Kapusta

Guess it depends what “par” is. If par is what comes on a more expensive bike, than sure. I mean, $3K bike parts are sub-par if you are used to $6K bikes.

Yeah, that thought has crossed my mind many times. I have experience with a few BD bikes (bought one lightly used and a few friends have bought them). Like you indicate, the wheels are the real weak spot.

rosefarts

Par might be the wrong word since they all do it. Sub optimal?

Wheels that are a lower tier than the drivetrain and frame.

zen_

Guess I have to disagree with a lot of people here on the wheel front at least. Most gravel bikes that are not top end do come with heavy wheels, but they are strong at least, and that's all you really need to start riding lots. A heavy second wheelset with no aero properties is also perfectly good for mud tires that are ready to go when needed, or to use with a wheel-on indoor trainer.

As for the rest of the bike when considering frameset vs. complete build, you have to consider how much you want to change, the price difference, and what you could recoup from take-off part sales. You may also want to keep some of the replaced parts as spares, or to use on other bikes.

Steve B.

You might be correct in that a typical gravel wheel is probably going to be a 23-25mm wide rim, which is inherently heavier and more durable than a factory wheel from 20 years ago, which was 20-21 mm wide. Maybe no better built but beefier. All a result of needing the width for tubeless gravel tires.

The WTB wheel that came on my 105 Alu Topstone has 700 miles on it and has never been touched. It’s a 28 spoke rim used by a Clyde as well.