Headset service cost
04-15-20, 05:43 AM
#26
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I've owned several bikes with the scalloped headset nuts. I've never purchased the tool. And I've never buggered them up either. Where there is a will, there's a way. 
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04-15-20, 06:28 AM
#27
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Poland seems to have the market cornered on reproduction Shimano headset wrenches. $18+8 for two.
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04-15-20, 06:39 AM
#28
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Shimano's EX series headsets (i.e. scalloped) are designed so that they will also work with a standard 32mm headset wrench. However, the dedicated wrenches are far less prone to marring the headset as slippage is almost impossible. This eliminated the drawbacks for lighter, aluminum headsets and facilitated adjustment. It was a superior design, which cyclists did not appreciate.
04-15-20, 06:40 AM
#29
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No need for special Shimano wrench.
But please DON'T be tempted by using a slip joint / Channelock plier.
Last edited by crank_addict; 04-15-20 at 06:46 AM.
04-15-20, 06:42 AM
#30
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I also like this lockring/headset tool from Hozan which has multiple uses:
04-15-20, 06:56 AM
#31
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Glad your laughing about this. I've found that, given the stresses on the HS (rough roads, rail crossings, potholes, curbs, wooden bridges, etc) it's best if you get the lock nut/top nut really tight. Or they loosen during use. Since the flats on the adj nut/top race and the top nut are so thin, there is great risk to the parts if you use loose fitting wrenches, yup you must have two. And since the process of getting them real tight may loosen the bearing clearance (backing the top race out even a degree or two) you'll likely need to do this two or three times until it's just right. IOW using two correct wrenches multiple times each time the HS is serviced.
I trust you have a good metric vernier caliper so you can measure the parts and know what size wrenches you need. Mm?
So, for the hex parts either purchase the right wrenches (you could need two of the same, ex: 36mm, or two sizes) or find a co-op with them. If you buy, buy good ones. Cheap/bargain wrenches will not fit snugly and will bend from the forces you need.
For the Shimano HS either purchase them or see if one of us will loan em. Anyone near by? Put out the call. Great coffee, fresh cinnamon rolls, and a pack of TP as a thanks.
I trust you have a good metric vernier caliper so you can measure the parts and know what size wrenches you need. Mm?
So, for the hex parts either purchase the right wrenches (you could need two of the same, ex: 36mm, or two sizes) or find a co-op with them. If you buy, buy good ones. Cheap/bargain wrenches will not fit snugly and will bend from the forces you need.
For the Shimano HS either purchase them or see if one of us will loan em. Anyone near by? Put out the call. Great coffee, fresh cinnamon rolls, and a pack of TP as a thanks.
I completely agree
Last edited by branko_76; 04-15-20 at 07:04 AM.
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04-15-20, 09:11 AM
#34
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Good call on the Headset wrenches from Poland. I have one of these headsets in my garage. $25 for peace of mind, I'm in.
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04-15-20, 12:44 PM
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Shimano's EX series headsets (i.e. scalloped) are designed so that they will also work with a standard 32mm headset wrench. However, the dedicated wrenches are far less prone to marring the headset as slippage is almost impossible. This eliminated the drawbacks for lighter, aluminum headsets and facilitated adjustment. It was a superior design, which cyclists did not appreciate.
I suppose advancement of tool design for threaded/quill steering is not exactly an industry priority.
04-15-20, 12:55 PM
#36
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Once you do the headset once, you'll feel comfortable doing it again, and it's maintenance you'll want to repeat. It would be worth spending a little money on that Shimano wrench if you can, and you can certainly sell the wrench later if you sell the bike or replace the headset. People like their Shimano headsets, so the market for the tool will probably be alive for a while.
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04-15-20, 01:17 PM
#37
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In most, but not all cases with a bike a single repair costs as much as the tool. In this case two adjustable wrenches may be something you already own. If not get some good ones because you'll use them over your lifetime.
04-15-20, 01:49 PM
#38
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About $18 (plus tax) for a thin wrench in size 32mm for use on the adjustable cup:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Park-Tool-H...ss!98103!US!-1
I use the HCW-15 which features the never used 36mm end, not the useful 15mm one as shown in the link.
You will also need an adjustable wrench for the locknut, some grease, and possibly bearings if you replace them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Park-Tool-H...ss!98103!US!-1
I use the HCW-15 which features the never used 36mm end, not the useful 15mm one as shown in the link.
You will also need an adjustable wrench for the locknut, some grease, and possibly bearings if you replace them.
04-15-20, 02:05 PM
#40
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I needed to get the fixed parts of a headset and BB removed in preparation for powder-coating my frame. I was charged $35 - half the cost of headset and BB overhaul. Yeah, I got ripped off, since they didn't have to disassemble anything. I'll probably spend my LBS money elsewhere from now on, if I can, but I spend very little at LBSes, so I'm not doing any great favor to the next guys.
In any case, around here, the headset overhaul is apparently $35, about twice the cost of the Park tool. The one problem I had was that I initially put the caged bearings in upside down. I easily saw I had a problem, since there were no threads available for screwing down the lock nut. It took me a long while to figure out what i had done wrong, though, which says something about my skill as a bike mechanic
. Even so, my headset seems pretty good - rotates without discernible friction or free play, nor do I feel or hear incorrect movement on the road.
I recommend doing it yourself.
In any case, around here, the headset overhaul is apparently $35, about twice the cost of the Park tool. The one problem I had was that I initially put the caged bearings in upside down. I easily saw I had a problem, since there were no threads available for screwing down the lock nut. It took me a long while to figure out what i had done wrong, though, which says something about my skill as a bike mechanic
. Even so, my headset seems pretty good - rotates without discernible friction or free play, nor do I feel or hear incorrect movement on the road.I recommend doing it yourself.
04-15-20, 02:14 PM
#41
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I think headsets are much easier than bottom brackets. I have tools for both and have done quite a few of them. Both of these are critical only because overtightening is common for those that don’t know better and it is fatal to the races. Other than that, it is pretty straight forward with the correct tools . I have a mix of Sugino, Park, and Campagnolo tools.
04-15-20, 02:18 PM
#42
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I'm curious as to whether that Shimano headset can be serviced since it says "Sealed Mechanism" right on it.
04-15-20, 02:26 PM
#43
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"sealed" does not necessarily mean cartridge bearings. Many cup and cone bearing hubs, BBs, headsets, pedals, were claimed to be sealed back then. What that meant was a moderately close fitting rubber or plastic seal rather than cartridge bearings. It's confusing today as that usage is no longer common, afaik.
04-15-20, 02:47 PM
#44
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I've serviced 600 headsets without marring them by wrapping the nuts with electrical tape and using adjustable wrenches.
04-15-20, 03:54 PM
#45
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What do you use on 1 1/8 headsets?
04-15-20, 04:11 PM
#46
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04-15-20, 04:51 PM
#47
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Shimano's EX series headsets (i.e. scalloped) are designed so that they will also work with a standard 32mm headset wrench. However, the dedicated wrenches are far less prone to marring the headset as slippage is almost impossible. This eliminated the drawbacks for lighter, aluminum headsets and facilitated adjustment. It was a superior design, which cyclists did not appreciate.
I agree the wrench provided the best adjustment available for those head sets. But what I found to be problematic with the design of the cups and cones of those was the very thin steel insert that broke down on the lower race that then led to dimpling of the inner race. Another pet PITA on those was the super thin o-ring for the seal on the lowest race that was supposed to keep debris out of the bearings. That o-ring almost immediately broke and was never to found again, and was not easily sourced. I've got one sitting in the archives that is a perfect example of that damage. JMHO, MH
04-15-20, 07:53 PM
#48
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/headset-wre...-/152738970081
04-15-20, 07:58 PM
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Sorry, I should have asked "what does _one_ on a 1 1/8" headset?" Dunno how it is elsewhere, but of the people I know locally who wrench on multiple bikes, esp C&V, I honestly can't think of a single one who has only serviced only road bikes. Maybe it's a midwest thing :shrug: .
04-15-20, 08:00 PM
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N.B., in a pinch a standard 32mm headset wrench will work on the scalloped Shimano parts, if you're careful.
