adlai

I bought this frame.

https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/value-guide/product/92897/

I've been trying to install this headset:

https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/ritchey-logic-1-1-8-quot-threadless-headset-black

It is just enough that it does not fit. I think that if I use more force I'm at risk of cracking the carbon legs. The crown race is already rubbing paint off where it is in contact.

I am wondering if maybe there is some incompatible standard that I missed. JIS vs ISO?

I see threaded headsets that say 30.2. 30.2 vs 30.0 seems to me like that would be enough margin to fit it on.

base2 

Interference fit.
Your local bike shop has a tool similar to a slide hammer for just such a purpose.
It'll cost around $10-$15. for a race...around $30 for a whole headset.

Maelochs

https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/valu...product/92897/ 2005 Kona Kona Deluxe Stock Headset 1 1/8 inch threadless Aheadset STS

https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...-headset-black Ritchey Logic Comp 1-1/8" Threadless Headset: EC34/28.6 EC34/30, Black

https://problemsolversbike.com/files/tech/s.h.i.s.pdf Cane Creek headset sizes cheat sheet

Cane Creeks recommended dimensions : S.H.I.S. 34 (Legacy name: 1 /18) Inside diameter 34 --- actually 33.90 - 33.95 mm (I believe the 28.6 is the steerer tube diameter and 30 is the inner headset diameter.)

Did you measure your tubes and headset crown race with a micrometer? Are you sure the dimensions are as you posted? Just asking, given the info above.

Also you say
Yes .... well, you need a Threadless headset. And apparently you bought the wrong size, based on what I see here, and on the fact that you could not make it fit.

I applaud you for not using the "bigger hammer" solution. Pounding on a CF fork with all the force reacting through the dropouts seems like a bad idea, I agree.

I made a DIY headset press out of PVC tubing when I was assembling a couple of carbon frames.

For the top I used a piece which supported the race with a piece inside it which acted as a guide. Flip the frame upside down, pop the cup into place, and whack the PVC vertically on the floor. Alternatively, use a support piece which is long enough to reach the floor in place of the fork, slide in a smaller guide piece, drop the headset cup down the guide piece, drop a larger piece over that, and hammer the PVC from the top.

For the fork race I used a PVC tube big enough to support the headset and longer than the steerer and slid the fork Down over that so that the PVC tube rested on the floor, holding the bearing race in place. I then picked up the fork by the legs near the crown on slammed it down. The force all reacts through the PVC to the floor---the steerer doesn't hit the floor, and the legs are pointing up, so no forces hit the fork anywhere except on the race and where it should seat.

The whole idea is never to pound the frame or fork against the ground.

I am sure there is something on YouTube about DIY headset presses. Pretty sure I found the ideas there.

However, if the headset is really a few millimeters too big, you might be heading for disaster. ..... If it is really just two-tenths of a millimeter too big, I would assume you could set the bearing race with a judicious use of force.

dsaul

There is only one size crown race for 1 1/8" forks. Never pound on a crown race with the fork legs on a hard surface(learned that lesson the hard way). I hold the fork in my hand and use a section of pipe to hammer the race on, or use a section of PVC pipe in a vise and hold the fork upside down by both legs and drive it down onto the PVC pipe. Edit- also lube the interface between the crown race and the fork.

Litespud

i had to give my King crown race some robust whacks to set it. Wary of doing this with the fork on the ground, I set a length of 2x4 between two trestles, rounded off a few inches of the 2x4 with a rasper so the crotch of the fork sat snugly down onto the wood, and whacked away with a clear conscience.

fietsbob

OP sees listed info, but did not make the effort to actually measure the crown race seat and the crown race to know for themselves..

30,2 seat & 30.0 race ? consider taking the difference down to 0.5 mm..

unterhausen

If there is paint on the mating surfaces, it should be faced. Kona is pretty good, but my LBS faces and chases the headset and bb on every bike, including Kona.

As others have said, it's an interference fit.

jbucky1

1. Post photos
2. There shouldn't be paint where the crown race sits
3. Get the right tools to set the crown race, it should be a non moving super tight fit (interference like others said)
4. Dont mount a crown race with the fork legs touching a hard surface (other said this)

james
www.buckyrides.com

adlai

Okay.




Because it is an older fork, maybe the material expanded or something? The only thing I can think of is to use paint remover or a rotating sander to trim some paint from the inside of the crown race. Also see the wear marks on it.

adlai

Okay.




Because it is an older fork, maybe the material expanded or something? The only thing I can think of is to use paint remover or a rotating sander to trim some paint from the inside of the crown race. Also see the wear marks on it.

fietsbob

See #6 Use A Caliper, state numbers read,
Data, not a Camera..

crown race setting tool.. functionally it's like a ring hammer..

jbucky1

The pictures look fine.
Sorry to go backwards, are you using a tool to mount it or just your hand? - coz you need a tool

james
www.buckyrides.com

guy153

The crown race seat should be 30.0. If you have a caliper you can check that. Use grease, a tube the right size and a hammer but as others have said hold the fork in one hand while you tap (it needs a pretty smart tap) on the tube. A heavier hammer may help.

If it really doesn't want to go on try to figure out which component is the wrong size and just sand it down a little bit. So long as it's on there and square it's all good.

canklecat

I used one of these to set the crown race on my bike. Works fine. It seems crude, just a shaped bit of steel pipe used to whang the crown race down flush with the fork crown. There are two pieces used to match the angle of the crown race. Then the larger pipe is used as a hammer, slipped around the steerer tube.

The only difference between this tool and similar designs is the smaller tubes beveled to match the crown race angle are separate from the hammer end. With some similar tools a grub screw is used to lock the two pieces together. The one I got seems less fussy.

As other folks suggested, with a carbon fiber fork and/or steerer tube, it's better to firmly handhold the fork with one hand and whang down the hammer and crown race with the other. It'll take more whacks to set it flush, but it's less likely to damage the fork ends.

If you search around, especially on YouTube, you'll find lots of suggestions to use PVC pipe to set a crown race. No way would that have worked with mine. The fit was much too tight, and plastic pipe would have shattered from the necessary impacts. User reviews on the metal setting tools say the same thing -- they tried the PVC pipe trick and it didn't work for them, while the metal pipe tools did.

JayKay3000

From your pictures it looks like you've not greased where the race goes which will make it more difficult.

You'll need some pvc pipe that can sit on the race and long enough so it fits over the steer tube. Get a small bit of wood and put it on top and then use a rubber mallet to give it a few hard hits. It's not supposed to go on with hand pressure or a gentle push. You have to hit that thing in place.

If you search for the frame, then the use the steer tube specs you can find a compatible race.

Even if it is the right size it's not the easiest thing to get on.

adlai

My ultimate solution:

Maelochs

Wow I hope that is a joke.

Fahrenheit531 

Thread just got exciting.

Maelochs

Yeah, be sure to keep a video log ....

adlai

I sanded the inside of the crown race and I got it to fit. Still pretty snug.

My theory is that the metal in the fork expanded over time. Maybe it was compressed and then when the crown race was removed it sprung back. Anyways, it fits now and I got the crown race on.

A lot of people split their crown race. Also, since it has sealed bearings, the crown race is kind of a formality anyways and doesn't matter.

base2 

Wrong on so many levels & so many ways.

Dumbest esh I have seen in a long time.

Good luck with every bump & shock your bike experiences getting a running start as it slams into the assembly.

Be sure to let us know how the dental work goes.

Base2
(Who has broken 2 forks over loose crown race issues.)

Maelochs

Well .... his theories are totally unsupported by science, but his method might work.

If he bought the wrong sized unit, and adapted it to fit without weakening it so much it does split .... then regardless of his "expansion with time" theory (which is shown as our vintage bike frames and parts no longer work with new parts of the same specification .... the old ones have expanded, right? Everyone knows metal grows ..... ) His bike might work well and last a long time. If he weakened the race too much, took a way too much material .... well, he will find out.

I sure wouldn't ever let him wrench on anything I would ever ride .... but h might have found a solid solution in this one instance.

Of course, he might find out otherwise when he hits a hard bump at 44 mph and a steep downhill .....

Doc_Wui

Four years ago, I swapped a RST Crappa suspension fork into my Trek 830. That's a 1" threaded steerer. I was unable to cut the additional inch of thread needed on the steerer rube with my $39 die, so I converted it to a 1" threadless, thanks to input from this forum. I also have a problem installing the crown race. I probably measured it, but I didn't write it down. A typical FSA headset, I recall.

I made a press out of a pipe, and 3/4" threaded stock. I recall needing a 2 foot breaker bar to turn the nuts. I've since put crown races on two other forks, but they were 1 1/8", and they only needed a slight tap to seat.The threaded rods were later used to install cup bearings into frames.