jonny7

Hi all,

Might sound like a dumb question but I just picked up a gorgeous Gardin today and I'm having trouble rising the stem, and I'm wondering if I'm doing it wrong or if it is perhaps seized in the fork? If it is indeed seized, what should I do?

It has one of those weird Modolo rubber stem (see pics). I of course loosened the top bolt but I still can't make the adjustement. The stem will barely move left and right when I apply a pretty strong pressure.

Also any comment on the bike is welcome It has a 7005 aluminum frame, an 8sp 105 groupset (1056), Europa Super Racing handlebars, cool Recondi Record (?) rims (never heard of them...) Still trying to gather more info on the bike.

As I'm still not allowed to attach photos, here are the links for the pics of the stem. I had to add an extra space in the URL in order to go around the system, same for the previous URL.

ibb . co/sKRjmkp
ibb . co/9hS9dSB
ibb . co/6Brh5kw

Kuromori

Did you try tapping the bolt with something to free the wedge/cone? If so, try using a volatile/penetrating oil spray first, usually available at the hardware or auto store under various brands.

jonny7

This actually did it, I should have thought about it. But now let's follow up with an ever dumber question. Is it possible that before tapping the bolt, I unthreaded it too much, ending up "freeing" the cone? I'm now able to move the stem, but can't tighten it.

Classtime 

Maybe. Pull the stem out and tip the bike so the wedge drops out and you can put it back together.

dddd

Yes, exactly.

So now just invert the bike and poke a thin metal rod "up" through the bottom, past the brake bolt that kinda gets in your way.

Should be easy to do, the wedge is not wedged at this point, but might still be easier with a spritz of WD40 sprayed inside the steerer.

The wedge may just fall out on it's own with the bike inverted, but it won't fit through the narrowed bottom end of the steer tube.

Put grease in the tube and on the wedge and threaded bolt before reassembling!

jonny7

Thanks everybody, that did it. The bike is now completly adapted to my height. Can't wait to actually ride it!

If anybody else has a Gardin with an aluminum frame and brifters (mine's all in 105: headset, hubs, shifters, brakes, etc. etc.), I'd love to see some pics / to gather some info! Kinda hard to identify mine as the only thing written on it is Gardin..

T-Mar

The component group is Shimano 105SC which, if OEM , places it 1990-1998, while the presence of OEM brifters would eliminate 1990-1992. The frame itself appears to be aluminum, witha steel fork, which to me suggests 1980s. To the best of my knowledge. Gardin did not manufacture aluminum frames, only steel. Serial number?

unworthy1

No idea who may have built such frames for Gardin BITD, but it does look like probably aluminum with a steel-alloy fork (pic-assist).
I'd warn you that this model of "hinged" Modolo stem has a reputation for breaking, so if I were you I'd replace it just to be on the safe side.

jonny7

It's indeed an aluminum frame with a steel fork. Kind of a weird combo, no? Thanks for the heads up concerning the stem. Rising it the way I did probably makes it even more "fragile". I tried not too overkill it since there's no limit line on the stem (perhaps it has has disappeared with the years), but still. I'll try to read more on those Modolo models. It doesn't look all that good so it would be a shame replacing it ha!

unworthy1

It's not so much an issue of the quill being extended up beyond the limit line (tho that's to be avoided with ANY brand quill stem), but here's one thread on the topic and note there was an attempt by Modolo to do damage-control and make an improved replacement after the recall:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-straight.html

jonny7

Holy cow ! Just read the thread. I'll definitely have to check this when I get home.

jonny7

T-Mar, I totally forgot to give you the SN. Here it is. 1992?