Rodrider88

Hello all!

I just purchased a lovely 87 Miyata 1000! The frame in fantastic condition and a lot of original parts (though, a cheapo stem and handlebar setup)

It got me wondering about the tubing: I thought it was only the 1000LTs that had the triple butted tubing, but my new 1000 seems to have the stickers for triple butted.... can anyone shed any light?

I’m wanting to put some drop bars on it with new brake levers and handlebar end shifters

cheers, from a new member!

rgvg

Triple butted since 1985. Other models were also triple butted. Labels were STB or Spline Triple Butted later on.

Salamandrine 

Congratulations on your new top shelf touring bike! It probably won't take too much to get that bike set up properly. A nice bar and stem is a good start. I vote for Nitto.

Triple butted tubing wasn't some big improvement, necessarily. Frankly a bit of marketing is involved. Nevertheless, you have it, and it is an excellent frame.

Please keep us updated.

Rodrider88

Thanks for the information, folks!

I’ll be going for the slow and steady build I think, so before I strap up a nice SR handlebar with the brooks tape and all that, I’ll go for the basic controls:

- Sakae droppers on

- temporary RX100 levers that I have lying around (hopefully they’ll work well enough for now)
Later moving to some centre pulls I think - Tips welcome!

- bar end shifters, maybe see what’s going around second hand, or failing that some new set up. TBC.

- all on top of any old quill stem that I have lying around

i also have some Shimano arabesque stuff that I need to utilise... so that could be a go

BikeWonder

Don't forget to check out the new Miyata 1000 thread on here! Feel free to post pictures. Some of our bikes may even serve as inspiration for your build. I know some of theirs affected mine.

Cheers!

qclabrat

nice find, I still miss my '81
What size is the bike? Looks like it's larger than the 23" I had

ryansu

Center pull brakes? The bike is set for Cantilevers originally and someone converted to linear pull/V brakes, not really set up for center pulls- canit studs would interfere. Note if you go to drop bars then you need V-brake specific brake levers, if you go back to canti's then a basic drop bar brake lever will work (caliper, center pull, canit all the same) its a difference in cable pull iirc. Nice score that is a grail tourer for most folks.

Rodrider88

Will do! Where is this new Miyata 1000 thread on here?

wrk101

Personally, I would convert that Arabesque stuff to cash, rather than utilize. Then use the cash to assist for your build. Bar end shifters, I'd probably get an 8 speed set, they are available new. When I do this I limit out the lowest (big cog) on your RD. 7 and 8 speed are nearly identical spacing wise. I'd run it 7 speed.


Center pull brakes are a really bad idea. Original cantilever brakes were very nice. I see someone put V brakes on there, they are fine too. V brakes have a different pull ratio so your RX100 levers may not work.

Rodrider88

I'm actually just looking at bar end shifters now, but struggling to know what to go for. The current set up has indexing on the RD and friction on the front. I have been can't seem to get hold of any Suntour Barcons over here where I am (Sweden) so I'm looking at alternatives, however all seem to say 8 speed and up.

Are you saying I can still use a bar end shifter even though it is stated as 8 speed? using the limit screws and just using a 6 speed range in the shifter?

Regarding the brakes - I have some Tektro 720s on their way.

T-Mar

The Miyata 1000 used Miyata's proprietary Splined Triple Butted tubeset starting in 1986. The only year for non-splined triple butting on the 1000 was 1985. The 1987 American market model had a silver head tube. Offhand, I can't recall seeing that set of decals on any American market Miyata 1000. Serial number?

BikeWonder

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...l#post21001428

Rodrider88

Serial number is PA60681, but this is a model supplied in Sweden, so it may draw a blank when comparing to the US market Miyata

squirtdad

+1 on nitto great quality, finish and looks

my best riding bike is an 84 Miyata Team and it is double butted....

Rodrider88

Thanks- Looking for a Nitto but unsure which angle/ reach will work for me at the moment

wrk101

I never said 6 speed. Eight can work as seven. It will NOT work as six. Go friction in that case.

The Golden Boy 

Will 7 speed SIS shifters work on an 6 speed rear end? I have some 6400 shifters that can switch from 6 to 7, but they also have a little plastic piece that changes the circumference of the barrel. I've read that piece isn't necessary- and a lot of people don't even know it exists.

The Golden Boy 

Is that the original wheel set?

Is that 5 or 6 (or 7) speeds on the cassette/freewheel?


It looks like you have Deore XT derailleurs on there- those were the top of the line ATB/Touring units of their day. They're still REALLY good. Yours look really clean, from what I can see. I would not use any Arabesque parts on this bike- I personally think they look neat, but I think they do not work as well as Suntour parts from the same era. Additionally, Shimano stopped making the Arabesque parts through 1984- while I'm not exactly a hardline "period correct" sort of person- using the Arabesque parts would look incongruous on that bike. On top of that, that XT stuff was really really really good, and it looked tough, and it was tough.

Let us know how the Tektro 720s work on your bike. I've read different experiences - some say they work, some say they don't work.

Rodrider88

Yup, I’m totally ignoring there arabesque stuff now. My thinking here was only because the bike came with a cheap stem and flat handlebar setup, therefore with a SIS thumb shifter for the RD and a friction thinner shifter for the front. I thought I could maybe use the arabesque downtube shifters on it.

However, I’m now splashing out on some of the DIa Compe ENE bar end shifters (which I hope will work!!?)

The Shimano Deore XT runs like a treat though and like you say, it’s all looking in really good condition.

I believe it is the original wheelset and if so then it appears to have hardly been ridden!

6 speed cassette

JaccoW

I'm using those to shift a 9-speed cassette with a 6-speed era Sachs-Hurett long cage derailleur. You'll be fine.

As others have mentioned, measure your front canti studs before ordering the Tektro 720's. Chances are they are too narrow.

Rodrider88

Hmmm, so are these then too narrow? I know these are supposed to be the wide angle cantilevers but now I’m unsure whether it’s the lugs that are too narrow as you mentioned... as pictured they are currently touching the rim.

I’ve started to offer everything up to the frame now and minus the barrel adjuster/bosses for the brakes I think I’m ready to build!


...

Rodrider88

I’ve since noticed that there is a spacer that I can use to adjust, so I think it’s gonna be all good!

Just the frustrating case of trying to get hold of a couple of brake cable barrel adjusters now for the hanger

ryansu

If the studs were too narrow you would know the pads would be hitting the tire above the rim, as I know from personal experience, yours look fine to run the Tekros - I think on my old Passage the studs were about 80mm apart up front and would not take the Tektros

JaccoW

What you have there sort of works... but I will tell you already it won't provide a lot of stopping power. If that's the case you could try Koolstop Thinlines.

Rodrider88

Is this due to the angle or due to the brake pads on these Tektros?