Raleigh Lenton Sports, 23", complete bike
06-01-19, 04:36 PM
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Raleigh Lenton Sports, 23", complete bike
This bike is in New Jersey, halfway between NYC and Philadelphia.
Photos here: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmDZsFLj
I was thinking $150 plus shipping. Assuming I need to do some traveling in the next month or two, I would consider delivery between the NYC area and the Washington DC area. I'll be happy to box and ship it to you. I usually get a reasonable rate from UPS.
Anyway, this is a Raleigh Lenton Sports, straight gauge 531 frame, funky chrome handlebar, really cool lugs, AW hub date 51 10, serial BF 58282 (if I'm reading it right). I believe that makes it 1951 bike.
It appears to be pretty much all original, but in fact I have changed a few parts, such as the crank, which had a bent arm. I did not change the shifter, but it is a slightly later model. The original fenders are long gone. The saddle is one I recovered myself. The chain appears to be newer. The decals are faded and the original green paint is mostly worn away, revealing a tough and shiny black undercoat. The paint on the fork is much better.The Dunlop EA1 (26x1¼") rims have worn out chrome and rust pitting. The tires not original, and they are tired ... but holding.
Worst, the frame has crash damage. There is a very slight ripple in the down tube about 2" down from the lug. It is hard to see it, but you can feel it. There is no corresponding ripple in the top tube. The chain stays are slightly deformed from a kickstand.
The saddle is a pretty fair copy of a 1950's Brooks B17 Flyweight Narrow, but it has a steel frame with no bag loops. The stamps say "FLYWEIGHT NARROW." The rivets are brass. I normally charge $100 to recover a saddle, and sell recovered saddles for $125 or so, so the saddle is the main justification for the price. Anyway, I'm moving later month and would love to pass this thing on to someone who understands it. It's not perfect, but it's still pretty cool. I'm attaching one photo now, but there are a lot more in the link above.
Last edited by rhm; 06-03-19 at 08:05 AM.
06-01-19, 04:43 PM
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Hmm. Like I need another. PM of curiosity sent.
-Kurt
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06-01-19, 05:13 PM
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I have a bunch of photos that I will upload to Flickr in the dead of night.
The paint is original and is protecting the steel as well as any paint could. It would be hard to justify a repaint for anything but cosmetic purposes.
That said, the paint ain't pretty. The decals are hard to see. The 531 decal is illegible. The few patches of bright silvery green are merely a reminder of past glory.
The paint on the fork is good, though. If it weren't for that, I would consider polishing the frame down to a uniform black, taking care to leave the decals alone.
The paint is original and is protecting the steel as well as any paint could. It would be hard to justify a repaint for anything but cosmetic purposes.
That said, the paint ain't pretty. The decals are hard to see. The 531 decal is illegible. The few patches of bright silvery green are merely a reminder of past glory.
The paint on the fork is good, though. If it weren't for that, I would consider polishing the frame down to a uniform black, taking care to leave the decals alone.
06-01-19, 05:16 PM
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I have a bunch of photos that I will upload to Flickr in the dead of night.
The paint is original and is protecting the steel as well as any paint could. It would be hard to justify a repaint for anything but cosmetic purposes.
That said, the paint ain't pretty. The decals are hard to see. The 531 decal is illegible. The few patches of bright silvery green are merely a reminder of past glory.
The paint on the fork is good, though. If it weren't for that, I would consider polishing the frame down to a uniform black, taking care to leave the decals alone.
The paint is original and is protecting the steel as well as any paint could. It would be hard to justify a repaint for anything but cosmetic purposes.
That said, the paint ain't pretty. The decals are hard to see. The 531 decal is illegible. The few patches of bright silvery green are merely a reminder of past glory.
The paint on the fork is good, though. If it weren't for that, I would consider polishing the frame down to a uniform black, taking care to leave the decals alone.
-Kurt
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06-01-19, 08:17 PM
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This is a cool bike.
06-01-19, 09:28 PM
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06-02-19, 08:58 AM
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This bike is in New Jersey, halfway between NYC and Philadelphia.
I was thinking $150 plus shipping. Assuming I need to do some traveling in the next month or two, I would consider delivery between the NYC area and the Washington DC area. I'll be happy to box and ship it to you. I usually get a reasonable rate from UPS.Anyway, this is a Raleigh Lenton Sports, straight gauge 531 frame, funky chrome handlebar, really cool lugs, AW hub date 51 10, serial BF 58282 (if I'm reading it right).It appears to be pretty much all original, but in fact I have changed a few parts, such as the crank, which had a bent arm. I did not change the shifter, but it is a slightly later model. The original fenders are long gone. The saddle is one I recovered myself. The chain looks new, I must have replaced it. The decals are faded and the original green paint is mostly worn away, revealing a tough and shiny black undercoat. The paint on the fork is much better.The Dunlop EA1 (26x1¼") rims have worn out chrome and rust pitting. The tires not original, and they are tired ... but holding.And worst, the frame has crash damage. There is a very slight ripple in the down tube about 2" down from the lug. It is hard to see it, but you can feel it. There is no corresponding ripple in the top tube.The saddle is a pretty fair copy of a 1950's Brooks B17 Flyweight Narrow, but it has a steel frame with no bag loops. The stamps say "FLYWEIGHT NARROW." The rivets are brass. I normally charge $100 to recover a saddle, and sell recovered saddles for $125 or so, so the saddle is the main justification for the price.Anyway, I'm moving later month and would love to pass this thing on to someone who understands it. It's not perfect, but it's still pretty cool.I'm attaching one photo
but will post more on request.
I was thinking $150 plus shipping. Assuming I need to do some traveling in the next month or two, I would consider delivery between the NYC area and the Washington DC area. I'll be happy to box and ship it to you. I usually get a reasonable rate from UPS.Anyway, this is a Raleigh Lenton Sports, straight gauge 531 frame, funky chrome handlebar, really cool lugs, AW hub date 51 10, serial BF 58282 (if I'm reading it right).It appears to be pretty much all original, but in fact I have changed a few parts, such as the crank, which had a bent arm. I did not change the shifter, but it is a slightly later model. The original fenders are long gone. The saddle is one I recovered myself. The chain looks new, I must have replaced it. The decals are faded and the original green paint is mostly worn away, revealing a tough and shiny black undercoat. The paint on the fork is much better.The Dunlop EA1 (26x1¼") rims have worn out chrome and rust pitting. The tires not original, and they are tired ... but holding.And worst, the frame has crash damage. There is a very slight ripple in the down tube about 2" down from the lug. It is hard to see it, but you can feel it. There is no corresponding ripple in the top tube.The saddle is a pretty fair copy of a 1950's Brooks B17 Flyweight Narrow, but it has a steel frame with no bag loops. The stamps say "FLYWEIGHT NARROW." The rivets are brass. I normally charge $100 to recover a saddle, and sell recovered saddles for $125 or so, so the saddle is the main justification for the price.Anyway, I'm moving later month and would love to pass this thing on to someone who understands it. It's not perfect, but it's still pretty cool.I'm attaching one photo
but will post more on request.
06-02-19, 11:58 AM
#8
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Doh, I forgot to upload photos. Sorry, I'll get to it!
I believe the bike was made in 1951.
I just remembered a pair of Wald fenders I had, so I installed them. The chrome look is consistent with the rest of the bike, though the fit is not ideal.
I believe the bike was made in 1951.
I just remembered a pair of Wald fenders I had, so I installed them. The chrome look is consistent with the rest of the bike, though the fit is not ideal.
06-02-19, 01:23 PM
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Dunlop EA1 (26x1¼") rims questions:
These rims are pretty much unobtanium? What about the tires? Are the tires the same as the Schwinn S6?
Those brake pads are pretty much all the way down, right? Just wondering because if rebuilding these rims with 26 x 1 and 3/8 rims, those are a bit smaller but that would let you run alloy rims and have better tire choices.
This is a cool bike.
These rims are pretty much unobtanium? What about the tires? Are the tires the same as the Schwinn S6?
Those brake pads are pretty much all the way down, right? Just wondering because if rebuilding these rims with 26 x 1 and 3/8 rims, those are a bit smaller but that would let you run alloy rims and have better tire choices.
This is a cool bike.
06-02-19, 06:00 PM
#10
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Okay that's two good questions... If you want good answers, try different questions! 
This rim is best called EA1, or 597. Tire selection is limited to two or three options, none of them great. But that's hardly an issue since the rims are obsolete too (I have a lonely lovely Dunlop Special Lightweight 32h rim for the front that I can toss in the box, or a pair of Dunlop Special Lightweight 36h wheels... with flip flop hub).
But a better question is whether you'd be better off upgrading to 700c (622) or to EA3 (590). You can certainly fit 700c wheels plus fenders, but I'm not sure what size tires. 28 mm yes, 32 mm probably, 35 mm probably in front but not in the rear. I would suggest 700c.
If you're patient I can test all these... be patient!
This rim is best called EA1, or 597. Tire selection is limited to two or three options, none of them great. But that's hardly an issue since the rims are obsolete too (I have a lonely lovely Dunlop Special Lightweight 32h rim for the front that I can toss in the box, or a pair of Dunlop Special Lightweight 36h wheels... with flip flop hub).
But a better question is whether you'd be better off upgrading to 700c (622) or to EA3 (590). You can certainly fit 700c wheels plus fenders, but I'm not sure what size tires. 28 mm yes, 32 mm probably, 35 mm probably in front but not in the rear. I would suggest 700c.
If you're patient I can test all these... be patient!
Dunlop EA1 (26x1¼") rims questions:
These rims are pretty much unobtanium? What about the tires? Are the tires the same as the Schwinn S6?
Those brake pads are pretty much all the way down, right? Just wondering because if rebuilding these rims with 26 x 1 and 3/8 rims, those are a bit smaller but that would let you run alloy rims and have better tire choices.
This is a cool bike.
These rims are pretty much unobtanium? What about the tires? Are the tires the same as the Schwinn S6?
Those brake pads are pretty much all the way down, right? Just wondering because if rebuilding these rims with 26 x 1 and 3/8 rims, those are a bit smaller but that would let you run alloy rims and have better tire choices.
This is a cool bike.
06-02-19, 07:56 PM
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I mounted EA3/590mm wheels with Col de la vie tires to my departed Lenton Sports with original brakes. They fit just fine:
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06-02-19, 08:12 PM
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06-02-19, 08:41 PM
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I have a Raleigh Lenton Tourist, which likely has very similar dimensions to the Lenton Sports, and am running it with 700c x 32mm tires and fenders (and a set of brakes from a 1948 Claud Butler that came with EA1 wheels):
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06-03-19, 05:03 AM
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I so want this but my discretionary funds are kaput.
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06-03-19, 08:01 AM
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06-07-19, 05:13 PM
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Despite several email/pm expressions of interest, bike is still available. Just saying...
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