Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Brake mismatch: go or nogo?

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Brake mismatch: go or nogo?

Old 06-24-19, 11:25 AM
  #1  
kevrider
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
kevrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: northern nevada
Posts: 360

Bikes: way too many

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 61 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times in 3 Posts
Brake mismatch: go or nogo?

my wife an I have gravel bikes, Diamondback Haanjo and Haanjenn, they were bottom of the line, purchased last year. the plan was to use these as commuters and errand runners, but they turned out to be quite fun for all sorts of rides. so far this year, it's the only bike I have ridden, this mixed surface thing is great, so there have been upgrades. the first change was to move from TRP Lyra to HyRd on my bike. I was underwhelmed at first, but facebook advised my to change the pads to SwissStop and that made a huge difference. based on that, I bought the same brakes for my wife. unfortunately, while my bike can accommodate 160mm rotors on both ends, her frame will not clear the HyRd caliper with a 160mm adapter. that was disappointing, I prefer that she has the same equipment that I have, or slightly better, I think it helps her confidence, esp on dirt. right now, she has the better wheels and tires, same upgraded drivetrain with a lower granny gear. but that scheme will not work with the brakes. I have reverted her bike to 140mm rear with the HyRd in place, but another option would be TRP Spyre with a 160mm rotor.

HyRd 160 front + HyRd 140 rear
-- or --
HyRd 160 front + Spyre 160 rear

which combo would you prefer? do you think a Spyre 160 will stop as well, or better than an HyRd 140? would there be a dramatic difference in feel at the lever if there is a hyrd on one end and spyre on the other end? I think it's fine if she has a little less braking power at the rear, maybe preferable, my rear locks a little too easily. but I think she would rather have the 160 on the rear. I just don't want it to feel weird at the lever and cause any problems in a tricky spot on a trail.
kevrider is offline  
Old 06-24-19, 11:53 AM
  #2  
fietsbob
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,355 Times in 862 Posts
I already had 160 discs front and rear

my rear hub R'off, 4 bolt 160 disc made by avid (wet weather transportation bike)

I changed from a BB7 caliper , to Hy Rd... (406 wheel Bike Friday )

140 is a common offering on road and cross bikes , as a weight savings, and the physics..

rear brake is not effective, as you unweight the rear wheel decelerating rapidly..
and mass is shifted forward.. [Newton, Isaac]

I like the auto pad wear compensation function of the Hy Rd..





....

Last edited by fietsbob; 06-24-19 at 12:00 PM.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 06-24-19, 11:57 AM
  #3  
Slightspeed
Senior Member
 
Slightspeed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 2,249

Bikes: 1964 Legnano Roma Olympiade, 1973 Raleigh Super Course, 1978 Raleigh Super Course, 1978 Peugeot PR10, 2002 Specialized Allez, 2007 Specialized Roubaix, 2013 Culprit Croz Blade

Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 741 Post(s)
Liked 818 Times in 421 Posts
I've got regular TRP Spyres on my Culprit road bike, and I'm pretty happy with the performance of the Spyres. A friend with an identical frame put the HY/RD on his front wheel. The rear frame design is too tight to allow the HD/RD to fit, so he has been fine with the HD/RD on the front only. We have stock 160/140mm rotors front and rear. I'm not sure, but hope it helps to answer your questions, at least for road use. I have not ridden his bike with this set-up, but it makes sense since the front wheel does most of the stopping. Here's my stock set up.

Slightspeed is offline  
Old 06-24-19, 12:04 PM
  #4  
CliffordK
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18350 Post(s)
Liked 4,502 Times in 3,346 Posts
Some might advocate for slightly stronger brakes on front than on the rear.

So, I would try the 160/140 brakes, and see how you like them.
CliffordK is offline  
Old 06-24-19, 12:28 PM
  #5  
GamblerGORD53
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elevation 666m Edmonton Canada
Posts: 2,475

Bikes: 2013 Custom SA5w / Rohloff Tourster

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1233 Post(s)
Liked 318 Times in 245 Posts
My heavyweight tour bike has had SA drum front brake since new. For the first 12,000 miles the rear brake was a crummy caliper that couldn't stop a fly, so that tells you how good the drum was working.
Then I finally got a DIY mount welded on for a 203 disc on the Rohloff, with a cable Spyre brake. It can now EASILY stop the wheel 100%.
So now I use the drum to slow down and the disc to stop.. NOW. Rear brakes supposedly don't do much??
My bike has a limo WB 4 or 5" longer than usual and is 80 or 120 lbs.

Last week I blundered in front of a car turning right. Got a slow speed bump broadside against my wrap around KS/ bumper. Didn't even fall over. LOL I just needed to unbend the KS.

Last edited by GamblerGORD53; 06-24-19 at 12:53 PM.
GamblerGORD53 is offline  
Old 06-24-19, 12:28 PM
  #6  
shelbyfv
Expired Member
 
shelbyfv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 11,505
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3653 Post(s)
Liked 5,391 Times in 2,736 Posts
I can't imagine she could tell the difference between 160 and 140 on the rear. Tell her she can save the extra weight of the 160s because she is petite.
shelbyfv is offline  
Old 06-24-19, 12:41 PM
  #7  
Rick
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,415
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 612 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 387 Times in 270 Posts
The CPSC sent a bulletin to bicycle shops years ago stating that the bicycle shops should not adjust brake shoes to close to the rims. This was supposed to keep people from going over the bars. This statement instead of teaching riders how to stop and be in balance so they don't pitch over the bars.
The industry pushed disk brakes and now they are limiting the size of the rotor by frame design to save money. My touring bike came with the spyre. I also tried the spyke and the HY/RD. I settled on the Paul Klamper calipers. I have a 203mm rotor on the rear and a 180mm rotor on the front. If you have a bicycle with cantilever or V brakes the Magura hs33 hydraulic rim brakes are superior to all other rim or disk brake made.
Rick is offline  
Old 06-24-19, 04:22 PM
  #8  
Troul 
Senior Member
 
Troul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Mich
Posts: 7,354

Bikes: RSO E-tire dropper fixie brifter

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked 2,944 Times in 1,906 Posts
It shouldn't matter any.

I often wonder why the rear cable for some bicycles route from the bottom then up? It is just harboring moisture, dirt, & puts the cable under unnecessary conditions. Any solutions around that while not getting expensive?
__________________
-Oh Hey!
Troul is offline  
Old 06-26-19, 05:51 AM
  #9  
Phil_gretz
Zip tie Karen
 
Phil_gretz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fair Oaks Ranch, TX
Posts: 7,004

Bikes: '13 Motobecane Fantom29 HT, '16 Motobecane Turino Pro Disc, '18 Velobuild VB-R-022, '21 Tsunami SNM-100

Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1465 Post(s)
Liked 1,542 Times in 806 Posts
I'm late to comment for the OP, but I'd never worry about using 160mm rotor on the front and 140mm on the rear. It's the front brake that matters most. In practice, and once familiar with disc brake use, she'll have plenty of stopping power either way, even with 140's on both.
Phil_gretz is offline  
Old 06-26-19, 07:32 AM
  #10  
jimincalif
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Meridian, ID
Posts: 2,333

Bikes: '96 Trek 850, '08 Specialized Roubaix Comp, '18 Niner RLT RDO

Mentioned: 56 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 569 Post(s)
Liked 123 Times in 83 Posts
I run 160 front / 140 rear on my gravel bike. It’s perfect, better than the original 140/140. I see no need for 160 rear, I can easily lock the rear with the 140, so the limiting factor is the tire/surface contact, not the brake. I suppose for really long sustained braking a 160 might deal with heat better, but I ride some pretty hilly routes both on and off road and it’s just never been an issue. I weigh 204# BTW. You’re wife’s bike should be just fine.
jimincalif is offline  
Old 06-26-19, 08:10 AM
  #11  
Wilfred Laurier
Señor Member
 
Wilfred Laurier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 5,066
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 649 Post(s)
Liked 292 Times in 215 Posts
In the vast majority of riding, your rear brake doesn't need to be used at all. In any other situation, like trying to scrub off speed when cornering on a loose surfaces, even a 140mm rotor should easily make the rear wheel skid..
Wilfred Laurier is offline  
Old 06-26-19, 11:22 AM
  #12  
kevrider
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
kevrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: northern nevada
Posts: 360

Bikes: way too many

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 61 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times in 3 Posts
thanks guys! as a motorcyclist, I am quite familiar with the physics of front vs rear braking. my mountain bikes were both 180/160 for a while, but a long descent cooked the fluid on a fully, so it's 180/180 now. my gravel bike became 160/160 because I already had the rotors and that was the cheapest way to set up two wheelsets per gravel bike. I figured I would handle a skidding rear better that she would. anyway, I was concerned about her feeling outgunned relative to my ride, then her new calipers arrived with two 160mm rotors. but I had a moment of clarity and asked her for a preference: she told me to KISS. so it'll be a HyRd 140 rear. figures.
kevrider is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
johngwheeler
Bicycle Mechanics
7
05-03-17 08:12 PM
Jaywalk3r
Bicycle Mechanics
22
04-12-17 08:24 AM
landdnl
General Cycling Discussion
4
05-04-15 06:50 AM
pablosnazzy
Mountain Biking
4
03-02-12 09:52 PM
MTBer_Dad
Mountain Biking
18
09-24-11 08:17 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.