One battery wired to headlight/taillight?
08-11-20, 07:19 AM
#1
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One battery wired to headlight/taillight?
is the such a thing? One battery pack wired to headlight and taillight? Rechargeable or battery.
08-11-20, 08:19 AM
#2
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All the lights in my house are wired to one service panel.
Connecting them in parallel will be your better solution as opposed to in series. From there you need to consider the amount of current the lights draw and the amount of current the battery can supply.
Or are you asking if someone sells this configuration as a boxed product?
Connecting them in parallel will be your better solution as opposed to in series. From there you need to consider the amount of current the lights draw and the amount of current the battery can supply.
Or are you asking if someone sells this configuration as a boxed product?
08-11-20, 11:24 AM
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You can look at e-bike products; these are often wired to 12V power from the main battery. For instance. L&M make a brighter 800-lumen headlamp as well; I wouldn't get the combo pack with the dimmer 500-lumen lamp. Also Supernova makes a lot of these, and various cheap 12V LED accessory lights for ATVs and such are all over amazon/ebay/alibaba etc. Then you just need a 12V battery and likely some switches (e-bikes usually have a switch panel, so the lights themselves often don't). I hope you can solder a decent waterproof connection, because this will be a DIY project.
I've got a touring dynohub system (Son28 + Forumslader) that outputs 12V, so I picked up the L&M headlight for my bike. Very compact, bright, waterproof, light, well-built, but not particularly cheap. I prefer a daylight-bright rear flasher for safety, and I haven't yet found a rear 12V light that does what I want, so I'm using a Cygolite Hotshot (small rechargeable battery unit) despite having onboard 12V.
If I didn't need the dyno to charge my electronic devices on tour - I'd stick with basic rechargeable front and rear lights. Too much effort and hassle and cost to go from charging 2 batteries (F&R) to one (12V battery). However going from six devices to charge after riding (rear light, phone, tablet, camera, headphones, cache battery) to zero has been great.
I've got a touring dynohub system (Son28 + Forumslader) that outputs 12V, so I picked up the L&M headlight for my bike. Very compact, bright, waterproof, light, well-built, but not particularly cheap. I prefer a daylight-bright rear flasher for safety, and I haven't yet found a rear 12V light that does what I want, so I'm using a Cygolite Hotshot (small rechargeable battery unit) despite having onboard 12V.
If I didn't need the dyno to charge my electronic devices on tour - I'd stick with basic rechargeable front and rear lights. Too much effort and hassle and cost to go from charging 2 batteries (F&R) to one (12V battery). However going from six devices to charge after riding (rear light, phone, tablet, camera, headphones, cache battery) to zero has been great.
08-11-20, 11:26 AM
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Wait, ignore all that - you're probably just looking for something like this. Great for commuting in the dark (my housemate has one) but the rear light isn't really daylight visible.
08-12-20, 03:29 PM
#7
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Diy
battery pack = 5 x 1.2v batteries in series.(= 6v) Ni Cad D's..
Now LEDs have advanced so I took it out put a 2x AAA powered tail light on the mudguard..
Bike I ride in the dark season now has a hub dynamo for power..
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 08-12-20 at 03:35 PM.
08-13-20, 03:28 AM
#8
Senior Member
B&M offers a wide range of e-bike lights (front and rear) with quite a flexible voltage input from usually 6 to 48 V. So you could connect two e-bike lights to a 3s or 4s Li-Ion battery.
08-18-20, 07:42 PM
#9
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There are gel cells to , for motorcycles so battery fluid wont spill . they're made pretty small ..may not have to be upright..
08-20-20, 02:04 PM
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Rear lights last so long it's usually just not worth it.
Best solution for convenience for me was one of two things:
1. Get a dynamo light - no battery charging ever, generates the electricity as you ride.
2. Store the bike and the light chargers next to each other, with the lights still on the bike plug them into the charger(s) after every ride.
Best solution for convenience for me was one of two things:
1. Get a dynamo light - no battery charging ever, generates the electricity as you ride.
2. Store the bike and the light chargers next to each other, with the lights still on the bike plug them into the charger(s) after every ride.
08-20-20, 03:37 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
Screwed up wheel today, ironically as I was dropping the bikes off at the bike store for their post-purchase, post 90 day ride warranty adjustment. Stupid stupid stupid. Wheel will have to be replaced. But in my latest incident of poor planning, it was the BACK wheel. [Slapping my head] Should'a hit that old lady on the sidewalk in her wheel chair with the FRONT wheel.
I'm sure a dynamo is in my future. Once I recover from the cost of these bikes and all the assorted paraphernalia.
I'm sure a dynamo is in my future. Once I recover from the cost of these bikes and all the assorted paraphernalia.
10-18-20, 04:04 PM
#12
jj
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To make the cyclist lifestyle less inelegant than unstrapping and plugging in my trio of usb lights at work & home, unstrapping & restrapping all three not cheap lights at the store, bolt-on lights and one removable battery does seem pretty ideal.
I’ve done the dynamo thing. I’m kinda grateful that one aspect of a big wreck I had is that it liberated me from that paranoia-inducingly expensive wheel and lightset which had me carrying around way more mass and volume in lock chain or cable than is truly sensible.
I’ll definitely do another dynamo wheel for touring, but for commuting a pair of L&M Urban 1000’s (one straight, one aimed off to the right for people at intersections too eager to turn right to be looking for a space between oncoming cars AND a random cyclist) and a retina burning Serfas Vulcan 350 plus a single lock seems about the least pain-in-the-butt setup.
I’ve done the dynamo thing. I’m kinda grateful that one aspect of a big wreck I had is that it liberated me from that paranoia-inducingly expensive wheel and lightset which had me carrying around way more mass and volume in lock chain or cable than is truly sensible.
I’ll definitely do another dynamo wheel for touring, but for commuting a pair of L&M Urban 1000’s (one straight, one aimed off to the right for people at intersections too eager to turn right to be looking for a space between oncoming cars AND a random cyclist) and a retina burning Serfas Vulcan 350 plus a single lock seems about the least pain-in-the-butt setup.
