-90s, you can probably do it fairly easily.
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Properly setup, Vs and cantis stop the same, with the same amount of lever effort. The difference is the ratios at both ends, which only affects the movement and amount of tension on the cable in between the lever and the brakes. The move to V-brakes eliminated any problems with the straddle cable on cantis snagging a tire (which was also solved with the newer Shimano system), and allows more flexibility because the cable goes straight to the noodle, eliminating the need for a suitably positioned cable stop.
The only reason I can think of to change to Vs is to take advantage of the wider range of levers/brifters currently available for them. There's no advantage in braking ability.
The only reason I can think of to change to Vs is to take advantage of the wider range of levers/brifters currently available for them. There's no advantage in braking ability.
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I have to disagree with the idea that V brakes have no better stopping power than cantilevers. Properly set up with stabilizer (also known as Brake Booster), A V brake is like a 26" disc brake. As far as Travel Agent, it is not hard to set up, and makes a very smooth, easy to modulate braking effort possible.
My touring frame is not set up for disc brakes, so I used a V brake with Brake Booster and Travel Agent, and it works very well.
I did put a disc fork on it, with an Avid road BB7 and 203mm rotor.
My touring frame is not set up for disc brakes, so I used a V brake with Brake Booster and Travel Agent, and it works very well.
I did put a disc fork on it, with an Avid road BB7 and 203mm rotor.
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You're arguing with math and physics. The simple fact is, with proper setup, a similar pressure on the lever results in similar clamping force on the rim. You can get boosters for cantis, too, if you've got a bike with flex-y seatstays.
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As far as V brakes vs Cantilevers; both can skid a wheel right? Then both stop the same...
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I've got a old Trek 620 that has Cantilever brakes with drop bar brakes and a modern Trek 520 with V-Brakes with drop bar brakes. Both were set up at a bike shop. The one with the V-brakes has definitely more stopping power. The cantilever bike even has kool stops too while the V-brake bike has OEM pads.
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I've got a old Trek 620 that has Cantilever brakes with drop bar brakes and a modern Trek 520 with V-Brakes with drop bar brakes. Both were set up at a bike shop. The one with the V-brakes has definitely more stopping power. The cantilever bike even has kool stops too while the V-brake bike has OEM pads.
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There are also "mini v-brakes" that work properly with typical road levers without using a travel agent adapter. I've ordered some for my cyclocross bike and will be trying them out next week (Tektro RX-5 which has 85mm arms).
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What do you mean no place to anchor the cable? If you're talking about the bike set up for cantis, then it'll already have the cable housing hanger and if you're talking about V-brakes or Mini-Vs then there is no need for one because the housing runs to the brake noodle itself (or travel agent adapter if that's what is being used).
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No need to worry. Cantilever bosses are V-brake bosses. If the bike had U-brakes, you'd be hosed. But it doesn't. All you need are the brakes and levers.
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#25
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They are all pretty decent , a Coke or Pepsi kind of thing ..
price points are often just polishing or paint.
Cane Creek Direct curve design makes the noodle un needed.
price points are often just polishing or paint.
Cane Creek Direct curve design makes the noodle un needed.